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Author Topic: Bulvoy's Leather Wrap Walk Through Tutorial Written with Pictures and Video Demo  (Read 20206 times)
Bulvoy
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« on: May 05, 2016, 01:10:04 PM »

Greetings everyone, as promised this is my version of how to leather wrap a Hilt. In this post there will be a resource guide, written picture Tutorial with my recent Menace project, and a short demo application walk through video.  Let me first say there is no right or wrong leather wrapping you do what you like, using cord is effective, practical however it can come loose, be bulky etc. Stitching has been a preferred method, is strong, looks good, has some definition but the seams can be uncomfortable on your hand with practical / combat  use.
                         This method was developed by myself and a few others over the years in the sword custom world to eliminate those drawbacks. I have modified it slightly for our SABERS. It allows you to combine  practical use,  High Strength, High definition, visual appeal  and opens the door for Creative designs. I stand by this method 110%. It If you are just looking for something fast, this is not for you.   Video Demo  with Written Detail  walk through picture guide. Hope you enjoy, and someone finds it useful. Put a few man hrs putting it together LOL.

Materials You will need :
Loctite 2-part epoxy- resin & hardner - various sizes, $5 - $16. - hardware stores
super glue (to tack down your risers/ cord/ design)
hooby knife/ scissors
leather round craft cord  ( 1/8th" for thinner, finer lines or 1/4" ) / O rings. - craft, hardware stores $1- $5
Ruler/ ruler cutting board etc - anywhere
painter's tape/ frog tape - anywhere
popsicle sticks- craft stores
rubbing alcohol
Q- tips
paper towels
small dish of water
Ribbon, yarn or rags
Leather of your choice ( explained  below)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 SPECIAL NOTE ,  yes you can get scrap leather from a cut up leather jacket, purse etc BUT if it Is NOT Real leather & already treated you will not be able to stretch it, like you want for this project,the results Will not be the same. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Mats & Leather by bulvoy, on Flickr
Leather Choice - Big topic. the basics to achieve what we are doing here. My go to standard favorite  is.
75 oz - 2 ounces MAX. . My normal thickness when buying is .75 - 1 1/2 oz.lambskin & goatskin. ** NOTE the
 thicker your leather & bigger your cord the harder it is to work with,and less detail as the thickness goes up.
why lamb or goatskin? they are strong yet Soft,easier to work with/ stetch and have small grains.
You can use deer, pigskin , ostrich etc.  I prefer Goatskin if i can , small pebble grains , soft.
size options: Whole hide/ half hides/ sample swatches , scraps. $5 & up.  where to buy?  from ebay to etsy, hobby store. etc,  the following is a few places i get mine from small pieces to full hides  at good prices
http://stores.ebay.com/dchapman05?ssPageName=STRK:null:MESST&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2653
http://stores.ebay.com/Wholesale-Leathers?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
https://www.etsy.com/shop/PeggySueAlso
https://www.etsy.com/shop/silkfabric?ref=l2-shop-info-name&section_id=5483457
VIDEO DEMO * Excuse my voice,i have a slight cold, I won't apologize for my 80's ROCK tunes Background
 Remember  this video is a walk through demo, further detail  is in the written guide  Pt.1- 17 mins . Pt.2 14 min.
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=De3pTBw2-Gw" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=De3pTBw2-Gw</a>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UQAG1foSjY" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UQAG1foSjY</a>

POOF z Finished Maglight Wrap by bulvoy, on Flickr
                                                                                     WRITTEN GUIDE
Prep :
1. I remove the Emitter, pommel, (covertec wheel  uses a 9/64th allen wrench) ,& batteries.( I do this to make it easier to work with). either way tape up the area's you don't want effected. when i take emitter & pommel off i stuff a tissue on the LED , then tape everything off.

2. Choose your design area. score ( scuff)  the entire area with  200 grit sandpaper, this adds extra strength for the epoxy to take hold. BE CAREFUL when around your AV switch, use some tape here if you need. when done  wipe it off with the rubbing alcohol,  to remove dust etc.

3. RISERS ( finger grooves), Designs. place them where you want.eye-ball it or if you prefer draw lines with a sharpie. for standard risers, simply hold it decide where you want them to go, mark it,  use your cord around the hilt, cut to fit on the backside, tack in place with your superglue. You can also use 1" O rings, they will be perfectly round if your worried about that. Being sealed inside of the leather with the epoxy, they will not degrade.

