Complete Custom Help (pic heavy)

[Benji]

I've had this idea for a while now to completely build a custom saber from the ground up. No pre-machined parts and no electronics other than what I have on hand.

That being said, I have little idea of how to go about doing this. So far, I have an old toy saber (or half the hilt) and the electronics that go inside it. I'm looking at building a new hilt from scratch and trying to install this into it.
Emitter section. I think the red wire is ground and blue is positive.  There used to be a part that held a lightbulb that screwed into it when it was complete.
  Switch Section. The black wire connects to the negative side of power. Here you can also see the sound board from side on view, the motion sensor and the yellow wires go to speaker.

  Better shot of speaker and motion sensor. One of the wires to the motion sensor will have to be re-soldered as it's come loose.
Turned sound board sideways so you can see the little grey square and dot that is the activation button.

Speaker, motion sensor and sound board pulled out of hilt for a different view.

 I figure I might have to build a chassis to set the electronics in and have to make it fit in a 1" tube just to start...  Anyone have suggestions on how I should do this? Am I getting ahead of myself and should try to rig up an LED to the system and make sure the electronics work first?

[Obese Wan Kenobese]

I like your thinking.

This might be helpful.
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=7267.0

I wonder if it would be easier to use an ultrasaber battery pack, instead of the toy part. The toy speaker may or may not be loud enough for you. I've got an Ultimate FX that I wanted to keep the electronics, but swap for an Ultrasaber LED. I decided not to yet, as I first tried my hand at soldering a broken LED strip in a Luke UltFX. I got it done, but not without some temporary insanity. The video in that post I linked was very informative. For me, I wound up just fixing the Luke strip and putting it all back as it was. I replaced the plastic tube with a midgrade blade. Assuming it holds up to light dueling, my nephew can use it without great financial risk. Just a grab bag blade and a 30$ UltFX.

[Benji]

I like your thinking.

This might be helpful.
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=7267.0

I wonder if it would be easier to use an ultrasaber battery pack, instead of the toy part. The toy speaker may or may not be loud enough for you. I've got an Ultimate FX that I wanted to keep the electronics, but swap for an Ultrasaber LED. I decided not to yet, as I first tried my hand at soldering a broken LED strip in a Luke UltFX. I got it done, but not without some temporary insanity. The video in that post I linked was very informative. For me, I wound up just fixing the Luke strip and putting it all back as it was. I replaced the plastic tube with a midgrade blade. Assuming it holds up to light dueling, my nephew can use it without great financial risk. Just a grab bag blade and a 30$ UltFX.

Thanks for the reply. And, yes, to wire this up with any kind of LED I will likely need to change the battery configuration. I'm not sure the speaker even still works as these saber guts date back to 1997 and have not been turned on in over 6 years at this point.

Major props for the link, have a point.

[Benji]

Update: I have decided to not build my hilt from scratch. I was looking seriously at the method I intended to use to do it and the thing would have ended up weighing a ton.

So instead I'm going to be installing these parts into a bare aeon v4 hilt. I'll likely give it a paint job when it's done. I have thought about model paints. One thread on the forums recommends nail polish...

Anyone have experience with painting for sabers used in combat and what sort would you recommend?

[mchalk13]

Benji, I have painted two sabers over the past 3 months or so. My first one is holding up very nicely with the random crappy spinning and occasional light sparing my fiancé and I do  I do in my apartment and the second one which has only been finished for about a week and I haven't really done anything with it as I am making sure the paint is completely set.

First one
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=32696.0

Second one

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=33038.0

An idea I have had recently is to paint a saber in any means I choose and then use a clear powder coat over the top of that to seal it all in and provide a extra durable finish.

[Benji]

Thank you, MChalk13.  This reminds me, I haven't posted an update to this in a bit. I have a work station set up now. Pics of that later.

Benji, I have painted two sabers over the past 3 months or so. My first one is holding up very nicely with the random crappy spinning and occasional light sparing my fiancé and I do  I do in my apartment and the second one which has only been finished for about a week and I haven't really done anything with it as I am making sure the paint is completely set.

First one
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=32696.0

Second one

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=33038.0

An idea I have had recently is to paint a saber in any means I choose and then use a clear powder coat over the top of that to seal it all in and provide a extra durable finish.

