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Author Topic: Possibility of new LEDs in the future?  (Read 3015 times)
lexonio
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« on: July 18, 2011, 11:24:12 AM »

There are other sabersmiths on the market, and they seem to use a wide variety of different LEDs. Ultrasabers, however, sticks to the good old Lux III, while there are LEDs which are, for example, brighter(say, Ledengin 10W). So I've been wondering if there are any plans to adopt other LEDs to further enforce US' position as one of the most successful sabersmiths' companies.
And if no, why? Smiley
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« Reply #1 on: July 18, 2011, 12:03:48 PM »

That's a very good question!  I'm interested to see the answer myself.  I think the issue is that Ultrasabers makes sabers for the average Joe, so they want an LED that doesn't suck up huge amounts of energy and needs some specific type of power source or whatever.  Apart from that, I have no idea, that's just my feeling about it.  Also, it seems to me that the LEDs they use are super bright as is - any brighter and you wouldn't be able to wield them without blinding yourself!
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« Reply #2 on: July 18, 2011, 12:41:56 PM »

(unless I am mistake) The Lux III's are no longer being made, so once the surplus of stock (that these other smith's have) is depleted, you will never see a Lux III saber again.... (I do find this to be very sad personally, I LOVED a Few of the Specific Hue's (exp:  Bin-3 Cyan (Emerald) Bin-3 Royal Blue (Nearly Indigo))  Cry but that's just the way it is  Undecided...............)

I know that Seoul continues to make P4's, P5's, and P7's, so I don't think you'll see them disappearing anytime soon (same goes for the Rebel's)

Other than this, I'm sure we will see new technology advance over time, but what that will be, I HAVE NO FRIGGIN CLUE Wink lmao

(I would personally, Love To See Someone Use a 10W Black Light LED In The Construction of a Lightsaber, I think that would look SICK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
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« Reply #3 on: July 18, 2011, 05:16:00 PM »

US doesn't us the Lux III's, the standards are Rebel stars or P4's depending on the color. As for adopting different LED's i don't really find it necessary to go too far beyond that of the standard. They're already bright enough to light up an entire room at night, and be fully visible in daylight. LEDengin 10watt's are very expensive and not very practical to keep a saber the price US is known for (each LED retails about $30). i wouldn't mind seeing some 5 watt's added, but like i said it really isn't that necessary. most people wont even notice the difference tbh, only people that are looking for what kind of LED is in it will. i'm sure if you wanted you could request they put in whatever LED you want once the cso is opened, but like i said, is it really worth it putting that high end of an LED into it for such little extra?
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« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2011, 07:03:03 PM »

Visible during daylight? When it is sunny or overcast, i can never see the color, or barely see the color actually. It just looks like a plastic blade, no color really at all.
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LINK
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« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2011, 07:55:42 PM »

Since were on the topic... What LED set up does Ultrasabers use for color mixing... ie...   purple, Cyan, arctic blue, yellow  Huh  Is it a certain type of 3w RGB LED  Huh
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Caine
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« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2011, 08:17:53 PM »

Seoul P4's are PLENTY bright for what Ultra offers. The RGB LED's used for the color mixed sabers are also very bright as well.

When you get into higher end LED's, you get into higher cost points for sabers because of the higher prices of said LED and the required battery supply (you can't run a LEDengine 5W or 10W at 6V and have it be it's brightest).

And Lux III's are no longer used.

If you want higher end LED's, I suggest buying of the shops DIY kits and you can do your own installs, etc.
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« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2011, 08:49:01 PM »

We haven't used Lux III's in over 2 years unless specifically requested.  They have been discontinued since 2009.  We use Seoul P4's, Luxeon Rebel, Ledengine 5w, and of course RGB LED's.  What we use depends on application and availability.

