LED module wiring

[cabo5150]

I have this LED module:
https://www.ultrasabers.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=LED%20Module
with these options:
[LED Color:Guardian Blue][Flash on Clash:Flash Silver][Install Quick Disconnect:Yes]

Here's what it looks like:


I have the wiring diagrams and understand them, however I'm not positive what the wires out of the LED module are and could use help identifying them.

Thank you!

[cabo5150]

Anyone? Bueller?


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[Racona Nova]

I think (don't take that for granted, I need to look at the disassembled module to be sure) that it's like this:

Violet wire soldered to the black wire of the red connector => FoC
Brown wire soldered to the black wire of the black connector => LED negative
White and blue wires soldered to the red wire of the black connector => LED positives

So, the black wire on the other part of the black connector needs to go to the negative and the red wire on it needs to go to the positive.

PS: Is it possible to unscrew the housing without twisting the wires too much? If so, may you do that and post a pic of the LED pad so that I can look at the solder pads? That would help a lot.

[Molina00]

I think (don't take that for granted, I need to look at the disassembled module to be sure) that it's like this:

Violet wire soldered to the black wire of the red connector => FoC
Brown wire soldered to the black wire of the black connector => LED negative
White and blue wires soldered to the red wire of the black connector => LED positives

May anyone of the more experienced DIY builders confirm that?

I have only done a handful of LED wirings myself and none with FoC, but based on what I have seen on my Ultrasabers with FoC that sounds right.  I like pulling the LED modules out and looking at the wiring, to see how the pros do it. 

[SAWeston]

I agree with Racona Nova. I tested the wires when I built my saber and that is what I got.

[Racona Nova]

Thanks Molina & SAWeston Good to know that I begin understanding how these saber electronics work...took me quite a time.

[Molina00]

No problem.  I think I have only done 4 wiring jobs so far, three with soundboards and none with FoC.  I have a ways to go but I am learning. 

You can also use a larger hex wrench to unscrew the housing using the hole in the middle of the heat sink.  I usually just grab hold of the wires and unscrew it though, it unscrews pretty easily that way.

[SAWeston]

No problem! 😊  I was really confused when I first wired mine, but luckily I knew some people that worked in electronics.

[cabo5150]

Guys I apologize I didn't get notifications of replies, still learning the tapatalk. I got the just from your descriptions and hopefully I'll get some time this weekend to wire and test everything.
Thanks


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[Molina00]

Good luck! 

[Racona Nova]

I forgot: the black wire on the other part of the red connector needs to go directly to the FoC terminal of the sound board.

[cabo5150]

Ok
I got it wired up last night, want to get a resistor before before I complete it. Anyone know offhand the resistor needed for the gardian blue?



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[SAWeston]

Great! 😁 I just used the buckpuck from US so I don't really know which resistor would be needed.

[cabo5150]

Now I'm wondering do I need a resistor on the FOC too?

[Racona Nova]

Do you have a BuckPuck setup on your saber? If yes, and I think so because you have sound where the BuckPuck is recommended, you don't need any resistors for your LED because the BuckPuck regulates the current to the LED. You would only need resistors on a die if you want to mix colours.
AFAIK you don't need any resistors on the FoC because it's the negative, only on the positive you need a resistor.

If you use a resistor setup along with sound, then I can tell you the forward voltage (3.7V) of the blue die. If you run it at a forward current of 1000mA, you can calculate the resistor needed from here.