Saber Forum

Hi guys

THeres a particular opponent in my saber dueling club that I'm having trouble up against. None of the tactics i do seem to be working

little bit of stats on him.
hes on the taller side, has longer arms.  Theres a particular move he always gets me with, where he just raises his arm a bit, saber diagonally pointed down, and lunges in. When I asked him why it is that I cant seem to last against him, he says I keep doing the same move, though I think its more than that since other attempts have failed. In addition, in part thanks to his heavy-grade saber, he has great strength.
WHen I duel one-handed, my strikes against him get batted out of the way if he even slightly touches my blade, and he will frequently power through my own blocks. when I go two handed,though, I get quickly beaten by his range.

Can anyone help me out? I really need to find a way to beat him outside of luck.
Thanks, I appreciate it, m8s
(note, no stabs nor strikes above shoulders are allowed at my dueling club, just FYI)

 "he says I keep doing the same move"

So set him up by starting that move and then switch to something else.
Other option is that if he is bigger than you, try to wear him down. block all his attacks and wait for him to get tired, then strike.

I have done that first point before. I have tried tricking him into thinking I'm doing a certain strike, then change strikes. Problem is, this yields mixed results, since even though he is large, he has quick reflexes and seems to read my moves easily. Typically, this just results in both us dying at once.

in response to your other idea, while its a good point, I dont know if itll work. As I said in my first post, he has enough strength (combining his strength, heavier hilt, and heavy-grade blade) to blow past my blocks (not so strong, mid-grade blade)even when I'm two handing.

(I do thank you for your response. Imma try to give you light side points for it.)

Have you been able to view him in duels with others? Plus, are you allowed to video record your duels, so you can see what moves you do vs his? There's no easy counter to a longer reach, especially if they have good stamina and blade control.

Also, is there anyone in your dueling club you can practice with and learn from (if not from your nemesis) so you can get better? If you have a signature move, you have to unlearn that move because he knows how to counter it.

I'm not sure if you can pull it off (as I don't know if that technique is allowed in your club), but I would try a Krumphau to your opponents blade/hands (to counter the attack) followed with an Oberhau to his upper body.

I think this video might explain it a bit:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UtiffQ67GE# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UtiffQ67GE#)

This is a good strategy, I can see the validity in this. However, there are two problems with this that I noticed almost right off the bat.
1) in the vid, it appears that the end target is shoulders or high torso. I mentioned in a footnote in my first post that the NO-Zones for my group include everything apove armpits. This includes neck and shoulders, but does not include higher up on the arms. Perhaps I would have to do a modified version of this.
2) Since I only have midgrade blades, and that my nemesis uses a heavy, doing the move where I bang his saber down will risk breaking my own blade (though I do have more than one blade, for this purpose). Additionally, my saber club is very, um, particular in how hard we can strike, and will call me out for hitting too hard. Considering that I would have to put considerable force on my opponents blade for this to work, all things considered, Id say this is a "high-risk, high-reward" approach, if you will.

(I do appreciate these suggestions. Ill at least give them a try).

I guessed that much. With my HEMA protection gear hits to shoulder & head are quite valid ;)  
-> We practiced doing a Krumphau on the opponents blade and then immediately go to the head when pulling the sword upwards again.

In general it should be no issue, though, to target lower areas in your counterattack. Perhaps with a second sidestep and pulling your saber horizontal across your opponents stomach? It probably won't hurt much but still counts as a deadly hit, right?


Well, if you manage to break your blade (even a mid grade), please tell us -> AFAIK you would be the very first one to pull that off ;D
Yes, the tip of the blade might pop off, but that can be fixed with some gorilla glue. But I'd say you have to abuse your blade very much (e.g. sparring vs metal weapons) to wear it down so much it'll break...


Well, you have to experiment a bit ;)  The main purpose of this is to 'cancel' the threat of you opponent (by preventing him from hitting you & maybe getting him slightly off-balance), so using less force still might provide you an opening for your counter-attack.


Have fun and good luck ;D !

I'm starting to like this discussion, please don't mind me reading along.

Master Greywolf, thank you for sharing that video. It's actually a HEMA-take on a TCC technique I''m exploring.

I actually DID manage to break a midgrade blade once, though not against the opponent I've described. I was using a loaned-out saber (I didn't bring my own that day), and somehow managed to snap a 32'' blade when dueling someone. I think Its because I did a hard hit (though not sledgehammer-hard) against the bottom of my opponents own midgrade blade, just right on the border of the PC and metal hilt., it tore the film, bent it back, and cut the remaining good part of the blade to like 24''.