Great looking sabers! What kind of paint did you use? Did you take any special precautions to protect buttons or activation switches from getting paint on them? If I do go with the powder clear coat, is that something I have to bake on? Does it create some sort of fumes when used? I'm in a small apartment without many options for ventillation.

[mchalk13]

To protect the buttons I just used blue masking tape and taped the switches off. As far as the clear powder coat goes yes it does need to be baked on but as far as fumes go that I can't at this time speak to that due to the fact that I have yet to attempt it, I am sure how ever that there are fumes of some kind.

[Benji]

To protect the buttons I just used blue masking tape and taped the switches off. As far as the clear powder coat goes yes it does need to be baked on but as far as fumes go that I can't at this time speak to that due to the fact that I have yet to attempt it, I am sure how ever that there are fumes of some kind.

I decided to paint it before assembling it. And I did it by hand instead of using a spray paint. Still have to apply that clear coat, though. Probably going to pick up something at the hardware store.

[mchalk13]

Are you looking to apply the clear coat to the saber as a whole? if so I don't know how well the CC will adhere to the bare aluminum. you may have to go with a brush able clear coat or completely mask of all the aluminum. Another thing I myself would try first would be clear fingernail polish (literally just lightbulbed in my head) I only mention using that because I use it for sealing ballistic drop information on the underside of the scope cover on one of my rifles, it holds dam well and hasn't chipped yet.

[Benji]

Are you looking to apply the clear coat to the saber as a whole? if so I don't know how well the CC will adhere to the bare aluminum. you may have to go with a brush able clear coat or completely mask of all the aluminum. Another thing I myself would try first would be clear fingernail polish (literally just lightbulbed in my head) I only mention using that because I use it for sealing ballistic drop information on the underside of the scope cover on one of my rifles, it holds dam well and hasn't chipped yet.

That's actually not a bad idea. I just fear it would take more than what is in a bottle to do it.

[Benji]

A couple of pics and video of ignition. The AV is lighting successfully, and sounds are go!!

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCfaIl73NTc&amp;feature=youtu.be" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCfaIl73NTc&amp;feature=youtu.be</a>

[Benji]

Are you looking to apply the clear coat to the saber as a whole? if so I don't know how well the CC will adhere to the bare aluminum. you may have to go with a brush able clear coat or completely mask of all the aluminum. Another thing I myself would try first would be clear fingernail polish (literally just lightbulbed in my head) I only mention using that because I use it for sealing ballistic drop information on the underside of the scope cover on one of my rifles, it holds dam well and hasn't chipped yet.

Almost ready to install, I tried the clear nail polish. It seems to work really well and I have plenty of left over in the bottle. Thanks, mchalk13!

[RevanReborn]

Dude this is turning out awesome!! sorry i only just saw this now!

Grea work .  can't wait to see how it looks installed!

[Benji]

Thanks, Revan! First attempt to install is sort of resulting in frustration. I can't seem to get everything in the hilt. Might have to disassemble some of the wiring and try it from another angle.

Here's the switch wires coming out the switch hole. And the LED quick disconnect hanging out the end.


The rest of my electronics hanging out the back on my (cluttered) work space.


And a shot up the pommel to try to determine what the problem is that's holding things up... Seems to be a narrowing of the inner diameter of the hilt shortly into it...


Anyone have suggestions that might help, so I don't have to essentially start over with soldering?

[RevanReborn]

Hey Benji

Believe me I know how discouraging/ frustrating that is!  It's often the hardest part of the whole thing.  You'll get it though, but sometimes it just takes a whole bunch of rethinking and trial and error.  Sentinels/ aeons are the same inside, VERY small.  It's essentially a blade socket all the way down to the bottom of the lowest choke more or less, it can make fitting things in a nightmare.

Does the puck fit in the smaller ID?  I'm thinking it should JUST fit if you can get it lined up perfectly?  How long is that board?  I'd recommend dropping some hot glue over the spots where your wires are soldered onto the board (lile where they're bare/exposed)- you might want to consider bending them to the right angles so the wire sticks off in a way that it runs all in one direction- you can carefully run your wiring very neatly along the surface of the board so it doesn't stick off at all angles and make mess/ take up room.  You can figure out spots where you can eliminate excess wiring- that makes a huge diff.

Also do you have a heat gun?