4. DESIGNS : use your cord make whatever shape/ lines you wish, tack down with superglue.. *** Note for beginners  try to avoid very sharp angles, due to it is harder to get High definition when you are forming leather around them. until you get a good feel for it & know the time limit you have until it starts to harden. Use gradual  meeting points. Line to line, don't leave a gap on this step, if you are going to do say a wave or swirl, use 1 long piece, tacking down small sections as you go hold for a few seconds until it sticks. Let dry 10 full mins.
2. design glues down by bulvoy, on Flickr
4b. Additional. For this project i removed , some of the decorative button screws, holes needed to be covered.I used this same epoxy mix to fill them EXCEPT i let the epoxy mix sit until close to hard then spread it on.Why? because I didnt want it to run into the Hilt. When fully hard, sand it down with until smooth.
2a. epoxy holes by bulvoy, on Flickr                                                                                    
5. Leather selected cut: take your piece you chose dry wrap it snug around your hilt, mark where you will need to cut. Now use a ruler measure your hilt to what is going to be covered, go back to your leather piece mark out  your lines, close to edge ( leave up to 1/16th" overlap extra  from end to end  this allows space when you go over your design you made. * Note if you have lots of riser designs , leave more , you can trim it later) Its OK if it seems a little short you can make it stretch when wet later.( The MAIN reason to use real leather , NOT pleather) . width around your hilt leave an extra 2" overlap. for youe meeting point.  we can trim everything later on with our hobby knife.
3.  Leather cut &amp; dry fit by bulvoy, on Flickr
6. AV switch : Tackle this by taking your cut piece dry wrapping it snug again make a center point mark with your sharpie on the leather over the av switch.  For the hole you have 2 options.
Option #1. use a 1/2" hole punch
Option #2. Household items,  place a Dime over your center mark you made and trace it out lightly with a pen.
 (I have done both,) hole is smaller than the Av switch which is good, and again when we wet our leather it will stretch to fit. When you cut your trace line stay INSIDE of your outline of the dime, go smaller if you wish, cutting off more as you are test fitting.
4.  hole for button cut by bulvoy, on Flickr
7. Leather application : First flip your hilt to backside,(opposite your AV switch). use the ruler mark a centerline down the hilt  STARTING POINT: 2 versions here. which i have done both to see the difference.#2 being a little easier if you are worried about the hole not lining up perfectly ,and are nervous for your first time.
Each version you start with mixing your epoxy squeeze 2 small puddles (1" in size) 1 of resin, 1 of Hardner, take your popsicle stick mix them together for 20 seconds.
Version #1
straight forward : lay your leather piece down inside faceing up, spread a THIN LAYER 1-2" wide section and down the length with epoxy using your popsicle stick. It Should be Gummy. go to your start point seam press down going from length edge to edge, re-position as needed, your goal here is to make the edge match the line you marked.  DAB some water from your fingers onto leather, small dabs, ( DO NOT OVER SATURATE). you will start to see leather change color, and feel it getting pliable/ stretchy, start forming around your risers/ design with a new popscile stick and your fingernails making sure to cover the entire area that you had epoxy applied to.When satisfied stop let sit 3 mins.
                    Resume sections mix more spread inside of leather ( Lifting up touching Previous spots where you stopped before.) AGAIN THIN layer is all you need, IF you Glob it you will get Bumps. Take your time.keep going, When you get to where your hole is for the switch do everything the same except, DAB some water on the outside of where your hole is to get it stretchy, Stretch over hole, , form around switch, with fingernails/ posicle stick until you feel it has taken hold. Keep going over areas as you wish, to keep the definition as you wish. let sit for 3 mins. Take some rubbing alcohol, and a Q-tip remove any excess glue from the switch housing, and anywhere you got some epoxy onto unwanted areas. keep going until you get  1" from your starting edge. STOP. Let sit 3-5 mins
5. moisten, spread, start by bulvoy, on Flickr
Version #2
 same application as Version 1, except we are starting around the Av switch. Lay leather down inside face up spread epoxy 2" wide ( making sure you cover the edges well around hole for Switch) , go lengthwise as before, press down lightly at first end to end  Position it straight as you can. DAB water onto outside surface little at a time, until it feels stretchy. start forming with fingernails/ new popsicle stick as Version 1.
                   Cover entire area where you have applied epoxy. Here use your fingernails, & popsicle stick to press firmly all the way around edges of switch until you feel it is gettign hard. when done let sit for 3 mins.  Take the rubbing alcohol & a Q-tip remove any excess epoxy from switch housing, and anywhere you got it onto. Continue on 1 side ( when re-applying Gently Lifting up leather to spread epoxy and touching where you had stopped before) line up with the l edge line you made on the backside of your hilt. Restart on other side  Keep going until you get 1" from the seam you already made. STOP. Let side 3-5 mins
6. Forming by bulvoy, on Flickr
8. ENDING SEAM. I have 2 methods, for this tutorial we are going to go with the " Butting method"  end to end because it is a easier, On my Menace i used this method just for this Tutorial.
Take your leather overlap it over your end you started with , snug. run your finger nail along the crease a few times,( makes a temporary line). now mark a line a little past the crease, past the original line. just a tiny bit, YOU WANT a little  tiny extra overlap  here, just a tad. ( because when you wet it you can smooth it out without stretching)
                     Now make your cut, apply epoxy mix, form it pushing ends together, pressing down, as it starts to take hold run your finger along the seam pressing down to make them meet, as well slide your fingers on leather genlty pulling it torwards the exisiting edge. Recheck form lines etc, When satisfied wipe any excess epoxy off your project with rubbing alcohol, and a paper towel. Let sit press on the seam  occasionally during the first 5 mins making sure the edges are down.
 7. end seam to seam by bulvoy, on Flickr
9.now for a double up measure i tie cord, or ribbon around my Riser/ finger groove lines, tie them off. then i wrap the whole project with ribbon or rags. let sit overnight. DOES NOT HAVE TO BE SUPER TIGHT. just snug. this epoxy has full Concrete like bond in 24 hrs.
8. tie off for drying by bulvoy, on Flickr
10. Next day Unwrap, check your edges on the ends where leather ends on your untouched hilt if uneven, take your hobby knife/ razor blade carefully trim it off. Finally If leather wasn't already treated i would reccommend a sealer/ conditioner for your lether so it holds luster over time, you can get Tandy leather sheen in satin or gloss, or if you prefer a easy avalible method go by some leather clear  sealer from any shoe dept. and dab on, rub in with your fingers.  Re- Assemble, you done , admire your work, and dont forget to share your creation.
9. Leather sheen by bulvoy, on Flickr
OPTIONAL Distress leather. here if you like you can create a " worn" look, easy ways scar it up with somthing sharp, or i like to sometimes take leather piece scrunch it up 9 can use an iron on light setting to make creases), unfold, you will have high points, here just take coarse sandpaper and go over the high points
10. Distress by bulvoy, on Flickr
    Other than the 3 sabers ive done   HERE are some Examples of some of my favorites iv'e done in the past, Sword related but the Principal is the same for our Sabers
11. Wrap Works by bulvoy, on Flickr
 Hope this was Helpful, if you want to practice, try it out on anything , a pipe, hammer handle , or a Mag Lite flashlight which is pretty close to the actual size of US Sabers.  have a question Feel free to pm me anytime.
 Only thing to remember about customizing anything is, You are Only limited by your own Imagination,  lots of practice as you get the feel for it you get better and can get some pretty cool results
    Bulvoy~







