SE vs. CE Hilt

[WaywardWookie]

Hello,

I have been considering getting an emerald saber.  I am considering

CHOSEN ONE SE WITH SOUND (EMERALD)
Our Price: $439.00

or

CHOSEN ONE CE WITH SOUND (EMERALD)
Our Price: $464.00

I am unclear on what the differences are.  Can someone offer some insight into the advantages and disadvantages?  What does CE mean?  What does SE? mean?  Is it worth the extra $25?

[Lord Bladewraith]

CE is the nickel finish. SE is the high polished aluminum finish.  That is the only difference.

The CE is so worth the extra $25.  I have the Graflex, the Guardian and the Consular, all with the Nickel Finish, and they're gorgeous. The nickel finish has a smoky gloss to it that really elevates the overall appearance of the saber.

[Darth Blightus]

CE- collectors edition
SE-special edition
like lord bladewraith said
the only difference id the finish
basically the ce (with nickel finish) looks more shiny but its easily ruined if scratched its better as a shelf queen or gentle play. its worth it if you like it
if you plan on playing rough i suggest SE. it may not be as shiny but its still pretty cool and if you want to save 25$. i chose a graflex as SE

[CyberKyber]

Hello,

I have been considering getting an emerald saber.  I am considering

CHOSEN ONE SE WITH SOUND (EMERALD)
Our Price: $439.00

or

CHOSEN ONE CE WITH SOUND (EMERALD)
Our Price: $464.00

I am unclear on what the differences are.  Can someone offer some insight into the advantages and disadvantages?  What does CE mean?  What does SE? mean?  Is it worth the extra $25?

Hey there, WaywardWookie! (love your username XD)

Well, to start off, SE stands for Special Edition and CE stands for Collector's Edition. The physical difference is that SE looks much more silver, much lighter, while CE looks darker, still as shiny though (if not more). Now, SE is polished aluminum, which is why it has that characteristic silver colour, and CE is the same, but with a nickel plating. The nickel plating slightly protects the saber from abrasion and corrosion, and also gives it a more regular/even look, less easy to scratch. Compared to nickel plating, SE/high polished aluminum looks shinier to start with, but gets dull and scratched more easily. Honestly, both options are great, the Chosen One is a great saber. I got mine in CE purely because I did not have a CE saber before. I do not regret getting the CE, but I'm pretty sure I would have been as happy to get the SE.
Honestly, regarding which one is better, it's entirely up to you. Some people say that CE looks more realistic, close to what a real lightsaber would look like, but I don't necessarily agree with that. Just to be clear, none of those options are chrome plated, so no chance of seeing your reflection on your saber, which would be the coolest thing XD

Is it worth the extra $25? If you like CE, absolutely, but the problem is you won't know if you like it (or prefer it over the normal SE finish) until you get it. I'm pretty sure SE is more of a standard look. Anyone, please feel free to add to what I've said or correct anything, but I'm pretty sure I've covered most of it...

[CyberKyber]

like lord bladewraith said
the only difference id the finish
basically the ce (with nickel finish) looks more shiny but its easily ruined if scratched its better as a shelf queen or gentle play. its worth it if you like it
if you plan on playing rough i suggest SE. it may not be as shiny but its still pretty cool. i chose a graflex as SE

Really? I thought CE would be more scratch resistant than SE due to the nickel plating... And shininess, I'm pretty sure my Graflex SE looks more silvery/shiny than my Chosen One CE, my CE looks more like matte... What am I missing? XD

[Darth Blightus]

Really? I thought CE would be more scratch resistant than SE due to the nickel plating... And shininess, I'm pretty sure my Graflex SE looks more silvery/shiny than my Chosen One CE, my CE looks more like matte... What am I missing? XD

CE may be scratch resistant but it still leaves marks which can mess up the look
and yes CE is the more shiny.

[CyberKyber]

CE may be scratch resistant but it still leaves marks which can mess up the look
and yes CE is the more shiny.

Hmmm, so the plating may come of when scratched... Too bad. Still looks great though!

[Lord Bladewraith]

MAAS metal polish, the stuff that Ultra Sabers uses themselves in the shop, will rub out many superficial scratches and keep'em shiny.  I bought a mini tub of it from Amazon and use it all the time.  Good stuff to keep your sabers, especially the CE versions, looking purdy.

[Darth Blightus]

well it wont come off CyberKyber
it just wont look as good and sleek any more
and i agree with LB about polish but youll be spending more for the CE than just 25$ if you want to keep it good condition

[CyberKyber]

well it wont come off CyberKyber
it just wont look as good and sleek any more
and i agree with LB about polish but youll be spending more for the CE than just 25$ if you want to keep it good condition

Fair enough, I'm keeping my Chosen One CE as a shelf queen anyway XD

MAAS metal polish, the stuff that Ultra Sabers uses themselves in the shop, will rub out many superficial scratches and keep'em shiny.  I bought a mini tub of it from Amazon and use it all the time.  Good stuff to keep your sabers, especially the CE versions, looking purdy.

Ooooh, I'm going to get me some of that!

[Darth Blightus]

its funny
i once thought SE meant "special edition"
then i saw some videos of people say SE meant standard edition
after watching emory's video i now know it definitely means special
im more happy about my SE graflex

[Darth Blightus]

Fair enough, I'm keeping my Chosen One CE as a shelf queen anyway XD

CE does mean COLLECTOR'S edition
enjoy your queen

[Lord Bladewraith]

Ooooh, I'm going to get me some of that!

Something else I've used, and this idea came from The Custom Saber Shop, they have a video about it on their site, is to very, very lightly lubricate the threads for the emitter and pommel on the inside of the hilt. I use Penzoil Wheel Ball Bearing Red Grease for mine.  The emitter and pommel unscrew from the hilt so smoothly after just lightly lubricating the threads of the hilt.

[CyberKyber]

Something else I've used, and this idea came from The Custom Saber Shop, they have a video about it on their site, is to very, very lightly lubricate the threads for the emitter and pommel on the inside of the hilt. I use Penzoil Wheel Ball Bearing Red Grease for mine.  The emitter and pommel unscrew from the hilt so smoothly after just lightly lubricating the threads of the hilt.

So... I got some saber parts from another Saber shop here in Spain to make my own custom saber (the argonaut, as listed in my saber list xD), and I was 95% successful. That 5%... You know how you said lubricating the threading of the parts would make it better? These HAD to be lubricated. I didn't know this, so when I screwed the pommel for the first time... It would unscrew itself anymore. I had to end up putting it in the freezer for a while and finally was able to take it apart. I then used OLIVE OIL to lubricate the parts XD Needless to say, extremely ghetto, but it worked, so I'm sure specialized lubricant would make it so much better XD

[Lord Bladewraith]

So... I got some saber parts from another Saber shop here in Spain to make my own custom saber (the argonaut, as listed in my saber list xD), and I was 95% successful. That 5%... You know how you said lubricating the threading of the parts would make it better? These HAD to be lubricated. I didn't know this, so when I screwed the pommel for the first time... It would unscrew itself anymore. I had to end up putting it in the freezer for a while and finally was able to take it apart. I then used OLIVE OIL to lubricate the parts XD Needless to say, extremely ghetto, but it worked, so I'm sure specialized lubricant would make it so much better XD

Ouch!    Glad you figured something out that would work for ya. Pretty stressful moment I'm sure. I never want to experience that