Coming back from that anecdote, I would doubt Id be able to truly "stagger" my nemesis, since, as I said before, he is a physically larger and stronger opponent (at least, compared to me) with good blade control.
To this end, Im not sure about the strike across the chest part, since once he sees what I'm doing, he'll probably apply force back up on my blade, nullifiying my attack and causing me to stab him and die (yes, if we stab, its considered a death on us).

Breaking a mid-grade blade isn't common, but it's not unheard of either. Usually they crack or over flex, rather than outright break.


First, you dying if you execute a stab is silly.

Second, get a Heavy Grade blade for your saber, so you're not worried about how hard you hit (within the limits of your club).

Questions:
When he "lunges in", where is his attack landing?
Is he using one or two hands?
What blade lengths are you and he using?
What hilt length are you using?
How much space do you have to work in?
What are the rules on using two sabers?
How low can you strike? Knees?

Sakura No Kaze dying by stabs may sound silly, but considering we don't wear any real protection except gloves (and since apparently someone got broken ribs from a stab), Id say its necessary. Im starting to regret not getting a heavy grade, but at the time I got my sabers, I was trying to focus on improving one-handed dueling first and particular opponents later.
To answer your questions:
-when he "lunges" in, since he's batted my strike out of the way, he often hits my exposed arm. If not, he hits my upper torso.
-when he does these strikes, its with one hand, though he blocks with either two hands (when he's using crossguard saber) or one (when using either standard single or crossguard).
-We use the same blade lengths (36inch). But his reach and hilts (his crossguard is a longer hilt than mine, though his hilt is NOT from ultrasabers) makes the blade lengths not much of a factor.
-my hilt length is 12.375 in (I use a Dominix v4, LE or standard). His are like 13 or 14, depending on which saber hilt.
- we practice on an open field, so I don't think spacing is a real factor.
-We can theoretically use two sabers. However, neither I nor my nemesis use two. This is because my club mandates us to have been trained and approved by officers before we can use 'exotic' forms (saber staffing, two-sabers, crossguard, pike, etc.) beside one or two handed single blade. Neither of us have been approved for two sabers yet, even though he's been at my saber club like a year longer than me.
-we can strike as low as we want except for feet (not legs, just the actual feet) and crotch (self-explanatory as to what lol). additionally, we cannot duck. Like, we can lower our height a tad but we cannot drop to our opponents waist or something like that.

Sounds like he’s using a deflection technique to center his lung strike.... or u always blocking his intial (which I’m thinking are his feints ) strikes as he’s lunging in?
I actually think I know what he’s doing since I think I do the same thing.

Are you secretly 'the above mentioned undefeatable menace'?

Haha nah it’s and old trick some people use in fencing and a technique used in Arnis it a way to deflect attacks but using the rebound force to center your strikes.. it’s used for quick paced movements on attack while defending at the same time... u basically use your opponents force against them. But if your opponent uses harder force angling your weapon at a degree causes a shift which lets u kind of party and slide in for accuracy lunges.

But who knows... I wish we had a saber club where I’m from... but I haven’t been able to locate or find any locally

Height/reach is an important advantage in a fight, so that alone means you're at a disadvantage. Strength is less critical but is, as shown by your description, also a factor in his favour. You need to focus NOT on trying to overpower him, but on getting inside his reach to mitigate the advantages he has.


My personal opinion would be that your best bet is a two-handed approach, letting you guard more effectively, while trying to rush him down and force him into closer quarters than he's comfortable with. If you rush in while deflecting then go for a hit, there's a good chance you'll be able to land a hit before he can regain control of the fight.

Instead of letting the fight remain all about strength and range, turn it into a fight over spacing, and get in close.

I hope this helps. Good luck!

