Li-Ion Battery Setup HIGHLY RECOMMENDED (Please Read Me)

[Molina00]

I recently ordered a saber with the standard setup. This may be a silly question but what are the downsides of this compared to the Li-Ion setup? This saber won't have sound so I'm just curious if the LED won't be as bright or if the Li-Ion batteries would last longer. Basically, are there any performance differences? Thanks!

I don't notice that much difference in brightness and the standard AAA setup has a much better shelf life than the Li-Ions.  I got some stunt sabers last year that I still have the original batteries in and they are still going strong with only occasional use.  I don't know what color you chose but I think the Li-Ion and buckpuck setup works better when it comes to mixed colors like VA, SRD, AB, and the forum colors.  Overall I think you should be fine in going with the standard setup.

[stell869]

That works for me. Thanks for the info!

[Ziran Le]

I have recently experimented with finding answers to several of these questions and I started a thread in the Technical section to discuss my findings using NiMh rechargeable batteries.  Apparently, not many people do this, or at least they didnt comment on it.  Here are a few things that I have learned in the past month, other than what people have already mentioned here.

1.  NiMh rechargeable batteries are a great option for your stunt, AAA battery setup.  If you don't use these and you DO use your saber much, you'll spend a lot of money on batteries.  Using regular Alkaline AAA batteries you'll get around 1-2 hours of blade runtime, more with better quality Alkaline batteries.
2.  When buying NiMh batteries, most take 4-8 hours to charge, regardless of the "green light" on the charger.  There is a distinct difference in pulling the batteries off of the charger and putting them in the saber after 1 hour of charging, than there is after 4 hours of charging, using 2 different chargers that I've tried with Ni-Mh batteries.  This is not to say that this holds true for the Li-Ion batteries and chargers sold by US.  I've been leaving 8 NiMh AAA size batteries on my charger overnight to get maximum charge and they run longer when I do.  Oh, and my charger is a "smart charger."
3.  When buying NiMh rechargeables, DO NOT BUY THE NO NAME BRAND EBAY CHINESE BATTERIES!!!  They lure you in with cheap prices and grandiose claims such as 1500-2000mah power and only $10.00 for 24 batteries, shipped!  These are garbage; I know, I tried 48 of them in different colors and from different sellers on ebay...all garbage, they get you 30 minutes of blade runtime before they are done.
4.  BUY GOOD QUALITY NiMh rechargeables!  They don't cost that much more and they give better runtime, despite what the mah rating is.  The Energizer, Sanyo Eneloop and Tenergy (Premium or Centura) batteries all have lower reported mah rating than the cheapo ebay batteries, and they all last longer, because the cheapo batteries misrepresent their capabilities.  Go with name brand.
5.  Regarding LEDs, US uses multiple different kinds of LEDs.  It was explained to me that the standard LED modules used are either 5 or 6 watt LEDs.  These are the ones that you find in the stunt sabers.  In the sabers with sound and flash on clash, they use 10 watt LEDs which are...(wait for it)...twice as bright!  I own 4 sabers now, 1 with sound and 4 stunt with AAA batteries.  There is no comparison between them in brightness.  10 watt LED with sound and FoC is so bright it hurts your eyes in total darkness.  The stunt setups are still nice, but won't "WOW" you with their brightness, regardless of what brand battery you use in them.

[stell869]

I have recently experimented with finding answers to several of these questions and I started a thread in the Technical section to discuss my findings using NiMh rechargeable batteries.  Apparently, not many people do this, or at least they didnt comment on it.  Here are a few things that I have learned in the past month, other than what people have already mentioned here.

1.  NiMh rechargeable batteries are a great option for your stunt, AAA battery setup.  If you don't use these and you DO use your saber much, you'll spend a lot of money on batteries.  Using regular Alkaline AAA batteries you'll get around 1-2 hours of blade runtime, more with better quality Alkaline batteries.
2.  When buying NiMh batteries, most take 4-8 hours to charge, regardless of the "green light" on the charger.  There is a distinct difference in pulling the batteries off of the charger and putting them in the saber after 1 hour of charging, than there is after 4 hours of charging, using 2 different chargers that I've tried with Ni-Mh batteries.  This is not to say that this holds true for the Li-Ion batteries and chargers sold by US.  I've been leaving 8 NiMh AAA size batteries on my charger overnight to get maximum charge and they run longer when I do.  Oh, and my charger is a "smart charger."
3.  When buying NiMh rechargeables, DO NOT BUY THE NO NAME BRAND EBAY CHINESE BATTERIES!!!  They lure you in with cheap prices and grandiose claims such as 1500-2000mah power and only $10.00 for 24 batteries, shipped!  These are garbage; I know, I tried 48 of them in different colors and from different sellers on ebay...all garbage, they get you 30 minutes of blade runtime before they are done.
4.  BUY GOOD QUALITY NiMh rechargeables!  They don't cost that much more and they give better runtime, despite what the mah rating is.  The Energizer, Sanyo Eneloop and Tenergy (Premium or Centura) batteries all have lower reported mah rating than the cheapo ebay batteries, and they all last longer, because the cheapo batteries misrepresent their capabilities.  Go with name brand.
5.  Regarding LEDs, US uses multiple different kinds of LEDs.  It was explained to me that the standard LED modules used are either 5 or 6 watt LEDs.  These are the ones that you find in the stunt sabers.  In the sabers with sound and flash on clash, they use 10 watt LEDs which are...(wait for it)...twice as bright!  I own 4 sabers now, 1 with sound and 4 stunt with AAA batteries.  There is no comparison between them in brightness.  10 watt LED with sound and FoC is so bright it hurts your eyes in total darkness.  The stunt setups are still nice, but won't "WOW" you with their brightness, regardless of what brand battery you use in them.

