The_Night
Knight Lt. Commander
Force Alignment: -38
Posts: 470
"If it's not fun, you're not doing it right"
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« Reply #15 on: June 16, 2011, 02:22:59 PM » |
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like i get wiring it in parrallel, but i just don't get how that keeps the AV light on when the main LED is off. if it's run parrallel to the main LED then wouldn't the feed be cut to the light in the switch when it is cut to the main LED? or was it run off the battery leads with a resistor and something to make it blink?...
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Vintage Graflex ANH Vintage Graflex ESB Custom Hero LS6- PCU JQ Quinlan Vos- PCU MR Maul Staff- P4 Reds MR Vader ESB FX UFX Vader ANH- Lux3 Red Larbel Obi TPM- CF v5.1 Parks Obi ANH
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Ultra
Lord Commander
Administrator
Knight Commander
Force Alignment: 1765
Posts: 2194
IN HOC SIGNO VINCES
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« Reply #16 on: June 16, 2011, 03:51:43 PM » |
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Ever thought of running the accent led directly from the power source?
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The_Night
Knight Lt. Commander
Force Alignment: -38
Posts: 470
"If it's not fun, you're not doing it right"
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« Reply #17 on: June 16, 2011, 06:49:14 PM » |
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...now that you mention it it seems i have more research to do. to wikipedia it is!
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Vintage Graflex ANH Vintage Graflex ESB Custom Hero LS6- PCU JQ Quinlan Vos- PCU MR Maul Staff- P4 Reds MR Vader ESB FX UFX Vader ANH- Lux3 Red Larbel Obi TPM- CF v5.1 Parks Obi ANH
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« Reply #18 on: June 17, 2011, 12:32:37 AM » |
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LED's still need to be current limited by a resistor. By the looks of the diagram there is no power transistor to control constant current so no constant current driver on board. Not sure why the resistor is omitted unless Vin = Vf of LED.
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Currently Own: Empty Shock Hilt
Former US Sabers (Sold them): Raven SS RGB, Catalyst Fire Orange, Guardian Pyrestone Orange, Consular VA, Dark Initiate Blue
Other (former, sold off) MR Luke ROTJ, MR Vader, MR Anakin, MR Mace Windu, MR Darth Maul Staff, Hasbro Luke, Hasbro Vader
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Novastar
Disgraced
Knight Arbiter
Force Alignment: 110
Posts: 284
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« Reply #19 on: June 17, 2011, 03:06:32 AM » |
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@Darth Turel... precisely, if you run Obsidian with a single Li-Ion cell, you have the option / ability to:
* Run the "main" LED with no resistor if the Vf is ~3.6v or ~3.8v * Run an indicator LED in similar fashion, directly off of the power source
Matching forward voltages IS obviously pretty important, but that also begs the question that... if someone is ordering the DIY Obsidian setup (so... it's obviously not installed into any kind of saber hilt with no LED included and no battery solution)... they'd better DARN WELL BETTER know what they are doing!
I've "directly driven" Luxeon III, Seoul P4, Luxeon V, indicator LEDs and other similar LEDs in many sabers for 5+ years now. I can verify--it works just fine. If there are repercussions for not using resistors because I am aware of the Vf + battery solution, I have not yet ONCE seen them.
Again, this being said... for those who do NOT know what they're doing to play the "matching game" with batteries and LEDs... yes, always, always use a resistor, or some sort of current-controlling driver.
And the BOTTOM LINE is: if you're doing a DIY Obsidian project... EDUCATE YOURSELF on wiring, soldering, LEDs, current/voltage, "forward" voltage and everything else regarding the board PRIOR to wiring things up.
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Creator of the "BALANCE OF POWER" live staged-combat shows Licensed & experienced sabre fencing instructor Sound font engineer for "Crystal Focus" & Obsidian Creator of the NSCFCDs (CF Sound CDs) Co-Founder of Golden Gate Knights (SF) Co-Creator of NCSCS (Nova & Caine's Saber Combat System)
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TheOaf
Knight Lance Corporal
Force Alignment: 13
Posts: 45
Hrawr. Hrr. Etc.
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« Reply #20 on: June 22, 2011, 09:58:40 AM » |
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Is there any chance we can get a wiring diagram that shows how to wire a charge port?
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"Get in there! Get in there you big furry oaf!" "Sir, I must object. The smell emanating from that crevasse is most disagreeable."