The brightness gained by using a 10w Ledengine is not as dramatic as you would think, in fact, it's hardly noticeable and not worth paying $26 for an LED unless you need an LED with individually addressable dies.  They are an obsolete part now, so maybe the newer ones will be brighter, but we'll have to wait and see.
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« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2011, 10:32:03 PM »

I'm with Caine, on this one. What Ultra uses is fine.
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LINK
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« Reply #9 on: July 20, 2011, 11:57:39 PM »

Just to be clear on my end, I love what US uses !!  I am also familiar with LED engine 5w and 10w.  I was just curious what type of RGB led that US uses. Im assuming ( and I know I should'nt  haha )  that its a 3w  Huh   Anywho,  regaurdless of type, US puts out fine products and I will be owning a Raven with a red "crystal" very very soon !    "To the Dark Side , I am falling"
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Jedi Fry
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« Reply #10 on: August 05, 2011, 12:44:14 AM »

I just purchased and received the Consular saber. After less than an hour of total run time, the wires that were soldered to the led disconnected from both the positive and negative contact pads on the led board. When I contacted customer service about this I was told that the led in the saber was a LedEngin 5W Led and that it was a common and well documented problem with this type of led because the led is very difficult to solder. Has anyone else had this problem? I have searched but have not found any widespread complaints about this led on two saber related forums and and a general google search. So far I have only found one post that said it was more difficult to solder since the pads were not pre tinned and the waffer was thinner compared to other LEDs. I have been advised by customer service that I should have Ultra Sabers replace the led with a Seoul P4. Others on different forums have said that P4s have historically had this problem as well. Is the LedEngin 5W Led really that prone to failure due to it's difficulty to hold a soldered wire? This saber is new and has not yet been used in dueling so no jolts have been issued to it.

I'm looking for some feedback to decide what I should do and this is one of the few threads that mention the LedEngin 5W Leds.
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« Reply #11 on: August 05, 2011, 01:38:19 AM »

I just purchased and received the Consular saber. After less than an hour of total run time, the wires that were soldered to the led disconnected from both the positive and negative contact pads on the led board. When I contacted customer service about this I was told that the led in the saber was a LedEngin 5W Led and that it was a common and well documented problem with this type of led because the led is very difficult to solder. Has anyone else had this problem? I have searched but have not found any widespread complaints about this led on two saber related forums and and a general google search. So far I have only found one post that said it was more difficult to solder since the pads were not pre tinned and the waffer was thinner compared to other LEDs. I have been advised by customer service that I should have Ultra Sabers replace the led with a Seoul P4. Others on different forums have said that P4s have historically had this problem as well. Is the LedEngin 5W Led really that prone to failure due to it's difficulty to hold a soldered wire? This saber is new and has not yet been used in dueling so no jolts have been issued to it.

I'm looking for some feedback to decide what I should do and this is one of the few threads that mention the LedEngin 5W Leds.

My strongest recommendation would be to let Ultrasabers rectify the situation.  If you contacted Emory at shipping@ultrasabers.com then he most likely offered to fix the problem.

This forum is for discussion, it is not a place for official customer support.  If you have an issue with your saber or a service, email Ultra Sabers at shipping@ultrasabers.com 

Posting here asking for help with an issue will not likely get you the kind of response you are looking for.  You could get great advice, or you could get horrible advice that voids your warranty.  Don't take that chance, just go through official channels for support of your Ultra Saber.  It's quick, easy, and you'll be amazed at how good the service is!

Ultrasabers has some of the best customer service in the industry.  Give them a chance to fix it.

MAV
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Jedi Fry
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« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2011, 01:35:01 PM »

Perhaps I gave too much backstory in my attempt to explain why I was asking this question ....  sorry.... I'll try again.

I have been told that the LedEngin 5W Led has a common and well documented problem of being very difficult to solder and therefore is prone to failure as the wires easily become disconnected from the led board. Has anyone else had this problem? I have searched but have not found any widespread complaints about this led. I found one post that said it was more difficult to solder since the pads were not pre tinned and the waffer was thinner compared to other LEDs. It has been suggested by some that Seoul P4s are easier to solder and therefore more reliable. Yet others have said that P4s have historically had this problem as well. Is the LedEngin 5W Led really that prone to failure due to it's difficulty to hold a soldered wire?

I am not attmepting to recieve a substitute for customer service with this nor my previous post. I simply want feedback regarding other peoples experience regarding the reliabilty of the LedEngin 5W and the P4.

For the record - I have the highest regard for Ultra Sabers products and service - this is not the first nor last saber I have purchased from them. I have had other experiences with an unreputable "saber forger" that were awful and never resoloved - so beleive me I know the difference in the quality and class of Ultra Sabers.

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« Reply #13 on: August 05, 2011, 01:46:33 PM »

Forgive my assumption then!  I'll give you a first response as I too have never heard a complaint of this nature before either.  If you're the first one to post about the problem then maybe others just haven't opened up but it'd be good to know about such parts defects en mass if possible.  I hope we find out more.

MAV
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