UPDATE:

Its been some time since I first started this thread, and my problems still persist against this opponent In the past 2 months, Ive gotten the chance to spar him and test some of the advice that's been given. The results are the same. simply put, I still get my ass beaten. From whats been suggested to me, here's what Ive done:

-Ive tried faking him, setting him up and then executing a different move. The problem is, I guess he can read me easily, and I die trying
-Ive tried doing a kramphau (is that how you spell that?) on his blade and going from there. While in theory it is good (he even pointed that out), the problem lies in striking. since he holds his cross guard sideways, I cannot just slide up and tag him. additionally, when I try to do something, like a strike to his chest, he simply slides his blade down and hits me, while I can't hit him in that time since I'm trapped by his crossguard. the most Ive been able to do with that is a double kill (we both die)
-going for legs is almost completely out of the picture, since He will just rotate his wrist and hit my arm way before I hit his leg.
-Ive gone two handed to increase my block power. Thing is, that doesn't amount to much, as he will reach me faster and further than I can hope to reach him, though I have been blocking SLIGHTLY more of his strikes.

The ONLY glimmer of hope I have is that he seems to at least PARTIALLY scared of someone getting too close, as he kept trying to make distance between me and him, though this may just be him using his very long reach to his full advantage.

Now that Ive updated, I am BEGGING for more advice. Not to sound like a child, but Im getting sick of just getting humiliated almost each and every time and being frustrated by this after each practice.

Thanks, m8s

Frenzi3d_Ronin

Good info.

I see the no-stabbing rule as a no-thrusting rule.  That aligns with the FFA preference for flashier fighting, and as you said, with no armor, it's safety issue.

You've come to the same conclusion, that you need to close the distance with the guy, he's got reach advantage so you'll never counter that while in his optimal range and your sub-optimal range.

Now for attitude.  Do not see this as humiliation.  The smartest thing you can do in karate class is spar the best fighters.  You will lose every time. Their victory is not the point.  What you will gain is better skill at blocking and attacking and endurance which you will see when you spar somebody in your training bracket who didn't do that.  You're goal with him is to get hit less and hit him more.  Not win, that is irrelevant to your training.

Since you haven't questioned it, I am assuming this guy has good control and is not using too much force.  The fact that he can bat your blade away says otherwise.  It's something to consider as he will always have a strength advantage.  Your clue is if his hits hurt more than other fighters.

Let's look at how to close with the guy.  When you swing to attack or block are you stepping?  Learning to combine movement with your blade is how you'll close.  The moves I learned involved stepping in as I block, then pivoting my blade to strike or stab the enemy.  Some of that doesn't work quite the same with light sabers because you can't touch the blade (I started with swords). You might also consider dodging.  if he swings and whiffs, now his blade is past yours for you to step in with the tip to his arm and your blade guarding against his return.

Keep this going guys! I'm learning a lot about tactics here...points to you both and thanks!

What are your club's rules on stepping off line.  I ask because I have seen some clubs that do not allow for side stepping or the like.  From all you have said he is strong, fast and observant.  This will make him tough to beat...but not impossible.  As someone else asked is there a way you can film your fights?  It will help I assure you.  If I missed It I apologize but what is your background if any?  Do you have some experience before hand in weapons or did you go in fresh, also what is your training like outside the club.

First, again as was mentioned, it should not be humiliation, it should be learning. Suggested slight outlook adjustment "I never lose. Either I win, or I learn."

Second, yes, losing every time gets real frustrating really fast. Been there, hated that.

Third, as I mentioned in your other thread, movement is key. Don't block, avoid. Or, to put it another way, the best block is to not be where the strike is made. Failing that, don't just block. Blocking tends to be static, just putting your blade in the way of his. Which is how he can either just move your sword out of the way, or push through the block. Instead, at worst, hit his blade. At best, redirect his blade. This can actually work to your advantage if he's trying to keep his distance from you.

Example: Simple cut horizontally across the chest from your opponent, going from your left to right. You need to move back slightly to avoid the cut, or put your blade up as if you were to block, but rotate your saber around under his (if you're fast enough at this point, you can actually move in for a cut to the legs. Aim for the mid-inner thigh, which should cut the femoral artery, and is pretty much guaranteed to be lethal) so that you're now pushing his blade in the direction it was already travelling. Step forward and slightly to your right, so that if you were to walk past him, you'd be right about shoulder to shoulder. Keep going forward, moving your blade parallel to his, but towards him. Cut him and he dies as you continue to move towards/past him.
His defensive options to this: A common reaction to this is to try to bring the blade up to block your cut. Except his sword is longer than yours and your sword is above his, which means if he tries to do this, he ends up pushing your blade into himself. Another reaction can be to turn the sword vertically point down, handle up, and try to bring his sword back to block yours. Except if you keep moving past him with your cut, he won't be able to get there in time, or at worst, you'll end up cutting him arm instead of his chest. He can try to reverse the direction of his cut, and bring his blade up and back across to block yours, but his momentum has him essentially moving away from you as you step to the side and forward, even more so if you've given his blade a push as you move in. He'll have to rotate his entire body to be able to hit you, which is much further than you have to move to hit him. So he would have to stop his momentum and reverse his swing back around to you and again, if you keep moving past him, he'll have further and further to go to get to you. His best defense would be to step back and to his left, turning to face you as he goes, which would move him out of the way of your cut, but still does not put him in a position to hit you right way. If he does this, turn so that you're facing him as you step, instead of just moving past him.
Last note on this, the real best counter to what you'd be doing in this situation would be to simply stop the cut and thrust forward, killing you. As thrusts aren't allowed in your club, you don't have to worry about that, but if you're every sparring with someone outside of those rules, you should be aware of it.

