Custom Switch for Fulcrum?

[Lord Menace]

Has anyone designed or fabricated a custom activation switch for the Fulcrum?  I am looking for something that would basically be flush or slightly countersunk with the rest of the hilt instead of extruded/beveled out.

Thank you! 

[Isola815]

Has anyone designed or fabricated a custom activation switch for the Fulcrum?  I am looking for something that would basically be flush or slightly countersunk with the rest of the hilt instead of extruded/beveled out.

Thank you! 

That could be easily done with a tactile keyboard switch and a blank or cap to put on top as long as it's a saber with sound.

I would suggest getting the saber with the standard guarded switch so you only have a 12mm hole to deal with. Get yourself one of these guys in a 12mm x 12mm size with the correct length button for your purposes







Modify the hole slightly to fit a square switch or using some long pliers hot glue it from inside. Then put whatever color cap on it







or make/purchase a small metal blank much like the one I put on this Prophecy (Just don't weather it like mine  )






A latching switch could also be done if you don't have sound, but it would require a bit more work as it would have a longer travel distance up and down compared to a tactile switch.

[Lord Menace]

I really appreciate the information so far, not bad.  thanks

just a bit more information though, the fulcrum switch is unlike any other i've seen in the ultrasaber line...






I was thinking more disassembling the current activation switch from the block (not sure what else to call it) and 3d print in plastic (or have it machined) a much "flatter" and curved to match the diameter of the hilt...

Thoughts?

[Lord Menace]

this piece

[Isola815]

I thought you meant you wanted to ditch the box completely and make a switch on the hilt when you said "flush or recessed". I misunderstood, sorry.

If you want to 3D print something you can go nuts and only your imagination and budget will stop you then.

you could also just use the box that's on it and shave it down to the size you want, and reshape the bottom curve to fit the hilt. You could probably take it down to a quarter inch in the center and run it to an eighth or less out to the edges. Or you could go crazy and mount the switch in the hilt, then take the box down to being flush on the edges with the hilt, ramping up to a sixteenth or so in the center, making it sit over the switch and recess it.

Depends how good your metal skills and patience are.

[Lord Menace]

I am going to be honest, my skills are non-existent.

I'd be willing to commission the work to fabricate a new plate if someone could recommend a good smith.  I just want it done in a way that it can be reversed. (i.e. unscrew current plate, remove center switch, place center switch in new plate, screw back on.)

Thoughts or ideas?

[Isola815]

I am going to be honest, my skills are non-existent.

I'd be willing to commission the work to fabricate a new plate if someone could recommend a good smith.  I just want it done in a way that it can be reversed. (i.e. unscrew current plate, remove center switch, place center switch in new plate, screw back on.)

Thoughts or ideas?

If you don't want irreversible modifications, I am not your man. I work on a "let's see if it blows up" policy. I do destructive mods. Danger is not my middle name, but I have had brief relations with such a mistress. Until I modified her.

[Rapine]

I am going to be honest, my skills are non-existent.

I'd be willing to commission the work to fabricate a new plate if someone could recommend a good smith.  I just want it done in a way that it can be reversed. (i.e. unscrew current plate, remove center switch, place center switch in new plate, screw back on.)

Thoughts or ideas?

Just omit the act box altogether?  

A switch and a bezel?

[Lord Menace]

"Bezel" is the word I am looking for.  And I think I have a bit of info from another post that helps a little.





I am cross linking a photo from "http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=34278.0", so thank you shade_1313

the right middle of the 1st photo is the hole where the switch goes.  I was under the impression the entire activation box was somewhat countersunk into the hilt, but it appears it is just a "circle"  with drilled northern/southern mount holes.

the middle of the 2nd photo shows the same hole through the activation box, hilt and inner hilt.  That would be important on designing how it will mount...

I am not 100% sure what diameter bevel I would need...

[Lord Menace]

This might work, right?

http://www.ultrasabers.com/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Stainless-Switch-P471.aspx

[Rapine]

That would be a 16mm AV hole.

Correct.  The activation box is its own entity, and is separate from the switch.

Omitting said box, and just using an AV switch (with bezel) is totally doable.  It would leave the screw holes for mounting the box behind though.

The "outer hilt" you refer to is referred to as a "shroud" mainly.

(links to TCSS redirect to US's homepage)

[Ginsu117]

I dont know about the fulcrum, but someone need to add this ejection seat style switch as an AV Switch, it would look so awesome.

[Lord Canterbury]

I've actually used those for custom lamps for my Nephews . . . been sitting on a couple for a while.



Pretty sure it won't fit as is in a saber - need to cut a section out the front and fit a roomy Activation Box over it for depth.  Also needs to be a Stunt - or use a Latching to Momentary converter.

But yes, I've contemplated this one!  Some day . . .

[JLink]

You're the only one I've seen take the Fulcrum apart, out of curiosity, is the emitter part mhs compatible?