Saber Forum

I couldn't find a diagram with this set up, so I created one and Deep was kind enough to verify it.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/kamakazy101/97C7045C-273B-4D81-A642-50AC29B6EC8F-21244-000015AD0C2395AD.jpg)

Nice setup.  I ran my battery pack directly into the Buck Puck and then simply placed the Buck Puck into the battery of the original diagram.  Everything works fine.  Glad you were able to get this one verified.  Makes life alot simpler for everyone in the future.  Thanks Vex.  Have a point.

Thanks for the diagram! Looks nice and easy to follow

Your welcome , and glad i could help.

I did use my diagram to hook up my Overlord. It fired up great and all FoC and sound functions are correct! And for a bit of info, I ordered a MLS unit DVA with silver FoC and it came with the wires and connectors for the saber side terminated, I just had to solder in te other ends!

So is the FoC connection to the board just another negative connection that is temporarily activated for each flash effect?

You would be correct RAS. 

When the FOC contact is temporarily closed, is the main led connection still active or is it switched off when the FOC is active?

Switched off.

I just finished up wiring my new saber and I couldn't have done it without this diagram! Wiring in the buck puck actually simplifies the wiring... 2 in, 2 out! Thanks a lot for posting this!

Your very welcome!

hi there,

i am going to be building my own saber. i am curious, as to the flash on clash, do you need 2 LEDs? 1 for main color, and the 2nd for the flash? i noticed that they just talk about using a RGB, but all the diagrams that i have come across, show 2 LEDs. could someone please clarify this for me? And if it is 2 LEDs, what is the best way to place them in the saber?

It is a single LED with 4 dies.  One die is Red, one die is Blue, one die is Green, and the forth die is either White or Amber.  Each die has its own + and - pad for wiring.  When you see the diagrams, you are seeing the wiring to the dies, not the LED's.  Also, here is a thread I created showing how I converted an Overlord from Blazing Red Stunt to Guardian Blue with Adegan Silver FOC Obsidian Sound.

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=7466.0 (http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=7466.0)

Tripped over this doing some research, excellent little piece of information! I think I'll just pin this.... ;)

Here are 2 other variants of my diagram with AV switches. One with Buck Puck+ resistor , and one with just resistors . I'm happy I can help!
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/kamakazy101/ObsidianwithfocandAV_zps9edb4762.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/kamakazy101/ObsidianwithfocnoBuckPuck.jpg)

Interesting.... I see the lower one also has an accent led.... forgive my noobishness, but might I inquire as to if it is possible (and if so, also for a diagram perhaps?) to wire in an accent led with a Buck Puck? I have diabolical plans which might benefit from such possibilities....  ;)

is it ok for me to give a list of my components and for someone to tell me which diagramm i need to use and what up with the resistors how strong what type

here is my components just in case
Modular LED System (MLS) unit
1000mA Wired BuckPuck
Anti Vandal Momentary Switch - Illimunated
4x AAA Battery Holder/Speaker Combo
Obsidian USB Soundboard 2.1
Modular LED System (MLS) unit

i think thats all i need

@mattawie: You should take the Li-Ion Battery Holder/Speaker Combo http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-sound-aacombo.htm (http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-sound-aacombo.htm) instead of the 4x AAA Battery Holder/Speaker Combo.

Here you can read about all the advantages of the Li-Ion setup: http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=1581.0 (http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=1581.0)

Sorry guess I didn't link it. Here ya go.keep in mind this is without a Buck Puck. I will post that version once I correct that diagram. The AV switch with the Buck Puck will be the same as on this diagram as it has to have its own resistor and not routed to the Buck Puck
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/kamakazy101/ObsidianwithfocnoBuckPuck.jpg)

So the AV switch needs a resistor regardless of whether a buckpuck is installed or not? If so, this is really good to know as I would have obliterated the LED in my PVC saber build (just in the idea stage at this point).

Do you know what resistor value we need for the AV switch?

