Thanks guys!
Ok I didn't get as much time as I expected but I pretty much have everything prepped, so tomorrow's the day for sure for having together to test, and I can show you how to hook in one of these accents.
I'll just be hooking together to make sure it's all working like I think, that it's all good, and to confirm the condition of the speaker and switch-I have extras if need be, need to make sure these are good. Not to mention, for purposes of intstall there's no point trying to finalize the internals yet- once I've got things running into the body then I can braid nicely and trim to length etc- but would be premature at this point- I've got more length than I need inetntionally pre-install.
Alright, so the stuff at the new soldering area: the 4 channel emerald, v3 obsidian (I think), the 2x 14500 Li ion holder, speaker, usual soldering stuff obviously, some tape, plus some other things I'll need like resistors, random shrink, the colour wire I'll want (sticking with 24gauge for strength), etc.
Looking at this just gets me that much more excited about the diamond controller, if that's even possible lol.
I'll need to get this real tidy for Ethan to slide out and change his colours/ sound font. The top of the boards have the resin, but you can see the bottom, which is handy for tracking the foc pin/ wires without consulting a diagram (one day I will, it could clear up some questions I still have the easy way lol).
I can't even tidy this up yet until I see the speakers legit. Then I can permanently attach speaker, finalize that part of the wiring and lock in the batteries for good.
I had the led sitting in its old module just to let it set onto its heat sink since I opted to go for a couple star thermal tapes instead of the grease. Now it's nice and locked on from sitting held/ compressed while I finished tweaking the new module. So time to move the led to its new home, and give it a shiny new lens while we're at it. Gotta admit, the emeralds not wired like I expected- 4 individually addressable dice you'd expect 8 leads right? Nope- 6. Somethings common (?), but that's interesting cause any channel could be foc depending on whim of user, so it must all be in the board- how it actually articulates the dice? Dunno- wish I had time to examine this a bit but it'll have to wait till I get a look at my other emerald- no time here. (Or I could just check a diagram lol, but I'm stubborn). Either way doesn't even affect me here- I'm not changing any part of the main led circuit- I'm messing with everything else lol.
Time to break out the trusty tester pack- chunk of a kylo toy with a latching switch patched on to a 700mA puck, perfect for testing/ identifying etc most high powered dice I'll work with on the safe side, and a 5mm deep red off a 20mA dyna ohm, handy to tell me if the switch is in on position, and removable so I can safely test just about any small led I'll work with- which I'll do now to identify which legs/ dice are which. Easy since there's only one positive for them all.
Bam
Bam
Bam
Now I can solder the leads on- let's go red for positive, black for green since those two are just running to recharge port, white for the red (-), and purple for the blue (-)... probabaly wonder why not blue lol, but the blue die is the foc in this config, and I'm so used to using purple for foc.
I could have trimmed the ends a tiny bit more to be perfect, but those are solid joins, and these leads simply won't be able to move at all anywhere near the joins. It's all locked in place well. The hardest thing I did today was get the bloody shrink over those bends and snug all the way to the base of lens so no potential for shorting lol- the legs are so close the shrink interferes with the next shrink, doesn't wanna go on all the way lol, but I got it!
Good idea to put somehting soft down when working with your switch- flat ones will show scuffing way easier than you expect. I'm realizing looking at this pic now that I didn't trim switch posts like I usually do- hoping that doesn't come back to bite me lol. Not worried there's plenty of room in this one- I'm running less wire/ etc than I seem to be averaging lately lol.
The switch led wires just go 3/4" to the right to the recharge port, so they're shorter- the switch wires are longer cause they'll connect down to board and be done up nicely to allow access.
So now I grab the 2.1mm jack and we're ready to hook all this up
. Piece of cake from here- that's going down tomrrow morning. Keep you posted.
