Hey Gilgamesh- sorry I didn't see this sooner - sure I can help cause I'm messing with this exact type stuff ATM. did you ever figure out what was goin on with the batteries in the one set up? I had a hard time actually seeing your set up from pics, and couldn't really make out your description:
OK so need a bit of help. Got my new solid light LEDs wired 2 of them threw a 2x AAA batteries pack, hot outside red center, and I was able to turn it on and off. But then I noticed all of it was getting crazy hot, enough where the casing on batteries split. Figuring something was wrong I tired hot left and red right on second crystal chamber...while I can't turn it off, it don't heat up either so what should I do?
There's no reason why that shouldn't have worked if wired right? You can def rig up a little pack to switch to led set up, I do all the time for testing out ideas, and then can leave batteries in and just flip switch to kill chambers- actually if you wanted to get carried away you could even stick a recharge port into that so would never even have to take batteries out ever. It's all surprisingly simple to wire in, and the recharge ports are super cheap, I've even found those power jacks in old devices/ appliances/ computers for free lol
. You just ran the battery positive out to switch, then from switch out to each positive of led's separately on its own lead, then from the led's negatives out to negative of battery pack? also you'd need a resistor in there I think (but not sure what led's you got there, like specs?) but you can just use the same one for all your accent led's, share it in a sense.
So wether you have 2, 4, 8, 16 led's it'd all be the same simple set up in parallel- you'd have your bat pack, one single + (red) wire coming out of that, which you can run to one of the switch posts- now to make life easier and save space and $ just continue that positive by running it from the other switch post to a resistor right off the hop, since all led's the same you can do this and avoid needing a resistor for each one separately, if you can leave a little bit of wire/ room between the two so it can bend without putting torque on the connections- then take all your positive (red) leads of your led's and twist their ends together, and you can either put that right onto the other leg of resistor directly, or personally I'd put and inch n half of wire coming off the resistor, then hook my twisted ends onto that wire so there's a flexible joint there, like room to bend wire and not pry on the joint- then just twist all your negative (black) leads of led's together and connect that to the black/ - of bat pack, and that's a wrap
. Now you can switch your led's on or off, won't be any crazy shorts or heating
. IMO I think it's worth it to go with double bat pack because you can use rechargeables which saves $ in long run, and gives you higher output options- like if you used a aa pack you can use US trustfire Li ion's, which opens up another world of possibilities like a recharge port
. But either way, even if you go with coin battery can still insert a switch in this exact same way, so can mount that in pike somewhere and have handy switch for chamber.
I'm out at park with my dog ATM but i literally have a bunch of this stuff sitting on my bench at home lol
. If you wanna actually see what I mean I can throw up a video when I get back? MTFBWY
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