Yes , according to Deep , the AV switch needs to be resisted And not through the Buck Puck.

I had to add resistors to my leds that I used for my sabers. I beleive that the board isnt capable of incorporating it in the general schematic. Maybe in the future we can have this option  hint hint!

Would someone be able to make a schematic similar to the first one, buckpuck+regular switch but also with an accent led?

Can do!

I also want to do a build in the future using Obsidian sound and this helps tons. So easy to fallow. I would like to get FOC and the blade shimmer also, but how would I go about ordering an MLS unit with FOC? I might do Arctic Blue with yellow FOC and blade shimmer on. Any help on that would be great. =]

Never mind I guess FOC was added to options of ordering a normal LED unit. xp

They did indeed! It's a standard option on the LED and MLS units... looks like my Padawan can have his dream of swinging Guardian Blue. (Yeah, not happy about that... he picked VA and then changed his mind a month later...). Thanks for noticing this, Zren!

I wonder if Ultrasabers can ship an LED module, and another set of JST connectors on the side for the current LED module? It's going to be cram-fu central, but QDs can go in a Prophecy v3... just not easily at all, but there's room! I looked!

Do blue with silver FOC. That would look cool. I think he would like that.

That is the plan! I love my AS flashes...

Here is a corrected version of my diagram. This is with Buck Puck, FoC , and an AV switch.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/kamakazy101/Obsidianwithfocbuckpuck2_zps3ebd5f34.png)
Note that the AV switch does not go through the Buck Puck and has its own resistor.
Awaiting feed back from Emory ,via email, pertaining to a accent led also being driven by Buck Puck, I will post another diagram once I have the info.

If you don't mind my asking, what size resistor did you use for the LED? How many watts and OHM's?

Part of that is going to depend upon what color your illuminated switch is.  If it is Blue or Green, you will need at 220 Ohm 1/8 watt and if it is Red, 270 ohm 1/8 watt.  This is if the illuminated switches are still running at 3.3 fV for B or G and 2.1 fV for Red and you are using a 7.4 V Li Ion Setup. 

It's a greev AV switch and it's the Li Ion setup with buckpuck and recharge batteries. So does that mean I need a 220 OHM 1/8 watt?

Those are the stats that I have here in front of me.  220 Ohm, 1/8 watt (or greater) resistor. 

You are correct good sir! Thanks for that info! Worked out to my benefit! Greatly appreciated!

This makes life a bit easier. Glad you posted and glad its pinned. Point to you.

Your very welcome!

After reading this over, several times I might add. I am slightly confused on what I am to do.
SY LED, buck plug, green AV switch, and the 3.0 soundboard. Do I need to add the 200 Ohm resistor if I do not have the FoC?

If you are using a Buck Puck you only need a resistor for the AV switch.

Would the resistors from radio Shack work (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12554196&filterName=Type&filterValue=1%26amp%3B%23047%3B8-watt+resistors (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12554196&filterName=Type&filterValue=1%26amp%3B%23047%3B8-watt+resistors))

I am not familiar with those resistors so I am not comfortable giving you a definitive answer on that.  You might want to drop the guys at US an email at shipping@ultrasabers.com and get clarification.  They know those sound boards and illuminated switches much better than I do.

I am asking because it meets the ohm and wattage that has been put forward in here. Also US has been...slow in answering my emails...

When we follow this diagram, do we lay the parts out in the same direction? Common sense tells me yes but it can never hurt to ask.

It's not nessisary, but can be helpful if you do.

And this diagram will work for the 3.0 correct?

I believe so, but not certain.

So I've just taken up soldering, this week I have installed Quick Disconnects in almost all of my sabers, no issue so far and I'm getting better at it each time.  I am interested in upgrading some non FoC sabers to be able to use a FoC LED module as I do have some extras that have FoC.  So my question is when I remove my obsidian board it does not seem to want to come out all the way, I don't want to pull too hard and risk damaging it.  They have the top wired in electrical tape which I assume I'd have to remove to access the pins but is there a trick to getting the board out for easier access?