That's just one example of dealing with one attack, but you should be able to see the basic principles of avoidance, movement, and footwork. As Ender said "There is no combat without movement."

I know recording your matches with him as been suggested, which is a great idea, but is it also possible for you to watch him spar with others, to see how they deal with him? At worst you can add to your list of things not to do, and at best you'll pick up some things that do work.

As Tepes said, he's strong, fast, and observant. Of those, fast is the most important and difficult to overcome. Speed kills. If you have speed, you do the killing. If you don't, you get killed. A faster opponent can generally (but obviously not always, depending on the type of combat) defeat a stronger one. Observant is the second most important of those, since it allows you to know when and how to use the speed. Strength is the least important of those (which is not saying it's not important, just less so in a comparative manner), as the other two can overcome strength. Technique and skill can overcome, to an extent, any or all of those. And it can make you predictable, which can be its own trap. And which is why someone with no training just flailing around can still be dangerous.

I know I gave you more philosophy than actual "try this move" advice, but hopefully it helps. Keep us updated, we look forward to hearing how you do.

There's no " stepping off-line" rules in our club. Hence we can move around our opponent in any way we want. 
Now, if you really wanna know, My prior experience before lightsaber club was german pompf medieval weapons combat, particularly polearm, staff, longsword, and broadsword/shield Though I started doing that only less than a year before I started lightsaber dueling, I had gotten enough prior experience so that I had small background before I started lightsaber fighting. In addition, it makes me really want to learn/use saberstaffing. However, as of now I'm stuck with fighting single blade since my club is somewhat uptight about having specific training (which is ironic since not only have I fought with polearms/staffs before, other members of my saber club have taught me tips on how to use the saberstaff multiple times), though I really want to see how staffing might change fighting against my nemesis.
I certainly agree that I need to get close. However, I don't know if that's gonna do the trick alone. Being close up might allow him to use the full power of his crossguard as a blocking tool, as the chances of him trapping my blade may increase. Additionally, he doesn't have to move his saber far enough to reach me anymore, meaning he can hit me faster, especially if he gets past my blocks and since he has good blade control.

I also agree that combining movement with bladework is a very good idea. However, I will admit that I'm not so good at doing that. When I do this, I feel like my movement is clumsy or slow when doing this. Maybe this is due to lack of experience or muscle memory, or perhaps my body isn't good at doing multiple things at once IDK.

Well, you're gonna have to work footwork then.

I don't know what you know, but I learned some basic german longsword attacks.  Hold your lightsaber like a baseball bat and you're at home plate (over your shoulder, not resting, two handed grip, hands near your ear).  Now I learned to attack along 8 vectors (for really, the other four are just mirror images).  Overheard straight down (not allowed for your club), upper to lower 45 degree, straight across.  Or lower the blade down and swipe from lower to upper on the 45. Everything else is just switch hitting.

If you're right handed, the sword is over your right shoulder.  Right foot is back, left foot forward.

Assuming you can handle those cuts or close enough, every time you swing, you step. On the attack, your right foot comes forward.  At the completion of the swing, you left foot is back, so your home position is your left shoulder, park that blade there unless you are immediately attacking (and stepping). You swing, your back foot becomes the front foot and your blade parks on the back foot side.

In class or out at a ad-hoc demo, we'll practice a star pattern.  From the right shoulder, we attacker lower to upper on 45. Then attack from the left at horizontal.  Attack from the right at horizontal. from the left, drop the blade to do lower to upper 45.  Then attack from the right to an overhead strike.

It forms a star pattern as you alternate sides (because when you swing the sword is now on the opposite side).

