Saber Forum

I have this LED module:
https://www.ultrasabers.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=LED%20Module (https://www.ultrasabers.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=LED%20Module)
with these options:
[LED Color:Guardian Blue][Flash on Clash:Flash Silver][Install Quick Disconnect:Yes]

Here's what it looks like:
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g137/cabo5150/Light%20Sabers/BC0862AF-DD82-4ADA-908E-DDA676073AB3.jpg) (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/cabo5150/media/Light%20Sabers/BC0862AF-DD82-4ADA-908E-DDA676073AB3.jpg.html)

I have the wiring diagrams and understand them, however I'm not positive what the wires out of the LED module are and could use help identifying them.

Thank you!

Anyone? Bueller?


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I think (don't take that for granted, I need to look at the disassembled module to be sure) that it's like this:

Violet wire soldered to the black wire of the red connector => FoC
Brown wire soldered to the black wire of the black connector => LED negative
White and blue wires soldered to the red wire of the black connector => LED positives

So, the black wire on the other part of the black connector needs to go to the negative and the red wire on it needs to go to the positive.

PS: Is it possible to unscrew the housing without twisting the wires too much? If so, may you do that and post a pic of the LED pad so that I can look at the solder pads? That would help a lot.

I have only done a handful of LED wirings myself and none with FoC, but based on what I have seen on my Ultrasabers with FoC that sounds right.  I like pulling the LED modules out and looking at the wiring, to see how the pros do it.  :)

I agree with Racona Nova. I tested the wires when I built my saber and that is what I got.

Thanks Molina & SAWeston :) Good to know that I begin understanding how these saber electronics work...took me quite a time.

No problem.  I think I have only done 4 wiring jobs so far, three with soundboards and none with FoC.  I have a ways to go but I am learning. 

You can also use a larger hex wrench to unscrew the housing using the hole in the middle of the heat sink.  I usually just grab hold of the wires and unscrew it though, it unscrews pretty easily that way.

No problem! 😊  I was really confused when I first wired mine, but luckily I knew some people that worked in electronics.

Guys I apologize I didn't get notifications of replies, still learning the tapatalk. I got the just from your descriptions and hopefully I'll get some time this weekend to wire and test everything.
Thanks


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Good luck!  8)

I forgot: the black wire on the other part of the red connector needs to go directly to the FoC terminal of the sound board.

Ok
I got it wired up last night, want to get a resistor before before I complete it. Anyone know offhand the resistor needed for the gardian blue?(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/25/757fac748bc58c1fd56e6506ad21e186.jpg)



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Great! 😁 I just used the buckpuck from US so I don't really know which resistor would be needed.

Now I'm wondering do I need a resistor on the FOC too?

Do you have a BuckPuck setup on your saber? If yes, and I think so because you have sound where the BuckPuck is recommended, you don't need any resistors for your LED because the BuckPuck regulates the current to the LED. You would only need resistors on a die if you want to mix colours.
AFAIK you don't need any resistors on the FoC because it's the negative, only on the positive you need a resistor.

If you use a resistor setup along with sound, then I can tell you the forward voltage (3.7V) of the blue die. If you run it at a forward current of 1000mA, you can calculate the resistor needed from here (http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz).

I don't have the buck puck.
Obsidian card
Led module blue with FOC
2 li battery setup so voltage would be 7.4.
I checked my Arbiter (green and sound but no FOC) and I can't find a resistor anywhere.


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With the Obsidian soundboard, I would definitely use the BuckPuck if possible. I believe US installs BuckPucks in all sabers with sound and, therefore, does not need to put a resistor in them as well.

US also offers the resistor setup for sabers with sound, but I agree. The best solution is the BuckPuck, no matter if you go with sound or without.

@cabo: The resistors (if you have any) are always covered in heatshrink at solder joints. The BuckPuck sits somewhere inside the saber, probably not visible for us. I think it's at the end of the battery pack, wrapped with that black adhesive tape which also holds the sound board in place...but I'm not sure.

Do resistors always go under heat shrink this is the first time I have heard this? Every video I have  watched they left the middle resistor piece exposed an the heat shrink is only covering the exterior metal where it was soldered but the module is out.

My DVA module definitely has no visible resistor (and it's needed to mix that colour). Maybe they changed the assembly technique, but the module I have has no exposed resistor. So I think that they're always covered, also because it offers some protection to the resistor body.

 No arguments from me, I'm a new guy I've only been learning since January. That being said I have no clue how its wired but I just read that because resistors are used to dissipate heat you never want them covered. I looked into it after post. The video I watched was from may last year. This doesn't mean it is correct either. Just for the record I am definitely not arguing with you and I am a very open minded individual so I'm sure their are rules an exceptions that I am unfamiliar with.

 Off topic but would you have any input on my wiring diagram post I sure could use it.

Never saw that as an argument, everything's fine :D I'm not an expert either, never built a saber from scratch up to now ;) So I'm not familiar with the exact procedures and rules, just like you!

I could try to help you with your diagram, but no guarantee that it's useful or correct ;) I'll have a look, though!

Edit: Woah, that's quite complicated how you set that up...here you find some simpler and fully functional diagrams: http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=22628.msg342042#msg342042 :D They should help you with the correct wiring of the Converter. It's only for a resistor or Emerald stunt setup, but I don't think it's too difficult to figure out where the BuckPuck has to be installed...otherwise you can always ask us, maybe a DIY and electronics expert will also chime in ;)

 Thanks a billion Sir I appreciate it a lot. I just seen the links now. I had seen some of these before but didn't save pictures or the page to favorites, I started doing that after I lost them lol. That's where I got the idea to make one and post for confirmation, I wanted too much before as you could tell by the diagram lol so I couldn't find anything similar. It was the econo build emerald saber DIY lol. But yeah awesome.

I have been dying to turn all this stuff on. I just am the type of individual that things always go south an currently I am low on funds for hobbies an entertainment so if this went bad it would ruin my day. Thus I needed a confirmed working layout that's identical in items or my own layout confirmed. SAFTY FIRST lol.

I posted two more blueprints late last night an with that link my last question is solved. Hooray my saber will be built. can't wait now all my problems involve my hilt I made outta junk and fitting these things in it while still being able to fasten it together or enhancements like running two Leds at once.

1,000 personal and assisted confirmations, steps, pages, links, questions, Pieces, stores, and ideas later an I still barely have a clue but I am about to have my own Saber.


Thanks, Pete

Yeah, it would be a pity if you spend hundreds of $$ for parts, wire all up and "BOOM" ;D So if you don't know how to do this or that, always ask before you try anything :D I know what I'm talking about, I also have to look twice if I can currently afford what I want...

got it all worked out

Nice :D Have fun then!

I did my original setup. I have manuel FoC an 6 color setups with 3 colors per set up with three varations all changed by switching one quick connect. Here are some pics. video of FoC coming soon.

I still haven't solder my connection for blue/green and I'm working on orange.

(http://i64.tinypic.com/25sym1d.png)

Now I'm gonna add a ghetto sound card that I got out of a luke generic blade bulders back in febuary when I thought this would only take a week lol.