« Last Edit: May 05, 2016, 01:29:11 PM by Bulvoy » Logged

UltraSaber's by bulvoy, on Flickr
Menace - Emerald V4s- RavenSS pommel
Manticore V4s-CG- S /FOC-Renegade small pommel
Crimson Scorpion- V4s-BR- O/FOC
Dominix V3s-SRD
Initiate V4 Lite- VA
            "Im here to chew bubblegum & kick ass, and I'm all outta bubblegum"...

Drahcir
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Shiny saber you got there, let me fix that.


« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2016, 01:14:03 PM »

This is a really informative post - could see myself using some of the design tips on my own personal projects in the future.
Good work on this, +1
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Want your hilt customized? Visit my Thread and I'll do it for you : http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=24643

Bulvoy
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~Sipra Gehaz~ Rebel Legion "Ghost Base"


« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2016, 01:25:14 PM »

Thank you sir ! Use anything you like, It's a solid method, stuff is tough as concrete. (there is some more advanced Applications, pm me anytime) but i wanted to get this out as instructional as possible for people that wanna give it a go without being overwhelmed.
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UltraSaber's by bulvoy, on Flickr
Menace - Emerald V4s- RavenSS pommel
Manticore V4s-CG- S /FOC-Renegade small pommel
Crimson Scorpion- V4s-BR- O/FOC
Dominix V3s-SRD
Initiate V4 Lite- VA
            "Im here to chew bubblegum & kick ass, and I'm all outta bubblegum"...

Giglamesh
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« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2016, 01:36:12 PM »

I just squeed, once my grab bag comes in I'll be using your technique because it's so helpful and step by step good advising, gonna just chill here and give you points for a while XD
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Owned: custom Renegade LE Saberpike (blazing red), Consular stunt (green)

Wish list: Reaper (banes heart any finish), Menace (any color any finish)

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« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2016, 02:23:23 AM »

Just looking at the paper in your video, and at one point in that game, this was the score!

https://www.facebook.com/TheMLBMemes/photos/a.212223438878527.33964.212208148880056/789982141102651/?type=3&theater
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Predominantly Light, with a hint of Dark

