Suggestion Box/Wishlist: what do we want from Ultrasabers?

[Darth Logos]

Lightwhips!

Also, if the reason UEHG blades tend to be dimmer is because it's a think semi opaque white plastic blade, why not just use tubing that is clear like a standard blad until it gets closer to the edge? Wouldn't that work?

HG blades are dimmer because they are thicker. And the UE are not opaque. If they were, no light would get through.

[lovetadraw]

I know that, I'm just saying that if it were clear plastic on the inside and then was the UE material, I'd think the UEHG wouldn't lose some of its luminosity.

[Rapine]

In all fairness lovetadraw did say SEMI opaque.  Lightwhips though?  Just nope. Ugh! All kinds of nope...lol

Just an observation.

DS point to you both.

[Darth Logos]

In all fairness lovetadraw did say SEMI opaque.  Lightwhips though?  Just nope. Ugh! All kinds of nope...lol

Just an observation.

DS point to you both.

Missed that unattached "semi-" PREFIX. ~¿~

But to answer LTD's question and apologize for being curt, the other option is just a standard HG blade. It uses the same clear plastic blade stock that the standard blade plugs use. (At least the use to use. Not sure if they still do.)

[lovetadraw]

Well I'm just trying to imagine a way that you could have an UE blade in heavy without the loss of light/saturation associated with that. Something like that could be nice for the Archon v3 since that needs a heavy grade blade and isn't as bright to begin with so most people I've seen opt for the standard blade over UE. I dunno, just trying to think outside the box. I bet layering the plastic material would be hard though.  Anyway, next topic!

[Rapine]

Well I'm just trying to imagine a way that you could have an UE blade in heavy without the loss of light/saturation associated with that. Something like that could be nice for the Archon v3 since that needs a heavy grade blade and isn't as bright to begin with so most people I've seen opt for the standard blade over UE. I dunno, just trying to think outside the box. I bet layering the plastic material would be hard though.  Anyway, next topic!

I like your thinking man.  Perhaps dipping into a liquid?? A coating?

-1 for good thinkin' lovetadraw.

[Darth Logos]

Well I'm just trying to imagine a way that you could have an UE blade in heavy without the loss of light/saturation associated with that. Something like that could be nice for the Archon v3 since that needs a heavy grade blade and isn't as bright to begin with so most people I've seen opt for the standard blade over UE. I dunno, just trying to think outside the box. I bet layering the plastic material would be hard though.  Anyway, next topic!

My one and only UEHG came with my Mantis. Other than the fact you can visibly see the difference in wall thickness when illuminated, I thought the difference in brightness was negligible.

[Zren Tobas]

Plo Koon/Kit Fisto inspired saber design? I know that's probably a lot in the old Rattlesnake saber but it'd be a cool new one to do

[BlindJedi]

I came up with a new idea for US that would be an all in one electronic solution.
My idea is to have all of the electronics in one cylindrical package.  This includes the LED module, Emerald driver, Obsidion sound board, battery pack and speaker.
This device could slide in from the top or bottom of the saber, depending on how US would implement my idea.  The speaker would be covered by a grill, kind of like what is typically found on a shotgun microphone, the Emerald, and Obsidion would be accessed via one connection.  The batteries would be removable, but could also be charged inside the device.  Simply remove the entire device from the saber hilt and put it on the charger.  This is great if you want to have several sound fonts on one device, and several others on another device.
How does the switch work in my idea, I can hear some of you asking.  Well, it has a unique connection to the device.  On one side of the device there is a channel cut into the side of it, with a connection along its center, and another connection along one edge of the channel.  The activation button will have a knob on it that fits into the channel completing the circuit between the two connections.  The knob would resemble a light bulb connector, in that it has one connection on the tip, and one on the edge.
This device would allow the sabers to be more interchangeable, and would allow the saber builders out there to use US electronics in custom builds, without having any electronic skills what so ever.
Simply install the switch into your custom build, and slide the electronic device into the hilt and secure it with a tention screw.  Simple as pie.

[Lord Sidious]

^ The idea of a core chassis is and has been used before. There are many advantages as you said. That's how cars are designed and manufactured based on a chassis for many model lineups. For sabers that are quite different from each other, usually due to size and shape, such as a curved saber or a large cross guard or a larger hilt in general compared with the smaller entry models, then you would need more than one chassis. Still, there are advantages to having a few chassis and so any hilt can be used to house it. A further advantage is if the electronics fail, then only the chassis need to be sent back or attended to. Without one, the process of removing the electronics out of the hilt etc. can be more challenging unless one is a skilled technician.

[lovetadraw]

I was looking into getting a Flamberge at some point for my Kylo Ren costume but I feel like it's not really a good fit without the flicker that you can get from an Emerald Driver, but that doesn't work for the crossblades; not the flicker, nor the color. I wonder if they could make a version/upgrade that has all 3 blades get their light from a single led module. In a sense, the way the actual Kylo saber works. Thoughts? Would it be too dim? Can't be much worse than a windowed emitter? Or would it?

[shade_1313]

I was looking into getting a Flamberge at some point for my Kylo Ren costume but I feel like it's not really a good fit without the flicker that you can get from an Emerald Driver, but that doesn't work for the crossblades; not the flicker, nor the color. I wonder if they could make a version/upgrade that has all 3 blades get their light from a single led module. In a sense, the way the actual Kylo saber works. Thoughts? Would it be too dim? Can't be much worse than a windowed emitter? Or would it?

See my post on this page of the (im)patient waiting thread:  http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=1403.6915

In short, yes, you can do the flicker, yes, you can do the color.  In fact, you can do LOTS of colors, including straight BR.  And get it to flicker.  Just think of the flicker as less a matter of changing colors, more a matter of changing brightness.

As for the split LED light idea, you might be able to come up with something with a mid-crossguard mirror/prism arrangement, but I think it'd be pretty unsatisfactory and not worth it.

[Racona Nova]

I can't remember where I read this, but with a clever layout and wiring, you could evne use the Emerald Driver on the side blades, too. It would become very tight in there, but it's said to be possible. Difficult, but possible.

As it is, shade's suggestion is absolutely sufficient for the flicker effect! Have it dedicated to Ch4 and just change the brightness equally on all blades for the second colour - that gives you the desired effect.

[lovetadraw]

Oh, so you can change the brightness pulse on an Emerald Flamberg at least? That's good to know. It's a shame they discontinued the 2 channel Drivers, that'd have been a cheep way to have Emerald when (in my case) i'd mostly only want it red.

[Racona Nova]

Yes, changes in brightness are possible, but not colour changing. And it's really a pity that they cancelled the 2-ch Drivers...as well as the "In Series" options for both the AV switch and (in case of the crossguard sabers) the side blades...