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Author Topic: Basic Build Guide Request (New Builder)  (Read 96759 times)
findisaiah
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« Reply #60 on: January 25, 2016, 08:23:40 PM »

Can I use a  blade from the other guys with a ultra saber hilt?
« Last Edit: April 10, 2016, 02:04:06 AM by Drahcir » Logged

Spades
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« Reply #61 on: January 25, 2016, 08:43:59 PM »

yes if your blade is 1 inch thick
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Dark Initiate v4 (4 channel Emerald w/ Obsidian v4)


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findisaiah
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« Reply #62 on: January 26, 2016, 03:23:47 PM »

All I have is a blade what exactly do I need to build a saber with a red blade?
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Spades
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« Reply #63 on: January 26, 2016, 04:12:56 PM »

All I have is a blade what exactly do I need to build a saber with a red blade?

I have answered this 3 times for you now in the form of links and resources and I think Dark Scrub has as well at least once. Quiet your mind and focus your attention.

you will need:
a body, and emitter, a pommel
a button to turn it on, an LED module, abattery set up, a buckpuck or resistors, a speaker if it has sound, a sound board if it has sound.

dig through your recent posts by clicking on your profile at the top of this page then finding the link to see recent posts. (at the bottom of the page) and find the links I am talking about.

Best wishes friend.

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Dark Initiate v4 (4 channel Emerald w/ Obsidian v4)


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KraytDragonPearl
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« Reply #64 on: April 10, 2016, 01:41:37 AM »

Can I use a blade from the other guys with a ultra saber hilt?


Based on the number of posts that you have I can see that you are new to the Forum,  please refrain from mentioning another saber manufacturer on this forum.  It is not polite and furthermore its against forum rules.  we simply refer them as "the other guys".  I hope the other forum members have been helpful in answering your questions regarding the parts that you need to create your dream saber.  

MTFBWY

KDP  
« Last Edit: April 10, 2016, 02:04:27 AM by Drahcir » Logged

Own: Lost Gray, Obsidian V4, Tri-C AS; Fulcrum, Obsidian V4, Tri-C AS; Nickel-plated Guardian, (Emerald), Obsidian V3; Arbiter, Obsidian V3, GB; Archon V3 Tri-C FO Obsidian V4; Manticore, Obsidian V3, VA; Phantasm V4, BH; Dark Sentinel, BR; Dominix V2, RGB; Dark Initiate V2 x3 (BR, CG, GB); Initiate LE V2 x2, CG.

Want: Bellicose, Prophecy V3


shade_1313
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« Reply #65 on: July 10, 2016, 11:32:20 PM »

Anyone know what US uses to attach the sound board to the battery/speaker pack?  They're clearly attached, but the epoxy that I tried didn't adhere to the battery/speaker pack.  If not US's method, how have you done it?
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Sabourok
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« Reply #66 on: January 21, 2017, 01:28:32 AM »

I am relatively new to the forum and so I am still going to search other threads, but this seemed as good a place as any to ask. If I was looking to make a blade that does the flash-on-clash effect, are there any additional or specific parts I would require?

Also does the Obsidian V4 soundboard have a motion detector for when the blade moves? I hope I am not simply blind and overlooked mention of such a feature. Electronics in general are a foreign language to me, though I am looking to learn as much as I can for my first build.
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Through Passion, I gain Focus.
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Through Serenity, I gain Strength.
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shade_1313
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« Reply #67 on: January 21, 2017, 02:03:25 AM »

I am relatively new to the forum and so I am still going to search other threads, but this seemed as good a place as any to ask. If I was looking to make a blade that does the flash-on-clash effect, are there any additional or specific parts I would require?

Also does the Obsidian V4 soundboard have a motion detector for when the blade moves? I hope I am not simply blind and overlooked mention of such a feature. Electronics in general are a foreign language to me, though I am looking to learn as much as I can for my first build.

Usually, an RGBW LED is used for FoC, plus wires and such, of course.  Ultrasabers does sell LED units that are prewired for FoC, in fact, making it a bit easier.  That said, the RGBW LED approach does have some drawbacks in terms of what flashes can go with what blade color, so bear that in mind.

While I haven't tried it, there are LED boards (that is, the star shaped circuit board that the LED dies are actually mounted to) that are made up of different combinations than the RGBW, but that will take a little more work to put together.  Also, you may need resistors depending on what colors or mixes you're looking to do, exactly.

The Obsidian boards do include motion detectors.
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Sabourok
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« Reply #68 on: January 22, 2017, 02:15:57 AM »

Ultrasabers does sell LED units that are prewired for FoC, in fact, making it a bit easier. 

I am currently working with an arctic blue LED unit from Ultrasaber, which is "made with multicolor RGB LEDs and combining two diodes to create the Blade Color."

