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Author Topic: Archon v....something  (Read 2366 times)
CyberKyber
Knight Templar
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Force Alignment: -432
Posts: 303



« Reply #15 on: March 24, 2017, 12:58:36 PM »

Thank you for the advice. I probably won't try that on my Archon yet, but I'd like to know what the deal is with resistoring multiple LEDs on a tri cree or RGBW?

Well, resistoring depends on the LEDs and batteries that you're using. The take home message is simple: on a saber with Li-ion batteries and buckpuck, you only need to resistor the Red (maybe Amber too, but I'm not sure) LED or diode with a 2 Ohm 2W resistor. The rest of colours, from green to blue (and white) don't need to be restored, they will stand that voltage. LEDs can also be resistored if you want a specific colour, for example, sunrider's destiny is a mixture of green and blue on an RGB LED, but the blue is resistored so that it is less bright than the green, otherwise it would look more like Cyan or Arctic blue.
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Lightsabers:
Counterfeit/Violent Darth Vader lightsaber (ROTJ look)- reaper emitter, warglaive body, T-grips, Heiland/MPP activation clamp -
Emerald driver + Obsidian V4 - Crimson red
Menace SE staff - BR
Chosen Once CE - Obs V4 Deep Red (custom)
Graflex SE - Obs V4 GB
Archon V3.1 - Obs V4 Viridian green (custom lime+cyan)
War glaive/reaper hybrid, raven style - Deep Red/FO
Custom Prophecy V3 (Anakin AotC) -Medium Blue (custom)
Dominix V3 LE - CG
Apprentice LE (with black grip) - VA
Aeon V3 - TRI GB
Dominix V2 - SD

projectno253
Knight Lt. Commander
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Force Alignment: -88
Posts: 487


There is no Peace...only Victory


« Reply #16 on: March 24, 2017, 01:10:36 PM »

Well, resistoring depends on the LEDs and batteries that you're using. The take home message is simple: on a saber with Li-ion batteries and buckpuck, you only need to resistor the Red (maybe Amber too, but I'm not sure) LED or diode with a 2 Ohm 2W resistor. The rest of colours, from green to blue (and white) don't need to be restored, they will stand that voltage. LEDs can also be resistored if you want a specific colour, for example, sunrider's destiny is a mixture of green and blue on an RGB LED, but the blue is resistored so that it is less bright than the green, otherwise it would look more like Cyan or Arctic blue.

Well I meant more of if you had a 3.7v (or 7.4v) battery set up, and you had a tri cree LED, would you resistor each diode with the same resistor as you'd use with a single diode LED (with the tri cree diodes in parallel)? Or do some people wire them in series with one resistor (the value of which I wouldn't know either)?
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CyberKyber
Knight Templar
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Force Alignment: -432
Posts: 303



« Reply #17 on: March 24, 2017, 10:47:16 PM »

Well I meant more of if you had a 3.7v (or 7.4v) battery set up, and you had a tri cree LED, would you resistor each diode with the same resistor as you'd use with a single diode LED (with the tri cree diodes in parallel)? Or do some people wire them in series with one resistor (the value of which I wouldn't know either)?

As far as I'm aware, the buckpuck that US offers in their sabers with their Li-ion batteries kind of takes care of that problem. See, the buckpuck guarantees that the current that reaches the LEDs is a constant 1000 milliamps, which all LEDs stand, except the red (and again, maybe the amber), which run at 700 milliamps. Running them at a higher currents means that they might end up blowing up or stop working. To accommodate for this, whenever US offers a saber with a red LED, it uses the 2 ohm resistor that I mentioned before (only for the red). No other colours need to be restored at all when you have a buckpuck. If you DIDN'T have a buckpuck, then you would definitely have to calculate what individual resistor you need for each LED diode in parallel (always in parallel, less messy). Since US offers buckpuck, make use of it! You only need to put a resistor on the RED! Also, for that matter, if you happen to wire up two LED diodes that need the same resistance, you can use a single resistor wired up in parallel to both LED diodes (preferably on the negative side just in case).
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Lightsabers:
Counterfeit/Violent Darth Vader lightsaber (ROTJ look)- reaper emitter, warglaive body, T-grips, Heiland/MPP activation clamp -
Emerald driver + Obsidian V4 - Crimson red
Menace SE staff - BR
Chosen Once CE - Obs V4 Deep Red (custom)
Graflex SE - Obs V4 GB
Archon V3.1 - Obs V4 Viridian green (custom lime+cyan)
War glaive/reaper hybrid, raven style - Deep Red/FO
Custom Prophecy V3 (Anakin AotC) -Medium Blue (custom)
Dominix V3 LE - CG
Apprentice LE (with black grip) - VA
Aeon V3 - TRI GB
Dominix V2 - SD

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