Today I am going to present to the forum a costume accessory that I have been working on: a lightsaber scabbard. Now the first objection most of you will think is, "Why? Lightsabers don't need scabbards, and Ultra Sabers attach directly to a covertec clip attached to your belt." Those are completely valid observations. Here is my response. In the fictional Star Wars universe, lightsabers indeed do not require scabbards because there is no blade when the lightsaber is off. In our real universe, our Ultra Sabers require a very real polycarbonate plastic blade whether the saber is on or off. Although we have the option to attach our Ultra Sabers light saber to the covertec clip on our belt, there are times when another option, such as a scabbard, might be desirable. It goes without saying that you would not want to be wearing a scabbard while dueling, but for costume parties, conventions, etc., a scabbard might be a desirable costume accessory.
I started working on this project when I started preparing my costume to wear to the Wizard World comic con coming to St. Louis in May. I had just received the Malice as a raffle prize. The Malice arrived with a 32" standard heavy grade blade, but no covertec wheel. Emory advised me that the preferred place to mount the covertec wheel on the Malice was back by the pommel. So that's where I put it.
The downside to that location is that most of the Malice hangs below my belt, and the blade tip is hitting the top of my shoe. If the blade were 36", the blade tip would be dragging the floor.
The easiest way to solve the problem is to put on a shorter blade. That solution works except that I find removing the saber from the covertec clip somewhat awkward with so little of the hilt actually above the covertec clip. I'm also an old fashioned kind of swordsman. I like the action of drawing my blade out of a scabbard. Using a scabbard also allows me to use the longer blades because the hilt then is above the belt. There are other ways to make a scabbard besides the one I am about to show you, but this way is probably the easiest and least costly way.
I started with a 1" I.D. x 2 foot piece of standard PVC pipe. I chose to start with a 2 foot pipe because my arm reach is a little short, and 24" blades are the easiest for me to draw from the scabbard. The 1" O.D. Ultra Sabers blades fit very well inside the PVC pipe, and slide in and out very easily. This 1" x 2 ft PVC pipe is readily available at The Home Depot as an off the shelf item; no custom cutting required. To attach a covertec wheel to the PVC pipe, you will need the covertec wheel, a 1/8" drill bit, and an 8-32 thread tap. Drill a hole about 1" from the end of the pipe, use the tap to cut the threads in the hole, and attach the covertec wheel.
Do not overtighten the metal screw or you may strip the plastic threads! The PVC wall thickness is enough so that the screw will not stick out of the inside wall of the pipe.
Here's a picture of the pipe scabbard attached to the covertec clip.
Any Ultra Sabers lightsaber with a 24" blade inserted into this 2 foot scabbard will have about 2 inches or more of extra space inside at the bottom of the scabbard because of the 2 inches or more of the blade that is gripped in the hilt. With standard 24" Ultra Edge Mid-Grade blades, light-weight hilts like Prophecy, Overlord, Archon, Chosen One, Graflex, and Dark Standard will be balanced enough for the hilt to stay on top. Heavier hilts like Reaper require additional weight in the scabbard to balance the weight of the Reaper and keep the Reaper on top otherwise the Reaper will make the scabbard spin around and drop the Reaper on the floor. There are any number of ways to add weight to the scabbard. I had blade plugs and stainless steel BBs readily available so I used those. First I filled the blade plug with the BBs.
Then I wrapped the filled blade plug with black electrical tape.
Don't use more than 1 layer of tape or the plug won't fit in the PVC pipe! Despite the plug's snug fit, I drilled two 1/8" holes on opposite sides about 1 1/2" from the bottom end of the scabbard, threaded them with the 8-32 tap, and used two 8-32 x 3/16" long set screws to secure the plug in the scabbard.
Here the blade plug and set screws are partially inserted into the scabbard.
Here the blade plug and set screws are completely inserted into the scabbard.
Now with the additional weight at the bottom of the scabbard, the Reaper is well balanced and not only stays on top, but also quickly returns to the top after being rotated to a horizontal position.
Unfortunately, the same can't be said for much heavier hilts like the Scorpion and Malice. With standard 24" Ultra Edge Mid-Grade blades, both the Scorpion and Malice hilts immediately flip over and slide out. Even 24" Heavy-Grade blades are not heavy enough to balance the weight of the Scorpion and the Malice. Before I put the blade plug in the scabbard, the Malice was balanced as long as it had a 32" heavy grade blade. So I made another PVC pipe scabbard 30" long for the Malice and Scorpion. With the 30" scabbard and the 32" heavy grade blade, the Scorpion and the Malice are balanced and stay on top.
At this point any one of you who wants to make one of these can use your creativity to provide the scabbard with an exterior finish that will be compatible with your costume. The scabbard can be painted, wrapped with leather or other fabric, or finished in whatever way you like. I'm planning to finish at least one of mine with a black leather exterior. I'll post more pictures after I get that done. Also be aware, if you want to use a 30" or longer piece of PVC, you will likely have to custom cut a longer piece or have someone at the home improvement store do it for you. It will also mean paying for the extra length of PVC that you don't want. The only readily available lengths of PVC I could find either in-store or on-line were 2, 5, and 10 feet long.