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Novastar
Disgraced
Knight Arbiter
Force Alignment: 110
Posts: 284
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« Reply #21 on: June 22, 2011, 08:30:15 PM » |
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Ooo, good one! I forgot about that, d'oh. Either way, a charge port is essentially "feeding" the batteries with current from your charger. In other words, think of it like the charger "acting" as the batteries. In MORE other words... you wire your charge port into the positive and negative lines of the battery. To have a kill + charge... you'll need to use the third pin of your choice of charge port so that when a plug is inserted... it cuts power to the board. Depending on your own wiring, you can cut either the + or - line (or both if you have a 4-pin solution!)... but thus far, I think we've traditionally cut the positive [[EDIT]] NEGATIVE line. I may have DID forget ... lol So, the short answer is... connect your port to the + and - lines of the battery lines. EDIT / UPDATE: I had Ultra add in my own "more simplistic"(?) wiring guide with a pin configuration into the first post... but here it is on its own: http://www.saberforum.com/Obsidian Wiring2 (Novastar).jpgEventually, color-coordinating the wired would be smart too... but--we'll see how it goes. The pin configuration should make it pretty easy to get it right--even if you're new to wiring.
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« Last Edit: June 23, 2011, 09:01:24 PM by Master Novastar »
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Creator of the "BALANCE OF POWER" live staged-combat shows Licensed & experienced sabre fencing instructor Sound font engineer for "Crystal Focus" & Obsidian Creator of the NSCFCDs (CF Sound CDs) Co-Founder of Golden Gate Knights (SF) Co-Creator of NCSCS (Nova & Caine's Saber Combat System)
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Machinimax
Force Sensitive
Force Alignment: 0
Posts: 9
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« Reply #22 on: June 22, 2011, 11:51:22 PM » |
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Ooo, good one! I forgot about that, d'oh. Either way, a charge port is essentially "feeding" the batteries with current from your charger. In other words, think of it like the charger "acting" as the batteries. In MORE other words... you wire your charge port into the positive and negative lines of the battery. To have a kill + charge... you'll need to use the third pin of your choice of charge port so that when a plug is inserted... it cuts power to the board. Depending on your own wiring, you can cut either the + or - line (or both if you have a 4-pin solution!)... but thus far, I think we've traditionally positive [[EDIT]] NEGATIVE line. I may have DID forget ... lol [[EDITED by Nova to lessen confusion--cut the negative line with your ports, it's more consistent + safer for everyone]]So, the short answer is... connect your port to the + and - lines of the battery lines. EDIT / UPDATE: I had Ultra add in my own "more simplistic"(?) wiring guide with a pin configuration into the first post... but here it is on its own: http://www.saberforum.com/Obsidian Wiring2 (Novastar).jpgEventually, color-coordinating the wired would be smart too... but--we'll see how it goes. The pin configuration should make it pretty easy to get it right--even if you're new to wiring. Excuse me Novastar but don't you also have to wire the the positive and negative leads of the board to the recharge port as well? I'm getting this from the wiring diagram for recharge ports that Erv' made. Just checking. Thanks! http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/RechargePort.jpg
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« Last Edit: June 23, 2011, 09:02:13 PM by Master Novastar »
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Caine
Disgraced
Knight Commander
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Posts: 507
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« Reply #23 on: June 23, 2011, 06:05:55 AM » |
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Yes, just follow that diagram and you will be fine. The wiring diagram posted is to a standard battery pack.
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Novastar
Disgraced
Knight Arbiter
Force Alignment: 110
Posts: 284
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« Reply #24 on: June 23, 2011, 08:59:55 PM » |
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Excuse me Novastar but don't you also have to wire the the positive and negative leads of the board to the recharge port as well? I'm getting this from the wiring diagram for recharge ports that Erv' made. Just checking. Thanks! http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/RechargePort.jpgTo clarify, I mention that you need to wire the recharge port into the battery lines. When you think about it more specifically (sorry, I wasn't THIS specific)... THOSE lines lead right into the board. The battery lines, that is. So, by default: * If you wire your charge port's + into the battery's +... * and you wire your charge port's - into the battery's -... * GUILT BY ASSOCIATION!!! The charge port is now connected to the board. This is also why you really should / MUST "cut" one of the lines (via the 3-pin setup of a port) to essentially take the board out of the circuit loop when your saber is charging. That is why you see that Erv shows that you "cut" the negative line when a plug is inserted. And btw... yup, I got that wrong/reversed in my original post about which line to cut--we tend to cut the NEGATIVE line, not the positive. Although--again, to be very specific--it really does not matter WHAT line you decide to cut to the board... as long as you DO it. The reason we all try to do the same thing is... that way if you want to charge someone else's saber--you aren't offering them reverse polarity, etc. Just be consistent with your own wiring.