Everytime you swing, you step.

Here's the extra fun part.  Swinging is blocking in this style.  Notice that if all german longsworders park their blade on their shoulder, they gotta move it to block.  The attacks are also blocks (I'm lying, there's a few other block alternatives).  So get a buddy and they can defend against this in the exact same way.  But instead, they step back.  Which means their front foot becomes their back foot.

You can do this in you backyard by yourself.  Start at one edge and advance until you can't.  Then do the blocks while you step backwards. Infinite combat space.

I picked this up easily enough because of karate.  You always advance with your attack (except when you don't). We had to do half moon steps, you can just step.  Get it in sync.  Come back when you got it down.

It's DEFINITELY about practice. Nothing about this is "I can't do it", just "I don't know how to do it well yet". Practice moving your body with your blade and it'll become second nature. Nobody's body is automatically good at doing multiple things at once, but everyone can teach themselves to do it freely and easily if they work on it.

There is no doubt some people have natural abilities for  things and some do not.  But Practice will always make the bad good and the good better.  Start working on footwork drills.  Then when you think you have a decent grasp on those start adding saber movements to it. 

Many mentionable things here.

For me though, this is all conjecture. Good conjecture, with some very helpful strategies. I would personally need to see a video or example to give proper tips on how I would approach this in the FMA mindset.

One thing for certain. Being " overpowered " is typically a structure/technique approach. If it becomes an overall issue though, it's nothing a cambiada cannot overcome.

On another note, Practice. Practice and then Practice some more. Which has already been said. The video reference material that was shown from VCU is also a very good approach. They are using lightweight training feder's. which is personally my favorite way to spar/compete
 (I suggest using a competition Feder to get use to the weight). Soooo much fun.

Kali is a great way to get the left and right side of the Brain to communicate, which is a primary key for good footwork combined with blade work. I always start students with double stick for overall coordination. I would suggest that here, even if you only fight with one blade. Your offhand needs to be just as coordinated. Which can ultimately throw your opponent off if you are good at transitioning from side to side.

Hey guys time for a new and sullen update

So, not much change, sadly. I've been trying a number of the tactics you've suggested.
Tried going in closer, still dying constantly
Tried going two handed, still dying constantly
tried combining footwork with striking. still dying constantly.
I haven't even managed to get a single kill on him since I last updated a few weeks ago.
The only good news I really have right now is that I'm lasting just a little longer than previously. While my fights against this "cheater" used to be like 5 seconds, they are now like 10. Still no actual wins for me.
To add insult to injury, it seems like he just blows me off, like he's not even really trying. He still gets me in the same areas, because apparently there's not enough time to dodge his strikes. The most BS part about this is that Even when Im close, he STILL somehow gets out of my reach or hits me first, and its almost impossible to hit him first since he can predict where I can hit him. This is because the way he holds his huge fricking crossguard narrows down the number of areas I can actually target to a few specific areas. I know people keep saying that the crossguard saber isn't that much of a monster, but in this case IT IS.
So yeah, Even though I'm trying my hardest, my ass is constantly getting beaten and I'm getting increasingly frustrated because its always like I'm just a nanosecond too late or less than an inch off.
What the hell am I missing? Im trying whatever I can that's within the bounds of my club rules, with no true results. Do I seriously have to BUY my way to victory by making my hilt longer? Or am I just not gonna be able to find a way past him with single blade?

Like I said. Cannot help If you do not have a visual reference.

Question. do you train somewhere? Whether its traditional, modern. Weapons specialization. If the answer is No. That is the solution to your issue. Go to a physical location and avoid online tutorials if this is important to you. You need the " critical eye " of an instructor. Once the basics of a system are learned, it will be easier to look at other techniques and modify them to your " Baseline ". Baseline = whatever Art or Arts you train in.

No baseline = no success.

If the answer is Yes. Then start paying attention to his movements ( I know you said you have but think if it this way....). Often, many practitioners will use the same handful of techniques over and over. Especially if it's having a high success rate. Where I teach, we call this " Going to the well ". One cannot go to the well too many times. For example. Angle 5 ( a thrust - high/mid/low) is very common in many arts. If my opponent scores the 5 line multiple times, despite what im doing. I do not really adjust my strategy other than knowing that attack is coming. Don't anticipate. Pay attention to their body movement. ( or body English ). They will have a telegraph before the movement comes. You will know this, because they have continued to score this same shot on you over and over.

