Wiring Diagram

[ExecutorIoh]

Can somebody review my wiring diagram and make sure there are not fatal flaws?  Also per another post, I am concerned that with wiring the button LED separate from the main, the LED won't be lit when the main is on (it will always be on or only when button is pressed). 

Any thoughts or suggestions?  Any fatal flaws in wiring diagram?

Thanks,
ExecutorIoh

Link to diagram:
https://plus.google.com/118132419547080978597/posts/R3hUXKxNED7

[Master Bluespike74]

The diagram looks good for me.  I think you are correct that the button LED will be constantly on though.  Rather than connect your button LED positive with the battery positive, you may want to look at connecting to the LED line that comes off your sound board to your Main LED. 

Keep in mind that I have never wired an illuminated AV switch to an Obsidian so I am just looking at this on paper.  Check with some of the others that have wired illuminated AV to Obsidian prior to making any adjustments. 

Blue

[ExecutorIoh]

Thanks Blue. First of all, big fan of your videos when you did the Overlord Project they were a huge help.  I guess I am pushing the limits of my understanding all on my first saber. 

The trick now is to find a person that has wired an illuminated AV switch to an Obsidian Sound Card and pick at their brain.  Once I figure that one thing out, I think my technical training will be complete.

[ExecutorIoh]

Here is a thought.  I think this is what you are saying Blue...

Rather than having the ground (-) from the switch LED running through the resister back to ground before the BuckPuck, have the ground wire, after the resister, connect to the yellow ground water between the (-) on the Main LED and the LED pin on the sound card.  Both of those are negative and should only be a closed circuit when the system is on, but still allows the positive to come ahead of the BuckPuck to preserve current to the main LED.

Any experts out there can confirm or deny my ideas here?  Do I dare just try it out?

[Darth Vapour]

I have done an obsidian with an led switch. Yours actually looks fine as is. The ground to the switch will not create a circuit with the switch led so to speak. The switch circuit and the switch led circuits are independent as far as I know. The only thing I would do differently is splice the switch led lines in before the buckpuck rather than after as it preserves the full puck output to main led.

[eerockk]

The switch circuit and the switch led circuits are independent as far as I know. The only thing I would do differently is splice the switch led lines in before the buckpuck rather than after as it preserves the full puck output to main led.

I'll confirm that. Wire the switch LED in after the soundboard but before the buckpuck, and the LED will turn on and off with the saber.

[Genkaku Sho`shyk]

i recently got the emerald 4 channel + RGBW +3.0 sound.... the set up from US.. has 4 wires for the switch.. meant for an AV switch.. 2 grey wires.. and a red and black, all marked.... but the grey wires are not marked... are they pos/neg for the power on... or are they the LED wires for the LED in the switch....

im going to assume here that the AV switch wires they have marked pos/neg (pos/red-----neg/black)  are for the switches LED... as that LED MUST have a pos and neg in the correct ocations.. where'as the power on/off for the switch itself can be either.....

in my hilt i dont like the LED in a switch.. and have a TCSS brass colored AV switch, only need 2 wires, and as before, no matter the die it on, since its a momentary AV

please let me know if anyone can confirm my thoughts that the 2 GREY wires are the power on/off for the hilt.. not the AV LED

[eerockk]

i recently got the emerald 4 channel + RGBW +3.0 sound.... the set up from US.. has 4 wires for the switch.. meant for an AV switch.. 2 grey wires.. and a red and black, all marked.... but the grey wires are not marked... are they pos/neg for the power on... or are they the LED wires for the LED in the switch....

im going to assume here that the AV switch wires they have marked pos/neg (pos/red-----neg/black)  are for the switches LED... as that LED MUST have a pos and neg in the correct ocations.. where'as the power on/off for the switch itself can be either.....

in my hilt i dont like the LED in a switch.. and have a TCSS brass colored AV switch, only need 2 wires, and as before, no matter the die it on, since its a momentary AV

please let me know if anyone can confirm my thoughts that the 2 GREY wires are the power on/off for the hilt.. not the AV LED

The only way you can be sure is to trace each wire back to the battery pack/Obsidian board. Mark off the wires that go from the Obsidian board, and those that only seem to be connected to the battery pack directly. The battery pack feeds are the ones to eliminate from the non-illuminated switch. What I did was flag each wire with a number written on tape and I started the numbers going clockwise from the dot on the AV switch. Once the switch wires are labelled, you can snip them and then eliminate the LED power by removing the two extra wires, and then it's just a matter of reattaching the two control wires to your new switch.

[Genkaku Sho`shyk]

thanks eerockk, no switch was a attached before hand, i had specified that in my latest purchase the internals be left out of the hilt .. as i was "upgrading" from just sound to the full package... and decided, WTH??.. why not toss my friend a hilt.. and surprise him with the sound board?.. then i saw the winter deals!.... witch lead me to getting a free grab bag style initiate hilt!!!... for his brother!!!



i have some videos im working for the review, AND some GIFTING videos of them getting them fully finished,  my friend said his brother was drooling over the SD color an i had one from my first saber i bought... so i modded the initiate originally in AB for the LED SD.. i had to make a few mods to my friends reaper.. to get the switch it came with to be tightened in right, nothing big, small grooves inside for the nut to turn around ....    all in all... im hoping my review will count, alot of mess ups lol might take a few videos for it to been seen right.. lol

all in all .. i was afraid i would have to unwind the tape to see... thanks for the confirmation eerockk!.. im always telling people about your video of you holding your son from the end of the blade.. and how it was virtually undamaged... lol  love this forum, and i know, i have already planted the seed of addiction in my 2 friends

[eerockk]

Sick! Great job, man! More people to saber with can't be seen as a bad thing...

If you have everything gutted, setup should be a snap without having to worry about the switch LED to power. Please let us know how it goes or if you have any questions!

Thanks man. He's 51lbs now at 5 years old, so I should revisit that flex test video. I know the saber can hold him... 

[Genkaku Sho`shyk]

and another blade is simply looking up US and about 10each get another blade almost any size.. lol, love Ultrasabers!!!!!!

also have some clips of my soldering the azure reaper i got for my friend, so ill post it sometime this week