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Author Topic: Wiring diagram  (Read 5287 times)
evanscd
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« on: May 10, 2016, 03:22:05 PM »
I have a dark initiate v4 on the way that I bought on Ebay.  It's a stunt saber without sound and I am planning on attempting to put the sound board from my kid's broken FX saber into it.  Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the basic stunt saber without sound?  The only ones I can find have the obsidian board in it...  Thanks
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GregG124
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« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2016, 09:56:52 PM »
I believe Landed Se-Sentien has the diagram you're looking for. I'll shoot him a PM to send the way.

Actually, it was Jedi-XIX. I'll get him over here for you.
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JediXIX
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« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2016, 11:35:28 PM »
Cheers GG . . .

Here's the wiring for a stunt saber (no sound) standard AAA batteries & resistor
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Goose2944
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« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2016, 08:15:15 PM »
Quote from: JediXIX on May 11, 2016, 11:35:28 PM
Cheers GG . . .

Here's the wiring for a stunt saber (no sound) standard AAA batteries & resistor




JediXIX, I'm looking into converting my standard TRI-led, Li-ion, stunt saber with guarded switch to one with a momentary LED AV. I have most of the wiring figured out using the Momentary->Latch converter from TCSS, but I have a question about buckpuck... would I still need it? I'm not seeing anyone with this setup talk about a buckpuck or even a resistor to the main LED, only to the switch LED.

Here is what I have...
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JediXIX
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« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2016, 01:23:53 AM »
Quote from: Goose2944 on May 13, 2016, 08:15:15 PM
JediXIX, I'm looking into converting my standard TRI-led, Li-ion, stunt saber with guarded switch to one with a momentary LED AV. I have most of the wiring figured out using the Momentary->Latch converter from TCSS, but I have a question about buckpuck... would I still need it? I'm not seeing anyone with this setup talk about a buckpuck or even a resistor to the main LED, only to the switch LED.


Yes, or you'll blow the blade LED . . . you'll need the BuckPuck or an appropriate resistor . . . It really depends on the battery voltage you're using and the LED specs, but if you're using 7.4v Li-Ion then the BuckPuck is the failsafe option . . .

Here's an example diagram that might help . . . cheers  Smiley
(although if it's 6v as shown, I'd recommend a resistor, not a BuckPuck)
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Goose2944
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« Reply #5 on: May 14, 2016, 01:20:37 PM »
Quote from: JediXIX on May 14, 2016, 01:23:53 AM
Yes, or you'll blow the blade LED . . . you'll need the BuckPuck or an appropriate resistor . . . It really depends on the battery voltage you're using and the LED specs, but if you're using 7.4v Li-Ion then the BuckPuck is the failsafe option . . .

Here's an example diagram that might help . . . cheers  Smiley
(although if it's 6v as shown, I'd recommend a resistor, not a BuckPuck)



Wonderful thank you!

I wasn't sure if it need to go just between the converter and the LED or if it had a weird split between the three components... this answers all my questions thank you!
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