Saber Forum

Hi everyone.  Just wanted to say this forum is awesome, and the info has been great so far!  :)

I am a repeat customer of Ultrasabers (I have 3 US sabers with a variety of other spare parts).  I have built 3 MHS sabers to date (2 stunt, one with sound).  I have a spare hilt and I recently purchased the Obsidian board to put inside the spare hilt.

I recently purchased another Ultrasaber and at the same time I bought the new soundboard and all the parts for this build:  Obsidian board, single cell Trustfire 3.7, Cyan Rebel star 3.4V, momentary AV switch (non LED, so I don't need to worry about a resistor) and a speaker / holder, along with a simple chassis I have made.

I was wondering if someone could please double check this diagram for me?  I based it off the diagram in the wiring forum, but since this is a new board and I really don't want to fry it - I would much appreciate it if someone reviewed it for me.  I couldn't really tell from the diagram in the wiring forum which way the harness was facing.  This is more of a visual "this is how my wires would be laid out" style of diagram.  :)  Thanks in advance!

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3026/5855181784_19cdfc340e_z.jpg)

Did I miss something?  The photo is marked as "unavailable"...

Hmmm... that's weird, I can see it on my computer.

How about this link?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3026/5855181784_b02639cb4c_o.jpg (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3026/5855181784_b02639cb4c_o.jpg)

I see it now. lol.

Seems to look okay.

And you will not fry the board at 3.7V. The worst that will happen is that it won't turn on, or either light or sound won't work if something was wired wrong.

Confirmed, I can now see it too, Panda.  :)  Thanks--you fixed whatever was wrong.

BTW, also confirmed: your wiring looks 100% legit.  :)

I'm actually starting to (hopefully?) begin a standard to call those pins 1-6, maybe actually going "horizontally" in pairs... like:

1   2
3   4
5   6

...which hopefully makes sense to people.

This is only partially correct.  As with almost ANY board (PC, CF, MR, blah blah blah)... reverse polarity will destroy the entire board, or at least--destroy components on the board.

That being said--again--Panda's wiring is 100% correct.  But yes... like with ANY board--you CAN fry it.  If people accidentally "swap" what I am labeling pins 5 & 6, you are in a world of hurt.  Same as if you did that with CF.

Bottom line is... for folks wiring... DO NOT connect the batteries until you're 100% certain of your wiring.  And most importantly, DO NOT swap + and -, lol.

Thanks Novastar, Caine and everyone for the feedback!

Novastar, I think numbering the wires in the socket pins would be a great idea.  If you look at the socket and the colored wires coming out, the wires are colored but do not match the polarity of what they are meant to be soldered to.  Compare the photo of actual Obsidian board with my visual wiring diagram.  The colors don't correspond.  I think the proper colored wires should be used, or they should be all black and a pin numbering system supplied so that people can wire them correctly.

Just want to help new customers avoid confusion in installing new boards if they purchase them.

(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5150/5864322227_cd194c0cfe_z.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3026/5855181784_19cdfc340e_z.jpg)

Panda... you're absolutely correct--the wiring harnesses currently being sold in the store may not correspond to how you want to label things, as... you have only red & black wires with which to deal, and some of them can't be connected "correctly" according to the polarity that we assume with red vs. black.

In the future, my recommendations are for DIYers (and Emory + his workers) to approach things as follows:
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=1639.0 (http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=1639.0)

If everyone starts using SOME kind of standard practice with the colored wires and pin setups... there will hardly EVER be any confusion about anyone's wiring... not to mention, you'll be able to "swap out boards" in your saber super super easily, and you should also be able to do so from saber to saber (even one that ISN'T YOUR OWN!)... and in general--it's just a good idea.

Sure, I could say--people can wire however they darn well choose... and you shouldn't be doing a DIY install of the board if you don't know what you're doing... but still.  A note to everyone: do yourself and everyone a favor folks--let's try to set a SMART standard for wiring.

Panda, if it makes it easier to visualize, you can remove the connectors and orient them to match the polarity.

Thanks Ultra!  I didn't realize the plugs came off.  I tried to do that but when I re-arranged them, the spacing didn't quite work and I was squeamish about bending the connection points on the board.

It's OK, I used the wiring diagram and got confirmation from everyone here and the board works great!  Starting a new thread showing the install.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

thread revival  ::)
great diagrams and pix
complete novice here, took apart my recently bought 2003 fx ob1, after seeing all the wiring involved with ignitors/cf etc was a little worried till i came across the obsidian board inside the hilt and its plug and play,wow awesome, looking forward to downloading and plugging it in to change fonts,