Purple rgb stunt saber help

[Darth Noir]

So I yanked out the electronics on my whole standard issue v2 double blades. The reason for this is that it wouldn't take long for the color to dull and turn red. I was going to convert it to running on two 3.7 trust fire batteries. I'd rather use a buckpuck than wires. Would I just wire the blue and red positives I parallel to the positive on a buckpuck and the negative just like usual? Or am I completely wrong.

[Ninja-Jedi]

yeah u wouldnt want to wire in series becasue 3.7V would not be enough voltage, wire the them in parallel also if u want longer runtime look at batteries with higher milliamp hours.

[Darth Noir]

Alright so how does this look

[Darth Vapour]

Looks good, I have posted in the other thread re getting an amethyst blade. Essentially you will need to resistor the red to get it.

[Darth Noir]

So I'm really confused. I have my parts I ordered. But I can't get my RGB LED to work. It's a 7.4v running to the RGB at a 1000mAh and a 2 ohm resistor to the red but I get. I light at all. The LED isn't burnt out but won't work.

[Darth Vapour]

Some RGB's are mislabelled, ie the ones from DX. Try attaching the pos to the tabs labelled neg, and neg to pos and see if it works.

[Darth Noir]

That worked! But something else is off, the output is...pathetic really. It's been a long time since these sabers worked so I don't remember if they weren't that bright. Also the color isnt a purple at all, it looks reddish at the bottom of the blade with a hint of blue at the tip (because the blade doesn't get fully illuminated. Compared to my rebel star green, which makes my whole room green even in the afternoon.  Did I do something wrong or does the LED just suck? If it is the LED what would be a good replacement?

[Ninja-Jedi]

are u using and ultrasaber LED module? what led and heatsink are u using, also forget the ohms what is the wattage on your resistor i think US uses a 3W resistor are u sure you are not over resistored, might wanna try a buckpuck

[Darth Noir]

Everything I'm using besides the battery was recycled from an ultrasaber standard issue violet amythest that I bought in the winter of 2010. When I pulled them apart they were powered by 4 AAA batteries and they had a 3w resistor and the Red diode had its own smaller resistor. Right now my current set up is a 7.4v 1400mAh li-ion battery with a 1000mAh buckpuck and I recycled the Red Diode's resistor for the same purpose.

[Darth Vapour]

Are your batteries charged? What lens are you using? I used the same setup but with a single li-ion 3.7V and got decent output. The other option is to direct drive them (ie main resistor, plus a red resistor) as it was in original setup. By the way, green is one of the brightest colours, so its hard to compare.

[Abraxus]

I have nothing but admiration for anyone who can do these kinds of things.  It was never my strong suite.  The most ambitious thing I have contemplated is replacing the 14500 Trustfires, with 18650s, just to get more ignite time from a charge.  But, with my limited electrical knowledge, I don't know for sure that would even accomplish it.

[Darth Vapour]

I have nothing but admiration for anyone who can do these kinds of things.  It was never my strong suite.  The most ambitious thing I have contemplated is replacing the 14500 Trustfires, with 18650s, just to get more ignite time from a charge.  But, with my limited electrical knowledge, I don't know for sure that would even accomplish it.

LOL Abraxus, yes it would acheive that. You would be surprised at what you are able to learn, and there is plenty of help on the forum too. I am presuming if you are changing to 18650's you are soldering in a new battery holder for them into the circuit. If you can do that then its not a huge step up from there. You have the basic equipment to get started. You can always draw up a wiring diagram and post for confirmation before starting. Also, don't solder the trickier bits until you have confirmed that thats the way you want to set it up, eg touch wires to led pads to confirm it works before soldering them on. Always happy to help.

[DarthCooper88]

 I ran into a similar issue building a saber to run a purple blade with a RGBA Ledengin, I ran the blue and red  in series and got major color seperation to the point of being so dissatisfied that I ordered a RRRR!  I ended up using the RGBA in my starkiller with R2 Igniter board with tru-color add-on. For one of the fonts I chose purple for the blade (with that system you mix it in real time on an application) The purple is very bright with no color seperation,(1000ma To the red and 1000ma to the blue)I believe that is working differently due to the fact that now the Red and Blue leds are  running in parallel ( I've read other threads elsewhere where others have had the same troubles creating purple. Again try parallel (2 seperate +'s and 2 seperate -'s ).