Current Sabres - Graflex SE in GB & Obsidian V3, Prophecy in AB with AS FOC, Dark Prophecy in BR with FO FOC, both with Obsidian V3, Shock in TRI BR (QD's) & Obsidian V3, Diamond Lost Gray, Initiate V4 in CG with AS FOC and Basic Sound

Master Medwyn
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« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2016, 04:42:32 AM »

Megalike, thank you for sharing!
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Shield madien
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« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2016, 06:31:51 AM »

Very cool to make a guide Bul. Love the Gallery as well.
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scifidude79
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« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2016, 06:36:40 AM »

Awesome tutorial.  If I ever feel like leather wrapping a hilt, (something I'm thinking of down the road) I know where I'm coming to learn how to do it.  I love the work you did on the swords, thanks for posting those images too.

Have a point for this awesomeness.  Grin
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Krell
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« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2016, 05:52:11 PM »

Epic Sir ! Epic Job on this guide, made me feel i can do it, lots of information. seems like a good way if you are using leather. Also liked your comment , " Must have an obsession with dimes"  &   Evil the Sithy Maglight " had me laughing, have you ever considered doing work like this as a commissioned ? I am a newcomer here but this Really should be marked for easy access reading. some cool sword works on your examples, feel free to send me one Ha Ha +1
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JediXIX
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« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2016, 06:37:43 PM »

Bulvoy, if you see your points go up in the background, some will be me giving recognition to this outstanding information you're sharing with us all . . . Thank You Sir  Smiley
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Drahcir
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Shiny saber you got there, let me fix that.


« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2016, 07:00:29 PM »

I'm probably going to end up putting a sticky on this thread.
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sedstiskyfaller
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« Reply #11 on: May 07, 2016, 05:31:56 AM »

I'm probably going to end up putting a sticky on this thread.

I think you should.

This is a great tutorial and some fine work that you've done on both your sabers as well as the swords  Shocked  This will prove very helpful for anyone looking to add a fine leather grip to their saber (maybe even myself included). Have yet another point for your talent, Bulvoy  Wink
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Bulvoy
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~Sipra Gehaz~ Rebel Legion "Ghost Base"


« Reply #12 on: May 07, 2016, 08:28:34 AM »

have you ever considered doing work like this as a commissioned ? I am a newcomer here but this Really should be marked for easy access reading. some cool sword works on your examples, feel free to send me one Ha Ha +1
I already have in the past with some household  names in the sword custom world. it has it's ups and downs, here there are rules against ads etc, I just wanted to offer insight on my method, so anyone can do it, to show some appreciation back to this forum for the help on questions etc that I got from members when I first came here. to steal a phrase
" Pay it Forward ", but ty for your thoughts
Bulvoy, if you see your points go up in the background, some will be me giving recognition to this outstanding information you're sharing with us all . . . Thank You Sir  Smiley
Thank you kind words, I did my best trying to make it easy to follow.
I'm probably going to end up putting a sticky on this thread.
I'd Be Honored
I think you should.
This is a great tutorial and some fine work that you've done on both your sabers as well as the swords  Shocked  This will prove very helpful for anyone looking to add a fine leather grip to their saber (maybe even myself included). Have yet another point for your talent, Bulvoy  Wink
Thanks for the kind words, im glad the guide is helpful. Even if one person does it, ill be proud.
I Love My sabers, Authentic combat ready swords will always be my mistress Wink
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UltraSaber's by bulvoy, on Flickr
Menace - Emerald V4s- RavenSS pommel
Manticore V4s-CG- S /FOC-Renegade small pommel
Crimson Scorpion- V4s-BR- O/FOC
Dominix V3s-SRD
Initiate V4 Lite- VA
            "Im here to chew bubblegum & kick ass, and I'm all outta bubblegum"...

Drahcir
Keeper of Ancient Artifacts
SaberForum.Com Moderator
Knight Commander
*****

Force Alignment: -970
Posts: 3004


Shiny saber you got there, let me fix that.


« Reply #13 on: May 07, 2016, 12:52:42 PM »

Sticky applied.
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Want your hilt customized? Visit my Thread and I'll do it for you : http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=24643

Bulvoy
Knight Commander
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Force Alignment: 500
Posts: 547


~Sipra Gehaz~ Rebel Legion "Ghost Base"


« Reply #14 on: May 07, 2016, 01:39:25 PM »

Thank you Honored . Good to give back in some fashion.
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UltraSaber's by bulvoy, on Flickr
Menace - Emerald V4s- RavenSS pommel
Manticore V4s-CG- S /FOC-Renegade small pommel
Crimson Scorpion- V4s-BR- O/FOC
Dominix V3s-SRD
Initiate V4 Lite- VA
            "Im here to chew bubblegum & kick ass, and I'm all outta bubblegum"...

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