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Author Topic: How I make PVC shrouds for my sabers: Photo Tutorial  (Read 70213 times)
srams
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« on: January 03, 2014, 10:07:48 PM »

I thought I'd share some knowledge here, this is a simple way that I make my PVC shrouds for my sabers. I don't have all the latest or greatest shop tools, and I doubt most of us do. This is a photo tutorial, I'll try to narrate the best I can, bear with me...

Note this only works for US sabers 1.45" in diameter, most of the lower end, more affordable sabers, should work. V3 initiates/dominix/aeon sabers only. V2 sabers are too narrow for sched. 35, sched. 40 may work for the V2's but I'm not sure.

To start here's the materials I start with:



And the tools that I do have to use. More commonly accessible to most of us I hope. What you don't see are safety glasses and a dust mask. I absolutely recommend using them. I did, even though they aren't shown here.



First step, cut the edge as straight as you can. I use masking tape to get a straight edge. Then draw on the PVC overlapping the tape with a sharpie. Remove the tape and cut along the line you just drew. I use my Dremel with a thin kerf emory cutting wheel to make all cuts in the PVC.



Then get a cardboard paper towel tube. Flatten it in half, draw your design on it, keep in mind it will expand when you make the tube round again, so draw your design with that in mind, you want to avoid making it too small or too big in proportion to the PVC.



Cut out your design with scissors or a razor. If you design it in such a way it should be symmetrical when you make the tube tube shaped again.



Open the tube so its tube shaped again, cut your design straight down the spine, put it around your PVC, then tape it up. Then trace the cardboard tube on the PVC.





I use my emory wheel, and sanding wheels to cut and finish the PVC.



After its cut use the sanding wheels to clean up the cuts. You will probably spend a lot of time on this step.



The final piece should resemble your cardboard cut out.



Then after its all clean and pretty place it over your saber it should fit nice and snug. If its tight, use some sand paper on the inside of the shroud.





You can then color it any way you like.

Here's another shot with another lower shroud I made using this technique.



I'm going to try this with a metal sink tube soon, I'll reply back as to how well or not it works.

I hope this helps anyone who wants to try making custom shrouds! I'm always happy to answer questions, and I'm always open to criticism, and of course praise! Wink
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BenPass
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« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2014, 10:12:49 PM »

Thank you very much for that tutorial! I had never thought of using paper towel rolls to set out design (and template) beforehand. Very nice!
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srams
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« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2014, 11:04:45 PM »

You're welcome! I stared making them this way like three-four months ago. I saw the cardboard tube and it just clicked. And they are almost an exact fit over the PVC. They're easy and cheap, and the tubes are much more expendable and much easier to work with than the PVC. Right now I have a collection of about 10 tubes.

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« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2014, 11:35:10 PM »

This is fantastic! Can't wait to try it out! Point given!
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« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2014, 11:38:48 PM »

What size for say an Overlord? I'd like to get back into shroud making again myself. Are any screws needed to secure the shroud on or no? Still might work on my SRD Dominix V2 LE as well.
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srams
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« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2014, 03:04:25 AM »

It actually might work for the overlord and other MHS sabers too, not sure if they are narrow enough though. You can secure it with screws, but most of the time the fit is so snug you don't need them.
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« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2014, 07:21:59 AM »

Great tutorial and welcome share!

I like the prop leaves Smiley

Custom shroud really makes the saber your own.
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srams
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« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2014, 08:40:14 AM »

 Grin, the leaves were just there, but they do add some character!

One thing I forgot to mention was how to drill your blade retention screw hole. Have fun! Just kidding. Its very tricky, I put the shroud on the saber with the retention screw removed, feel the hole on the inside of the saber with my finger, and try to match the other side of the hole on the PVC side and mark it with a sharpie. I drill a larger hole than the hole for the screw, to allow for some margin of error. I hope that helps, like I said its tricky.

Or you could always just drill and tap a new hole where ever you wanted it.
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"I looked my demons in the eye and said, do your best to destroy me. See, I've been to hell and back so many times I must admit you kind of bore me."

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« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2014, 02:44:47 PM »

You could always try measuring the vertical distance from the edge and make sure it is central. Or you could first mark the cardboard, that way you could feel for the hole from the outside perhaps?
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« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2014, 07:47:47 PM »

That's amazing and with a coat of paint added im sure it will look even better points to you my friend
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« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2014, 08:56:31 PM »

Nice. Let me know about the Overlord when you can. =]
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« Reply #11 on: January 05, 2014, 01:33:59 AM »

I don't think I can say anything that hasn't been said before. Nice job! (+1)
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« Reply #12 on: January 05, 2014, 02:06:30 AM »

Ditto.
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srams
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« Reply #13 on: January 05, 2014, 09:51:28 AM »

Nice. Let me know about the Overlord when you can. =]

I don't actually own any of the US MHS sabers, i.e. Overlord, Archon, etc. So I'm not sure it would work. In theory it should the pommel of the initiate is the same 1.45" diameter, and also MHS so I'm guessing it would work for the other MHS sabers, which should also be 1.45" I can't guarantee it, but I've been dying to try it! Im going to buy an Arbiter as soon as I can afford it and I'll experiment.
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« Reply #14 on: January 05, 2014, 03:59:10 PM »

Dope... I'm going to have to try that soon.
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