Yes. Everthing pulled out completely for me after I snipped the switch wires. It's the connections to the switch that are preventing a full removal. To add FoC, it's probably a good idea to remove the switch. Just number the wires to make reconnecting the switch later a breeze.

oh man, i was really hoping I could just solder in the 1 wire and run it up through the hilt, not sure if I'm comfortable actually disconnecting the current wiring on the board yet.

If you can reach the pin on the board without removing the switch, definitely save yourself some extra work. Undoing the electrical tape will likely give you the breathing room you need.

is there a trick to removing the switches?  When I look down through the hilt at the A/V switches they look to be hot glued in place.  I thought all the switches were just press fit but maybe not A/V ?

Avs do have some adhesive but you can still pry them lose.  Tape your hilt to prevent scratching and use a flat screwdriver and pry slowly up. 

Hello,
I don't understand something on this diagram. The Foc led -  doesn't need to come back to the buckpuck?
So i think my wiring diagram is wrong:
(http://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/611417obsidian2wiringdiagram.jpg) (http://www.hostingpics.net/viewer.php?id=611417obsidian2wiringdiagram.jpg)

The led+ of the buck Puck gets split to the mail led + and FoC led +, the FoC terminal on the board controls the gnd Goin to the FoC led. (the flash is controlled via the FoC terminal).

Thanks for your quick answer. So my diagram is better like that i suppose:
(http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/504566Obsidian2wiring.png) (http://www.hostingpics.net/viewer.php?id=504566Obsidian2wiring.png)

This is exactly what I am looking for :D Thanks a lot, that will make it easy exchanging my guarded switches with blue AV ones and two Dyna-Ohms from LEDsupport (do you mind when I mention the company?) ^^
Does this also apply to the new Obsidian 3.0? Or is there an important difference in wiring?

Sorry, me again...do the blue LEDs on the AV switches have a forward voltage of 2.8V and a forwar current of 20mA? The 2.8V are written onto the switches (so I assume this will be the forward voltage), but I haven't found information about the current - that's the important thing I have to know 'cause the DynaOhms from LEDsupport are available with 20, 25 and 30mA :-\ I don't want to take the wrong ones and kill my switch LEDs.

it looks like I should use this diagram when connecting my first light saber.

Here is the setup:
 
Hilt: Ordinary hilt
Emitter: Shock emitter (http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-emitter-shock.htm).
Blade: Ultraedge midgrade blade (http://www.ultrasabers.com/MG-Blade-p/blades-edge-mid.htm) or UltraEdge Heavy Dueling Blade (http://www.ultrasabers.com/UHEB-Blade-p/blades-edge-hvy.htm).
Pommel: Manticore high pommel (http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-pommel-hmanticore.htm).
LED: Forum yellow. 
Battery pack: 2x 14500 Li-Ion Battery Holder/Speaker Combo (http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-sound-aacombo.htm) and 700 mA buch puck (http://www.ultrasabers.com/BuckPuck-700mA-4-wire-P363.aspx).
Soundboard: Obsidian USB sound board 3.0 (http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-sound-obsidianusb3.0.htm).
Buttons: Two anti Vandal Momentary Switch (http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-electronics-avbluemomentary.htm). One red and one blue (sonce they dont have illuminated yellow)

I guess I need a 20 mA transistor for the button as well.

Yes, you will need this diagram and a 20mA resistor (DynaOhm recommended) for your switch. However, I would recommend the 1000mA BuckPuck that you can find on US's homepage as well. Also, it's always good to ask Emory at info@ultrasabers.com if he could sell you a yellow AV switch instead of the red/blue/green ones.

This style of switch is certainly available in amber (yellow), through other sources.