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Creator of the "BALANCE OF POWER" live staged-combat shows Licensed & experienced sabre fencing instructor Sound font engineer for "Crystal Focus" & Obsidian Creator of the NSCFCDs (CF Sound CDs) Co-Founder of Golden Gate Knights (SF) Co-Creator of NCSCS (Nova & Caine's Saber Combat System)
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Machinimax
Force Sensitive
Force Alignment: 0
Posts: 9
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« Reply #25 on: June 23, 2011, 09:21:23 PM » |
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To clarify, I mention that you need to wire the recharge port into the battery lines. When you think about it more specifically (sorry, I wasn't THIS specific)... THOSE lines lead right into the board. The battery lines, that is. So, by default: * If you wire your charge port's + into the battery's +... * and you wire your charge port's - into the battery's -... * GUILT BY ASSOCIATION!!! The charge port is now connected to the board. This is also why you really should / MUST "cut" one of the lines (via the 3-pin setup of a port) to essentially take the board out of the circuit loop when your saber is charging. That is why you see that Erv shows that you "cut" the negative line when a plug is inserted. And btw... yup, I got that wrong/reversed in my original post about which line to cut--we tend to cut the NEGATIVE line, not the positive. Although--again, to be very specific--it really does not matter WHAT line you decide to cut to the board... as long as you DO it. The reason we all try to do the same thing is... that way if you want to charge someone else's saber--you aren't offering them reverse polarity, etc. Just be consistent with your own wiring. Ok gotcha. I actually took another look at your wiring diagram video and between this post and that, I see what you're saying. Thank you very much and if I may, I saw your Balance of Power shows and I have to say AWESOME!!!
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GdFuzz
Knight Lance Corporal
Force Alignment: 1
Posts: 57
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« Reply #26 on: June 25, 2011, 01:47:12 PM » |
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After "testing" out the board for the past few days, I'm really impressed... I plan to order another for my personal saber, which is now running a mr vader board... It'll be running a p4 white, 4.8 pack, with a 1.5 resistor... I should be able to get this in the next few weeks, and I'll post a vid after the install... Like Nova and Caine have said, the wiring diagram isn't hard to follow at all, as long as you've wired a saber before... I'm looking forward to the install, and sharing the results afterwards....
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Novastar
Disgraced
Knight Arbiter
Force Alignment: 110
Posts: 284
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« Reply #27 on: June 25, 2011, 10:30:47 PM » |
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I actually don't want to de-rail this topic too much, but... hmm, you have a 4.8v pack and a P4 white (3.25 - 4v). If I were you, by my calculations, I wouldn't go quite that strong with the resistor--I'd say you'd only need maybe a 1ohm resistor, or ok, possibly you'd try 1.2ohms in case you thought it might get too hot / etc. 1.5 will work... but, you might consider trying to get the maximum brightness out of the thing.
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Creator of the "BALANCE OF POWER" live staged-combat shows Licensed & experienced sabre fencing instructor Sound font engineer for "Crystal Focus" & Obsidian Creator of the NSCFCDs (CF Sound CDs) Co-Founder of Golden Gate Knights (SF) Co-Creator of NCSCS (Nova & Caine's Saber Combat System)
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GdFuzz
Knight Lance Corporal
Force Alignment: 1
Posts: 57
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« Reply #28 on: June 26, 2011, 01:47:12 AM » |
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Thanks for the reply Nova... I actually just ordered a white rebel from TCSS that is supposed to put out 320 lms..... The voltage is just a bit lower than the p4, so I'm gonna go with the 1.5 just to be safe... Looking forward to putting this diagram to good use next week..
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darth tratus
Knight Commander
Force Alignment: -241
Posts: 2117
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« Reply #29 on: June 28, 2011, 11:45:53 PM » |
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ultra mentioned it uses a wring harness. does any1 know what kind?
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