So really, what you need, is situational awareness. Blur your vision and look at his collar bone/sternum. Wait to see body mechanics/shifiting. Peripheral vision is 30% faster than direct vision. Another tip. Which you will hear over and over. Do not think about the problem. Think about the solution.

Like I said, you give me a video and we do a little Skype session. Problem solved. It's what I do for a living my good friend.

yeah, what the Master Resolute said.

We are just spitballing here, giving generic advice like Footwork.  We're right, but there's more to it.

Hand your phone to the 3rd guy.  Film the match from a stationary position or at lest perpendicular to your fight so we can see both of you.  Upload it to youtube or twitter so it can be publicly viewed (use a fake name if need be).

Also, define what you mean by killed in 10 seconds.  Yeah, obviously, I know you're not dead.  But most bouts should score to 3 to 5 hits total to count as a lose AND most rulesets call for a withdrawal so the two fighters can reset.  If you count his first hit as you losing, that's not functionally useful as a metric.

Until we get a video, all you'll get is generic advice, but since that's fun, here's some more:

practice that "blurring out" as Master said.  Kind of widen your eyes, lose focus on the immediate foe.  It's like a wide-lens view of the opponent. do NOT stare at his sword.  If anything, watch his shoulders (as I learned it). They'll dip or shift as he moves and swings telling you where the sword is.

Next, reinvent the game.  Remember from Ender's Game, the enemy gate is down.  When you stop playing his game, he has to play yours.   Stop attacking.  Set your blade in front of you and point it at his eyes.  Practice blocks where you shift the hilt (not the tip) left or right to block upper/mid.  Swing it down to block low.  Basic fencing blocks.  Get good at those make him be your trainer. Practice other blocks.  The idea is to go FULL DEFENSE.  You're tired of dying, practice not getting hit.  He'll complain that you're not attacking him, but frankly, that's his problem and after the frustration you've had, he can choke on it.

Later, you can work on riposte, the counter-attack after you block.  But first, I want you to live for three minutes untouched.

And get that dang video. :)

Plenty of good advice here, but I agree that without live instruction/mentoring from an experienced martial artist, your chances of improving are low. If live instruction is not possible for you, I would echo the other advise of working hard of your footwork footwork footwork. Practice solo drills and partner drills until you drop. Footwork is the fundamental of sword combat and allows one to overcome any number of disadvantages. Finally, do not get frustrated from defeat and let it influence your future outcomes.  Take a moment before your next sparring session and visualize yourself scoring clean strikes on your opponent. See what it looks like and feels like in your mind, then execute. Stay positive.

Hate to tell you, but he's probably not really trying. As you said, he gets you in the same areas every time, so it's almost become rote for him. You can change this in several ways, the least of which is to at least force him to attack/hit you somewhere new.

No, he can predict where you're going to attack him because you always attack him the same way.

No, it isn't. You're angry and frustrated that you haven't got past it yet. And you probably get angrier and more frustrated every time you lose, which makes it more and more likely that you'll lose. And your opponent knows all of that, and knows what he's doing.

I'm going to refrain from the obvious answer to that question. I'm just going to mention in passing that, while a nanosecond difference will win you a match in Kendo, in a battlefield situation, or even a duel, that small of a difference usually means both people die. 

As much as I'd like to answer both of those questions with a "No" I realize that I really can't. If it were me, the answer to both would easily be "No" but you're not me. I don't think you'll have to get a longer hilt, and I think you should be able to get past him with a single blade. But like others said, that's harder to tell without actually seeing a match (like the others above me said, get us a video!). I know what my first dozen or so attempts would look like, although since I haven't seen him fight, I have no idea how successful they'd be.

Quick question, what does his starting stance look like?

I do like janx's advice on fighting defensively (at least in this case, not something I normally do). It sounds like you're the aggressor and he's simply dealing with your attacks. I'm curious to know how it would go if you forced him to attack first.

If you don't think you can beat him, then you never will. Speaking of which, one of the things I love reading here on the forums is people's signatures. Some are really creative, or at least pretty good. One that I read recently had this in it: "There's nothing, no opponent I cannot beat (eventually)." Yes, I know where I read it.

Very last thought: Obviously he does very well within your club's ruleset. I just wonder how well he would do outside of those rules.

Exactly.  I've always held the goal should be to be Unstoppable...not unbeatable.  Someone out there will always be better than you or maybe just better that day.  But never stop.