Today I finally started to do the wiring and I have some questions for the diagram above:

• Whats the "foc led con" on the diagram? I cant figure out which part that is.
• On the diagram above several wires are to be connecten, ie Main led conn -, LED- (on switch) and LED- on Buck puck. It it ok to connect all of these and solder they togehter?
• How do I know which is C1 and NO1 on the AV switch?

I can only answer questions 2 and 3 so far.

2) Yes, you can solder them together. Just don't forget the resistor on the wire leading to the switch LED+ terminal (best choice are 20mA DynaOhm) to prevent it from burning.
3) Only the switch LED+ and LED- terminals, so it doesn't matter which one of the non-marked sides you use for C1 and NO1.

As for question 1), I think you have a + and - on the LED unit that is labelled "FoC" or similar and a + and - for the main LED, but I have neither looked at raw unsoldered LED units nor built these circuits myself by now. Maybe Bluespike has some more information about this.

EDIT: This pic indicates that there must be two different terminals for the main LED and the FoC feature
(http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/504566Obsidian2wiring.png)

The FoC LED connection is the second color, or flash color. This shows that one red wire is divided near the MLS and powers both colors, but for FoC to function, the black wires are separate. The main color's returns to the buckpuck while the FoC color's (usually a brown wire in an Ultrasaber) goes to the FoC lead on the Obsidian board. When a flash is activated, the Obsidian tells the FoC circuit to connect instead of the main, and that's why the secondary color shines instead of the main. The lockup just switches the circuit from FoC to main at the speed you set it at in the board settings.

Talking about wire colours - do you have a short description on the wire colours in an Ultrasaber? I think this could be interesting for other Ultrasabers DIY projects :)

Eerockk and Racona are correct. I should have clarified my diagram, sorry. The FoC Conn. Is the Flash on clash connector for the MLS unit. The NO1 is the normally open terminal and the C1 the the Closed terminal. Basically with with the  switch not pressed there should be no continuity between the NO1 and C1. When the switch is pressed or latched there  should be continuity between NO1 and C1. The switch you use should be a momentary style for and Obsidian sound saber. You can use a meter to determine the NO1 and C1. For any more answers feel free to post it here or Pm me. I'll be on more frequently now.

Your diagram is the sole reason why I'm confident answering these questions (and disassembling my Overlord to wait for parts to repair it).

Speaking of the switch, there is always a dot marked near the 4 pins. All the switches are the same. I flagged my wires with tape so I know what's what, but I wonder if there's a diagram out there that shows which pin is which in relation to that dot? I scoured but to no avail.

I only found some kind of scheme at "the other guys" website...I could send you a PM, if you want. But it doesn't name the C1 and NO1 terminals either :-\

I would just need to know which terminals are the LED terminals in relation to that dot. I think it's #2 (resistored) and #4 counting clockwise from the dot, but I'm not 100% sure.

Don't know if that's in line with the forum rules, but here's the image:
(http://www.ultrasabers.com/Assets/ProductImages/SMRNRc.jpg)

If it's not allowed, feel free to edit my post or tell me. It's a general scheme, so it should be fine with the rules, but I'm not sure :-\

EDIT: Okay, doesn't work...but the LED + terminal is the one on the right and the LED - is on the left when turning the switch so that the dot is at the top right corner.

It works. The forum changes the link if you make a link to "the other guys" but if you copy & paste and replaces it you can see the picture.

But if I don't have any FoC enabled on my LED (that came preassembled with only + and - wire connected) what do I do with the two wires that where supposed to be connected to the FoC?

Do you guys trim all the wires and use quick connectors on everything when you assemble the electronics?

I would solder everything and not use quick disconnects as their 'bulk' would make it harder to fit things together. Just my opinion.

Thanks for the hint :)

If your LED doesn't have FoC (I assume you didn't order it intially), then the wires for FoC shown in the diagram simply need not be included in your built.

Connectors make sense if you want to swap parts or disassemble your saber without cutting/desoldering/resoldering wires. There are some who have done that, but it's difficult to do in small hilts - the connectors need a bit more space, especially when you want more than one. That's actually the reason why Quick Disconnects for the LED unit aren't offered with all hilts.

