Buying First Saber: Quick Questions

[GamerGal]

Hey all!

I've been mulling over it for awhile now, and I've finally decided to purchase my very first lightsaber

I'm thinking of opting for a Lost Gray hilt in Sunrider's Destiny (LOVE that color). The thing is, this hue looks a bit weaker than the rest, and so, I have some questions that have been simmering in my mind as of late about blade brightness.

If I go emerald and choose either the RGBW or RGBA, could I potentially get a stronger color? Like, I know those are multi-color options but would they produce a richer color for this? Or would I be better off avoiding the emerald option? And does the type of 'battery configuration' choice make a difference?

I DO want clash on, and from what I read, if I go for that option I may get a slightly duller blade to compensate for the other color (in this case it's going to be white, and so I wonder if that will negate that previous qualm, cause I don't know if white is combined with another color to create SD in the first place?).

Sorry for my ignorance. I don't know anyone that personally handles these and I've never seen one in person. Total noob here.

Another question: Which type of blade is the brightest and which is the strongest?

Thank you for your time.

[Therion Jinn]

Brightest overall blade type would be the Ultra-Edge Mid-Grade.
As to your worries about brightness:
I have a Dark Catalyst in Sunrider's Destiny with Adegan Silver/white flash on clash, and it's no dimmer or brighter than any of my other sabers.
This includes my Guardian with the Emerald driver

[Racona Nova]

Emerald won't really affect brightness. SRD from Emerald will be as bright as a resistor setup. What affects brightness is
current. But this is limited, too high currents will blow your LED. You can try to use the 4th channel (W) to enhance SRD, but too much of it will again wash out the actual colour.

Battery setup only has an effect on the behaviour of low batteries. Resistor setups tend to shift the colour and fade out when batteries are low. BuckPucks will maintain the real colour and just shut down when power is critically low - no fading or colour shifting.

No, sabers with FoC aren't duller than those without. White is not used for mixing, SRD is made from 100% Blue and  resistored Green.

You can't really tell which blade is the brightest. The Mid Grades are thinner, so those may be slightly brighter than the Heavy Grades (which are the strongest blades - only use them with appropiate protection gear!). But I don't really notice a difference, and I have all kinds of blades - normal Mid Grade, UltraEdge Mid Grade, normal Heavy Grade and UltraEdge Heavy Grade. What I can tell you is that for SRD I personally recommend UltraEdge blades, as those give Blues and Greens and mixtures of them that extra kick. Reds should rather be used in normal Blades - in UltraEdge they tend to wash out too much.

[GamerGal]

Thanks guys for your comments - they have helped me make some vital decisions with my purchase.

I guess all there is left to do now is stand by and wait till it arrives. Again, thanks for clearing some things up for me!

[Therion Jinn]

Glad to be of help, GamerGal