Saber Forum

Hey everyone, I ordered an Aeon in the mail, (Along with a Dominix V2, they go really well together) and was wanting to make it look a little less plain. Having some experience with firearms the thing that popped into my mind is Blueing. How else would you make an awesome silver saber have a little more contrast then with a few black (Blued) accents?

My big questions are can this be done, and has it been done. It is not expensive at all for a cold blueing kit, and It would seem to work (However on aluminum, I'm not sure) But it could really add that difference and look that some people want in their sabers? Something I want in MY sabers?

So are there any "Blued" Ultra Sabers out there? And if not, Does anyone with any blueing experience know if this could work (On a small scale, as cold blue i hear is not consistent) This seems to be the best way I can think of without painting your sabers (I plan on doing a lot of dueling and stage combat, so paint is a no go)

Thanks!
-Tek

You mean blue finished? Just get some blue anodizing. They have it. Not sure if Deep would share where he gets it though. Or if you want, just go for a Grab Bag. You might get a blue Liberator or Standard Issue though.

No, that's not what he's talking about at all. He's talking about bluing, not blue anodizing.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel))

I've never heard of it being done to a saber, but I think somebody needs to get a grab bag and try it out :)

Yes it can be done. I have thought about it, there is some technique involved and I don't know if aluminum blues very well.

To respond, I have done some digging, and Blueing only works on steel, so that is out of the question. The only things I can find are parkerizing or Anodizing and I don't want to deal with electro plating and strong acids at my house. Also, I woulden't do the whole saber anyway! Just maybe every other ring and the grooves in the hilt, so my search is still on.

So if I wanted to strip my steel saber down and do it, I could...

you could indeed

Hooray for having the somewhat rare steel saber!

Powder coating is another option. I know you can buy it and use your oven to bake it. A professionally done powder coat is almost as good as porcelain. It might take some practice to get it right, but it is cheap.

i started a post about a while back and i was told that Birchwood Casey Aluma Black will work on aluminum but it will take some practice. i was wanting to do it to my prophecy but i never got around to it.

I looked into that Aluma Black, people don't seem to like it. But I think I may have found what I will do.

Plasti dip. You can spray it on, and the best part, is that if you don't like the look, you can just peel it off. People use it on cars, and it lasts a long time, and for around $10 a bottle, you can do quite a lot of it for your sabers. I think I may try it, especially for that cost. Because I don't want to do the whole thing, It will be perfect.

What do you guys think? Anyone ever heard of plasti dip?

I mean you're looking at a conversion coating process, not unlike anodizing, so I don't see why it wouldn't be possible.  Dunno what you'd need for it though...

Plasti dip was recommended to me for my monkey stick once. I was never able to get any though and forgot about it. Point to you for reminding me. I have not used it however.

 Actually there is a couple of techniques out there to blacken aluminum,you have to expose fresh metal before using aluma black, aluuminum corrodes quickly & forms a protective layer (the black stuff on your hands after playing with your saber)if you sand the metal to remove the layer aluma black will work well. to get the same effect as a nice blued steel rifle isnt possible with aluminum unless of course you go with a black electro plate($$$$$). The technique that I would use to chemically blacken a hilt without destroying your house or alot of nasty fumes would be to use a caustic soda soak (drain cleaner AKA Lye).. let the metal pit a small amount , rinse it in cold water very well (& use rubber gloves in a garage or outside)& then soak the part in birchwood casey aluma black, the part will hold the color well with this technique. to keep it looking good, a bit of oil on occasion , or if you want it shiny, a clear coat of either spray on enamel clear or a clear powder-coat (this is one of the tricks the high end smith's are using SShhhhh! dont tell anyone!!! ;D

Anyone ever try bead blasting one to see how that turned out?  My father in law used to have access to a cabinet at his work and took a couple of his stainless pistols (he worked at a steel mill and all the guys were into guns so it was very lax and acceptable to do so) that he had stripped down and it gave them a really cool looking finish.  Wonder how that would work on aluminum...

That sounds like it would be good for the whole hilt, but I'm really only looking to add some accents to my Aeon. xD If I wanted a second dominix V2 I Would have ordered it. lol But this sounds like it would work, prep work and all. I assume I could tape off the parts I don't want to be coated? Maybe? I doubt it now that I think about it.

Aluma Black seems to be the big hitter, and its pretty cheap. I don't want to destroy my hilt though. Thats the thing.

Arioch, I know how bead blasting looks on knives (Beautiful finish) but I don't know how It would look (Or feel) on large pieces of aluminum. Here is a picture I dug up online, with what looks to be un-touched aluminum (After milling) and then bead blasted. I think for components in the future (Such as pieces of the hilt, like on the Consular)

At the community college I took my machinist classes at we had a matte finisher, and a polishing wheel. I really like an alternating matte finish on polished aluminum. It was a like a regular sandblasting cabinet but the grit is very light. It would only take a few thousands of an inch off the surface. I will try and get a picture. Plain aluminum is a bit...plain.

Anyone try epoxy paint?

yep, black electrical tape works for keeping the caustic soda and aluma black off of the part