Here the first bits of the Graflite so far:
| <![CDATA[<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWIcj9Xqu54" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWIcj9Xqu54</a>]]> |
| <![CDATA[<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkHAeGFbmaw" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkHAeGFbmaw</a>]]> |
| <![CDATA[<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b69x20oUN8E" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b69x20oUN8E</a>]]> |
Some things to note are that I have heard some in posts from 2008 and 2009 archived threads from web sites no longer in operation stating that the Graflite is hard to turn into a lightsaber and that it is flimsy. It is neither. I used some Schedule 40 1" I.D. about 4 inches long and wrapped with Black Duct Tape to use as a blade holder, an LED holder (the US regular LED unit fits nicely there), and added strength and weight to the project. The Black Duct Tape helps by adding strength to the internals of the hilt as well as keeping the PVC in place. The color looks great coming from the former plug in holes on the Graflite.
If anyone is wanting to go the prop route with this saber, it adds a little finishing touch to the look of the saber. If someone is going the stunt route, you can drill the plugs to create indicator lights for statuses of the saber since the markings will still be visible.
The PVC and duct tape also allowed me to reattach the original screws since the former internals were the nuts for these screws. A small pilot hole and then a little effort, they will grab into the PVC and tape and hold parts fast.
I used a brass threaded furniture insert I acquired from Lowe's and placed in the old knob hole of the black switch unit. This will allow me to adequately use any blade retention screw that I wish and it will remain hidden from site. The ones sold here on US work effectively as well.
On the 90 degree attachment, there were two silver thumb screws. These screws are also 8-32 threads and just long enough to reach inside the knob hole and attach to the insert. Now the retention screw is hidden and you have a very unique look "prophecy" style look to the saber.
The PVC and tape made it impossible to place the red button back into the former hole as it arrived to me. It was simply a piece of red plastic that pushed a button on the internals and was not a button in its own right. I did learn that if you take the button and switch it around, it will fit into it's former slot with zero movement and gives another unique appearance to the saber. It is pure decoration at this point and will serve zero function on the finished product.
My next stages will be grips, covertech knob or D-ring, emitter shroud, and activation box. I have found a really unique activation box that will look like the movies, clamp into place, but still have some open spots for installing switches and buttons.
Don't know whether I want to use a D-ring or Covertech knob though. I have heard a rumor that there exists a product that allows one to use a D-ring or Covertech knob saber for a single belt clip. I am still searching on that one as the post was an archive from 2 years ago.
If anyone has any questions on the videos, please let me know.
Blue
@Ben. I love the look of that flash. It is sad that it will not be sound capable as I would so want to hear the Yoda battle cry from his fight with Dooku in Ep2 as a font. Please keep me updated on your progress.