Very good to know. Thank you!

[Tenchi-Arizonia]

Currently LIthium ion is out of my budget. Will see how My Dominix V3 LE holds up with the standard setup (When it arrives.) But may eventually get it upgraded to the lith ion with buck puck.

[spyrl]

I was looking at the charger/battery section and I saw these two options:

Li-ion Setup with BuckPuck (Batteries & Trustfire Charger included)
and
Li-ion Setup with BuckPuck (Batteries and VP) Charger Included [Add $7.50]

I didn't see any documentation or forum posts on the VP BuckPuck charger, although I read through the VP charger information under the Build your own lightsaber Parts section.  For us newbies, hopefully someone can answer (and maybe update the main post) some basic questions about them:
What's the difference between the Trustfire and the VP?
What is the benefit of using a VP charger over the Trustfire?

Thanks!

[Ziran Le]

The VP charger is a new option.  There is a video provided by US regarding battery setups and this explains the VP1 charger.  It can be found on the section where you order your battery configuration.

Take a look and it should answer your questions.

Oh, and on a side note, if you order those VP1 chargers from virtually any online retailer separately, they run you anywhere from $34.99 to $49.99, just for the charger.  Sounds like a very good price point from UltraSabers to upgrade your charging capabilities for less than $10.00!

[spyrl]

Thanks for the info Ziran Le.  I'd watched the video a while ago, but I didn't remember seeing anything on the VP chargers, so it must be something they added with the updated video.  I do think it would be helpful if they updated the main post with the VP information, especially since when I was doing research earlier I was looking at it on my phone and it doesn't do video.  Yay for non-smart, smart-phones Also, since I'd watched the video a while ago, it never occured to me that it was a new one either, mea culpa.

The VP charger does sound like a good deal.  It definitely seemed more user friendly than the Trustfire and more versatile, although the Trustfire is more "idiot proof" in that you will have a harder time screwing it up, unlike the VP which you can set to the higher charge setting and could damage your batteries if left on it for too long.

[fernicus]

Hi
have an ultrasabers lightsaber and love it after having a master replicas one but light stopped working.  When checking the batteries realized one doesn't take power any longer.  I was gifted this from my cousin and don't have the original charger just the saber and the original batteries.  I tried using a regular battery along with truefire one and light works!  Can I use other batteries ie nimh ones or do I have to reorder Truefire ones?  will any batteries do?  can I also use regular charger I have now?  thanks

[Racona Nova]

You can't use other batteries than the TrustFire Li-Ion batteries when the saber came with the Li-Ion setup!! Only these provide enough power to both the sound board and the LED. And you also need a Li-Ion battery specific charger, never use regular chargers for Li-Ion batteries!

If you have a dead battery, order a new set - or better a set together with US's new VP1 charger, these are capable of reviving dead cells in most cases. The normal TrustFire charger also offered by US can't do that.

[Copperhamster]

Even for single color stunt sabers there's a noticeable difference between a buckpuck/Li-ion combo and normal AAA's. (I actually use something that's not a buckpuck but I had on hand (does the same thing, not as rugged), and a quick disconnect so I can move the 'unit' to whichever saber I prefer to have it in at the time).

BTW throw the extra money at the charger port. You'll thank yourself. (Idea for custom builders or US guys, the charger port looks almost the right size... charger port mounted through the covertec wheel anyone? eh? eh?)

[Racona Nova]

And how would you secure the Covertec Wheel? Using a threadened port wouldn't work very well, I think, and you can't use a screw because its place would already be taken by the port

[Copperhamster]

The practical person in me says, "You're right, impossible."

The trained mechanical engineer in me says, "How could this work?"

So here are my thoughts. Most ports have threads on them. Not all, some are for flush mounts. I don't know what the saber builders tend to use.

You need a new design for the covertec wheel, in two parts:
The saber bit that fits onto the saber's curve. It would have the curved part, with a counter sunk hole, just wide enough to fit the jack all the way through, and wider (covertec wide) 'above' that.
The wheel itself would be threaded to fit over the charging port.

Mechanically, it wouldn't be quite as strong as a normal covertec but I bet it would work, depending on the size of the recharge port. Again I don't have one (which is why I recommend them).

[Racona Nova]

I think US uses a port design that sits flush with the hilt. All ports (the old 2.5mm and new 2.1mm) on my sabers sit flush and don't protrude from it.

Your system sounds quite good. If you manage to make it as rigid as the setup US uses right now, then it might work I suggest posting that in the Suggestions thread as well

[Copperhamster]

I think US uses a port design that sits flush with the hilt. All ports (the old 2.5mm and new 2.1mm) on my sabers sit flush and don't protrude from it.

Your system sounds quite good. If you manage to make it as rigid as the setup US uses right now, then it might work I suggest posting that in the Suggestions thread as well

I lack the tools and the skills to manufacture such a thing. If I had access to a CNC machine I might could program it to do the job...

Probably wouldn't work anyway, was just a weird idea.