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Author Topic: Quick DIY recharge port install on your Ultrasaber  (Read 4644 times)
Master Bluespike74
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« on: January 14, 2014, 08:01:39 PM »

I have had this asked of me in the past and it has arrived.  The following video will show you how to install a recharge port on your Ultrasaber.  I used the Liberator V3 for this video that I am currently upgrading to sound.  

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU0zwFVJc98" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU0zwFVJc98</a>


It requires no drilling of the Ultrasaber.  You can do this with any stunt or sound saber.  If you are using a stunt saber with Li Ion batteries, your green wire should go to your LED ground since there is no soundboard ground to attach to it.  

This works awesome for grab bag sabers if you want to install Li Ion Batteries into it as well.  Great for saber enthusiasts on a budget.

When purchasing a charger, be sure to select the appropriate one.  Li Ion Batteries and NiMH Batteries cannot use the same charger.

Blue
« Last Edit: January 14, 2014, 08:09:02 PM by bluespike74 » Logged



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« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2014, 01:36:00 PM »

Nice work !
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Master Bluespike74
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« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2014, 03:58:51 PM »

Thanks,
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« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2014, 12:48:55 AM »

Hey blue a quick question for you. On installint the recharge port, how nesesary is it to use a pcb board to prevent the pack from over charging  with the 2 cell side by side 7.4 v  li-ion pack.
Thanks
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Master Bluespike74
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« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2014, 08:31:12 AM »

If the batteries do not already have a PCB board installed on them, you need to use one.  Li Ions have some hazards associated with them so anytime you can use safety features like a PCB, I recommend using one. 
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« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2014, 09:06:43 AM »

Thanks blue, I actually found my answer shortly after I posted. The pack  does have a pcb installed. So I figure that the pcb board is good if I where usin just the standard 14500 cells in the two aa holder and not if its a wraped and wired pack. Thanks again
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« Reply #6 on: March 16, 2014, 03:38:49 PM »

Blue, do you also have a clue how to upgrade a saber with an old 2.5mm port to the new 2.1mm port? My Aeons have the old one with that weird black square-shaped cover (see my review for a pic of them), and I'd like to have them changed to the new ones. What do you recommend for mounting so that it looks consistent with the silver hilt? Or would it make more sense to let US perform that conversion?
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Master Bluespike74
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« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2014, 06:18:28 PM »

Blue, do you also have a clue how to upgrade a saber with an old 2.5mm port to the new 2.1mm port? My Aeons have the old one with that weird black square-shaped cover (see my review for a pic of them), and I'd like to have them changed to the new ones. What do you recommend for mounting so that it looks consistent with the silver hilt? Or would it make more sense to let US perform that conversion?

I don't have the tools to install the square recharge ports so I highly recommend letting US do the conversion. 
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« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2014, 06:55:15 AM »

Alright, thanks!
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« Reply #9 on: December 18, 2017, 01:55:51 PM »

Hi! Do you have a tutorial on how to connect the wires on the recharge port to the correct parts of the battery pack / sound board?
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« Reply #10 on: July 23, 2018, 07:52:14 PM »

This is a great thread!  Smiley  I love the look of the port installed in the end as it looks so neat and tidy  Cool

Two questions... With the recharge port installed in the pommel like that, how much clearance space is there with the speaker? And, is there enough room for the wiring to pass by the speaker and lithium ion batteries and not be pinched, when plaited like you did? (I have an Initiate LE V4 and am thinking of doing the same for mine.)

Thanks
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« Reply #11 on: November 20, 2020, 01:59:12 PM »

reawakening this thread because that is a great location for a recharge - did not know that was possible.  great work
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