I am assuming it is capable of FoC since it specifies that Tri-diode options are not compatible with FoC. I don't see the point of that being specified if the other options weren't compatible.


The Obsidian boards do include motion detectors.

This is very reassuring, thank you. I was unable to find explicit mention as such so I did not think my assumption would be safe to hold unconfirmed.
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There is no Light without the Dark.
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Through Knowledge, I gain Power.
Through Serenity, I gain Strength.
Through Victory, I gain Harmony.
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Benji
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« Reply #69 on: January 23, 2017, 03:39:45 PM »

I am currently working with an arctic blue LED unit from Ultrasaber, which is "made with multicolor RGB LEDs and combining two diodes to create the Blade Color."

I am assuming it is capable of FoC since it specifies that Tri-diode options are not compatible with FoC. I don't see the point of that being specified if the other options weren't compatible.


This is very reassuring, thank you. I was unable to find explicit mention as such so I did not think my assumption would be safe to hold unconfirmed.


Arctic Blue can have a silver FOC. There's a chart of the available FOC colors for each color here http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=3652.0

If you didn't order the LED with FOC enabled, then you will likely have to modify the LED to enable the FOC... And I have no idea how to do that, but I know it can be done as others have done it before.
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Sabourok
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Peace may only be achieved through Balance


« Reply #70 on: January 23, 2017, 07:21:28 PM »

Hopefully the last question I'll need to ask. I've recently found out about heat shrink being needed for soldering wires. What size heat shrink should I be looking for? The first page I see reference to using wire gauges 24, 26 or 28, but heat shrinks don't really tell what gauge they shrink to fit and the charts I find leave me spinning.
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There is no Light without the Dark.
Through Passion, I gain Focus.
Through Knowledge, I gain Power.
Through Serenity, I gain Strength.
Through Victory, I gain Harmony.
There is only the Force.

jedi06
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« Reply #71 on: February 24, 2017, 01:46:08 AM »

Maybe I did my math wrong but it seems like it is cheaper to just buy the saber already made than to do a DIY from ulrasabers.  Anybody else notice this?
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Darth Knox
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« Reply #72 on: February 24, 2017, 03:42:54 AM »

Maybe I did my math wrong but it seems like it is cheaper to just buy the saber already made than to do a DIY from ulrasabers.  Anybody else notice this?
Possibly. But imagine the satisfaction derived from having a saber that you can say you built yourself. Plus, if you wanted to upgrade/customise the saber it helps if you've already done a DIY build so you know what you're doing.

But, if budget is a concern, buying a ready built saber is probably the best way to go.
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Benji
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« Reply #73 on: February 24, 2017, 09:31:48 PM »

Maybe I did my math wrong but it seems like it is cheaper to just buy the saber already made than to do a DIY from ulrasabers.  Anybody else notice this?

True, I've run the math multiple times. To do a DIY saber with all US parts is more expensive.

The cost difference, though, (in my opinion) is negligible compared to the feeling of having a saber that I built with my own hands.
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Anger_fear_aggro---OH MY
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« Reply #74 on: April 01, 2017, 11:33:30 PM »

Well first off, you won't anger anyone on here for asking questions lol. We're pretty easy going group here. As to what you need, it's dependent on what you're looking for. If you're looking for a stunt build (no sound), then you'll want this list:

Body
Emitter
Pommel
(Note - Some bodies don't have interchangeable emitters)
Latching Switch
Battery pack
Batteries
Battery charger
LED
Blade

Here are some links for you:

Complete hilts - http://www.ultrasabers.com/category-s/78.htm
Bodies only - http://www.ultrasabers.com/category-s/90.htm
Emitters only - http://www.ultrasabers.com/category-s/88.htm
Pommels only - http://www.ultrasabers.com/category-s/86.htm
Battery Pack/speaker combo - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-sound-aacombo.htm
Obsidian board - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-sound-obsidianusb3.0.htm
Batteries and charger - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-electronics-battcharcombo.htm
BuckPuck - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-electronics-buckpuck1000.htm
LED module for V2 hilts - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/led%20module.htm
LED module for all other hilts - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/mls.htm
Latching switch - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-electronics-guardedlatching.htm
Momentary switch - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-electronics-guardedmomentary.htm
Mid-grade blades - http://www.ultrasabers.com/MG-Blade-p/blades-mid.htm
Which of these would I need if I fried my internals but have everything else?  Dominix V2

I got it from the grab bag, and weathered my saber to my content, but since I didn't want to risk taking it out the wrong way (I'm not remotely mechanical), I decided to soak half of it with all the parts inside aaand thus water+chemicals seeped somehow (even though the bottom was tight, it penetrated somewhere and poured out the emitter end).
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