For lightsaber noobs only! (MHS, MLS, RGB, etc.). What is their meaning?

[Racona Nova]

You'll get an email when your order is shipped along with FedEx tracking information. So you can see where your order is at a certain time, when it arrived at/departed from a certain FedEx hub and what the estimated delivery date is.

[TheNightSlicer]

I haven't gotten as email that says it's been shipped. Only that my order was confirmed.

[Racona Nova]

Well, that's the first email you get after you placed your order. Once your saber is completed (normally two to three days after placing your order), you'll get that shipping information

[TheNightSlicer]

You have my thanks friend. May the a Force be with you.  -:>

[TheNightSlicer]

One more question. What is the difference between the Obsidian Soundboard and a normal soundboard?

[Racona Nova]

There is no difference. Obsidian is the official name of the sound board Ultrasabers uses in their builds. It's named like that because the upper side (the one you see when pulling the battery pack out) is coated in black epoxy.

[TheNightSlicer]

Do you need a Buck Puck for the internal wiring for a saber?

[Racona Nova]

You can use a resistor for your main LED instead, but a BuckPuck is recommended. It has much less heat development and thus much less loss of energy and it can maintain the current to the LED far more precise than a resistor could.

Anyway, a resistor is ALWAYS needed for the illuminated AV switches and if you want a colour different from Red, Green, Blue and Silver/White.

[Kresnik]

You can use a resistor for your main LED instead, but a BuckPuck is recommended. It has much less heat development and thus much less loss of energy and it can maintain the current to the LED far more precise than a resistor could.

Anyway, a resistor is ALWAYS needed for the illuminated AV switches and if you want a colour different from Red, Green, Blue and Silver/White.

Just to elaborate on what Racona Nova said -

The main difference is you have to figure out the right resistor for the specific LED - using a buck puck does it for you.  Basically no requirement for figuring out the right resistor, which is awesome if you plan on swapping LED or putting Quick Disconnects on it. 

For example say you build a saber and resist for a Blue LED and you decide you want a mixed LED to make purple you will have to replace the resistor, with a buck puck it is a "smart " resistor and figures it out internally and does not require complex mathematical calculations that simple folk like myself are incapable of solving. 

[Racona Nova]

Thanks for going in detail. I still don't have that much knowledge on functionality to explain it properly, so I just gave some rough pros and cons

[TheNightSlicer]

But do I need at least one of them? Or can I do the wiring without either?

[Racona Nova]

No, if you wire the battery pack directly to the LED, it'll blow up faster than the Millenium Falcon doing the Kessel Run. You need at least a resistor matching the LED specs, a BuckPuck is better, though. That's also why you always need a resistor for illuminated AV switches to prevent their LED's being blown up. The Li-Ion voltage is far too high for those LED's without a resistor or another voltage/current limiting device.

[Kresnik]

No, if you wire the battery pack directly to the LED, it'll blow up faster than the Millenium Falcon doing the Kessel Run. You need at least a resistor matching the LED specs, a BuckPuck is better, though. That's also why you always need a resistor for illuminated AV switches to prevent their LED's being blown up. The Li-Ion voltage is far too high for those LED's without a resistor or another voltage/current limiting device.

YES !

This 1000 times... A buck puck is suggested  if you are doing AV because you can wire the buck puck from power source to buck puck to av switch and buck puck to lLED otherwise you would have to  figure the resistor value to the LED and to the AV switch and that is not good business for an efficient build. 

The Buck Puck will calculate the proper output to the AV switch without frying it otherwise every time you activate it the battery pack will send all of its juicy power directly to the very small illuminated light source on the AV switch and burn the LED out quickly most likely.  Then you wont have any thing to go to the LED unit itself. 

Resistors are good for cheap builds in which you plan on ever replacing LEDs but if you are building a Li Ion Set up and want to be able to swap LEDs easily by installing QD and if you have an AV switch a Buck Puck is always recommended if not required to avoid the complexity of it.   You can multiple styles of this type of smart resistor with 4 wires, 6 wires and I believe they have others as well up to 10 or 12 or something.  I dont know that much about it just very little knowledge.  Master Bluespike would be a great resource for detailed questions such as these. 

[dwpas]

I need help with the Obsidian Sound Board!!! Losing my mind! Can't change any of the sounds and don't know how to become administrator or get the old sounds back

[James Casey]

I think the guide below is correct. Someone will be sure to point out anything that's changed since I last posted this

First off, your profile must be a profile with Administrator rights. If not, switch to one that is.

Download and install the Obsidian Launcher. You must have it set to run as Administrator (right-click the icon, go to Properties, click on the Compatibility tab, then 'Run this program as an administrator'). This is in addition to running on a profile with Administrator rights.
Download some fonts (various options at http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?board=36.0, or at http://www.ultrasabers.com/Sound-Font-p/soundfont-manual.htm) and extract them to a folder
Make sure your 'sabre is fully charged before plugging in. If your batteries die mid-transfer, you can mess it up.
Switch on your lightsabre and plug it into a USB port. Wait for it to install on your computer
Load up the Obsidian Launcher program. Your lightsabre should power down, and in the top right of the Launcher screen you should see the serial number of your 'sabre
Clear the right pane of the Launcher window of any fonts that may be there.
Navigate in the left pane of the Launcher window to where you have your fonts installed
Drag the .lsu files over to the right pane. So, for example, the Yoda font I downloaded has poweron.lsu, poweron2.lsu, poweron3.lsu, poweron4.lsu, poweronf.lsu. You'd put one those into the Power On section. The Motion, Lockup and Impact sections can have more than one option loaded.
Continue until you're happy with the selection of fonts on the right side of the window.
(Optional) Save the configuration file - I have all mine in the Ultrasabers folder (that the Launcher installs to by default) for convenience, along with all the font folders
Click on the round button with the down arrow in it. You'll start to download the fonts onto the 'sabre.
There's a check box on the progress window. It says something like 'verify integrity' or something. Best to check it.
Once it's complete, close the Launcher, unplug your 'sabre, and enjoy the new sounds.

Also, you can mix and match sounds - Starkiller power up, Sith swings, Yoda clashes and so on.

Hope that helps!