How To: A Quick Recharge Port DIY

[Niassa]

Please note: If you are not proficient with soldering, working with electricity, and Li-Ion batteries*, do not attempt this mod. I, Ultrasabers, this community, and the Force are not responsible if you destroy your saber, hurt yourself or others, burn down your house, or, well, anything else horrible! The only thing I'll be responsible for is if you successfully mod your saber in the manner described herein based on these instructions.   Performing this modification WILL void any warranty your saber has with US.

There are numerous soldering tutorials on YouTube and the Interwebs. You should also be sure to heat shrink all your connections, because again, a shorting out Li-Ion pack is a very dangerous thing. Electrical tape is NOT sufficient, it WILL fall apart after a certain amount of time.

Good luck, and may the Force be with you.

(*Lithium Ion batteries, moreso than other types of rechargeable batteries, are EXTREMELY DANGEROUS if mishandled. These batteries will rapidly overheat and may even EXPLODE if shorted out. Always remove the batteries from the battery pack while performing work!)



I believe I labeled everything important, and even unimportant, if I'm correct. QD stands for Quick Disconnect, which you'll probably need just to get your saber back together once this mod is done.

[Master Bluespike74]

Thank you very much for this information.  I have just begun today a sink tube project and I was wanting to include a recharge port and this will help tremendously. 

[Niassa]

Thank you very much for this information.  I have just begun today a sink tube project and I was wanting to include a recharge port and this will help tremendously. 

Most welcome!

[Darth Karhu]

So here's a question, how would this change if I wanted to use a 4 wire 1000mAh buck-puck with the recharge port instead of a resistor, and how would I wire an illuminated switch into the works here? (Thanks in advance for any help you're able to offer)

[Ninja-Jedi]

The wiring diagram would be almost exacty the same except you lose the resistor, and the buck puck would wire directly to you led+ after the switch  and and the other led- basically if you are looking at the diagram the buck would wire where the led is at on the diagram, the you would just wire the led directly to the buck puck

[Ninja-Jedi]

to run illuminated switch u just run an extra set of lines of your led- and led+ and you need to resistor the led on the switch itself I would wire this in before the buck puck, their are diagrams out their already just treat the led on the switch as you would an accent led