If you don't have the 2nd color wired in to the LED, just ignore the FoC side of the diagram. The LED won't flash, but the saber still makes the clashes and lockup sounds.

I love QDs! I would use the red JSTs as they do fit nicely even in the smaller hilts like the Archon or the Prophecy. That said, I did use the black QDs in both hilts and there was more than enough room in both.

Last night I took the time to do all the wiring and it works.   wooohoooo.  I had to connect the two unmarked connectors to soundboard as well.

I should problaby check the LED-wiring on the switch because it doesnt illuninate when the lightsaber is "on".

Excellent!! Question though. Do you have a resistor on the switch LED?

ilpostino -- were you able to resolve the issue of your switch LED not igniting when the saber is on -- because I'm doing a DIY build too and have the same problem -- I've followed Vex's buckpuck wiring diagram to a T -- and have the correct resistor type going to the LED+ on the switch  . . . so I'm stuck!  Everything else works correctly though.

I redid the wiring but still no light at the switch. The day before I did all the wiring I connected the LED-wiring for the switch to a AAA battery holder and I think I fried the LED in both my switches. I havent bought new switches yet but everything else works fine.

Bluespike gave me a tip -- disconnect everything and wire your switch directly to the batter + / - leads.  Make sure you have your resistor in place on positive lead.  This will confirm if your switch LED is fried.

I tried this last night and it worked -- so I was mis wiring something else in the series -- I figured it out -- I was having the buckpuck drive the LED+ whereas it should be coming directly from the battery positive lead going to the buckpuck and the VIN on the board.

Worst come to worst -- you could start with confirming the LED switch directly -- then add segment by segment until you reach a point where the LED switch doesn't ignite -- that would isolate any mistake at that point in the wiring.

Hope you get it figured out.

In my diagram I used a Dyna ohm resistor. You can try putting a normal resister on the negative side of the switch led instead of the positive. This was a major oversight and I should have noted it.

OK here goes. I have an overlord with purple blade. I'm adding a sound card, a yellow switch and a charge port. I want to add forgot there is only 3 wires coming from my led. 2 red 1 black. My guess is this is how they get the proper color. If I separate the red leads will this give for and will it change the primary color. Also any idea what ohm I  would need for the switch or can it go through the buck puck.
Thanks  Larry

What led i must buy to add FoC to obsidian v4?
There is a especific type of buck puk tu buy?
Thanks a lot

Please what type of led and buck puk i must buy to add FoC to obsidian v4?
Thanks a lot

Thanks for the helpful diagrams looks easy to follow

First, please read and acknowledge the forum rules before posting any further :)

Second, you don't need a specific BuckPuck if you bought your saber with the default one. The one used by UltraSabers is suitable for FoC. LED is a different thing: for FoC you need a multi-colour RGB LED. Blazing Red, Consular Green, Guardian Blue, Adegan Silver and Fire Orange are made with single-colour LEDs, so if you want FoC and have one of these colours you'll have to change your LED.

These diagrams have simplified everything for me. Thanks to all who have posted with their inputs. My question would be concerning a little help with adding in hilt charging to this diagram. Where does this get placed?

Thanks anyway. I have managed to answer my own question. Via search and other members suggestions. I am now about ready to start my first build.

Hi all

im new here, trying to build my own saber. im trying to find some help on connecting BuckPuck to a obsidian sound board.
but the diagram show here is been blurred.
do we need some permission to view the diagram ?

Thanks

Finally manage to see the diagram.
need to register to photobucket

I think you need the diagram from this post:
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=42841.0;topicseen (http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=42841.0;topicseen)

Thanks for the guide.
that what i need

How to get these diagrams without the stupid photobucket watermark?!?!?

I believe I have them all in this album:
https://imgur.com/a/IipfCY2 (https://imgur.com/a/IipfCY2)