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Author Topic: Question About Brightness of RGBW  (Read 6661 times)
projectno253
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« Reply #15 on: March 26, 2017, 06:03:22 AM »

One should never have to choose between arctic blue or guardian blue for a graflex. All you have to is switch a red screw for a glass eye screw to go from ESB to TFA. Your color changing should be just as easy.

Graflex's are roomy to. A Diamond will fit in there with room to spare.

About the size, oh for sure. There's so much room in my kit. I have it configured in TFA, after learning so much about the actual camera grip used for the prop, it's just odd to see the ESB double red button set up (though it is pleasant looking)
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Gorobulus
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In time you will call me master


« Reply #16 on: March 26, 2017, 06:13:27 AM »

About the size, oh for sure. There's so much room in my kit. I have it configured in TFA, after learning so much about the actual camera grip used for the prop, it's just odd to see the ESB double red button set up (though it is pleasant looking)


I think I know the one you're talking about, how are those kits? Id like to get one down the road. I have an actual Graflex saber. One of those Master Yoda ones, but the technology in it is obsolete(Luxeon 5 blue and Ultrasound 2.0 soundboard)

Heres a pic of it with my dark mantis:


And one ignited for the heck of it.

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Dark Mantis-Blazing red-Obsidian V4
Chosen one- Obsidian V4/Emerald driver
Dark Monarch-Diamond controller

projectno253
Knight Lt. Commander
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Force Alignment: -88
Posts: 487


There is no Peace...only Victory


« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2017, 06:21:07 AM »

So you're telling me you have one of Yoda's vintage Graflex builds?  Shocked that must be a prize. The kit is very easy to put together and a great kit for lightsaber use. Really customizable in general, and really heavy. I think it's heavier than my Archon 3.1 even without any electronics in it yet.

I'm jealous of that Graflex if it is vintage...I have yet to magically, conveniently stumble upon a 3-cell at an antique store or market
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Gorobulus
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In time you will call me master


« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2017, 06:23:40 AM »

So you're telling me you have one of Yoda's vintage Graflex builds?  Shocked that must be a prize. The kit is very easy to put together and a great kit for lightsaber use. Really customizable in general, and really heavy. I think it's heavier than my Archon 3.1 even without any electronics in it yet.

I'm jealous of that Graflex if it is vintage...I have yet to magically, conveniently stumble upon a 3-cell at an antique store or market

It is indeed one of Yodas vintage graflexes. One of his very early ones. Ive had it for about, oh it must be around 11 years now. Damn Im getting old lol.
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Dark Mantis-Blazing red-Obsidian V4
Chosen one- Obsidian V4/Emerald driver
Dark Monarch-Diamond controller

projectno253
Knight Lt. Commander
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Force Alignment: -88
Posts: 487


There is no Peace...only Victory


« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2017, 06:26:29 AM »

It is indeed one of Yodas vintage graflexes. One of his very early ones. Ive had it for about, oh it must be around 11 years now. Damn Im getting old lol.

It's getting to become as much as a relic as the one in the movie at this point  Grin hopefully no force visions when you touch it yet. The technomancer in me is saying you should pump that baby full of Diamond Controller RGBW goodness  Cool
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Gorobulus
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In time you will call me master


« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2017, 06:37:08 AM »

It's getting to become as much as a relic as the one in the movie at this point  Grin hopefully no force visions when you touch it yet. The technomancer in me is saying you should pump that baby full of Diamond Controller RGBW goodness  Cool
I have thought about upgrading the electronics, but Im also kind of torn about doing it. Ive been collecting sabers for a long time. Going back to the old 3 watt Luxeon conversions on master replicas. I still have all that stuff to. My saber collection is almost a history of the evolution of the saber industry. Lux 3's, Lux 5's, Seoul P4's all sorts of different soundboards etc etc. My Graflex is out of date now, but to keep it as it is is like having a snapshot of the saberworld from a decade ago. Im not sure I want to alter it. It would feel like, I don't know, like Im erasing its history, if that makes any sense.
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Dark Mantis-Blazing red-Obsidian V4
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Dark Monarch-Diamond controller

projectno253
Knight Lt. Commander
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Force Alignment: -88
Posts: 487


There is no Peace...only Victory


« Reply #21 on: March 26, 2017, 06:38:37 AM »

I have thought about upgrading the electronics, but Im also kind of torn about doing it. Ive been collecting sabers for a long time. Going back to the old 3 watt Luxeon conversions on master replicas. I still have all that stuff to. My saber collection is almost a history of the evolution of the saber industry. Lux 3's, Lux 5's, Seoul P4's all sorts of different soundboards etc etc. My Graflex is out of date now, but to keep it as it is is like having a snapshot of the saberworld from a decade ago. Im not sure I want to alter it. It would feel like, I don't know, like Im erasing its history, if that makes any sense.

That makes a lot of sense. In that case I wouldn't touch it either.
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Gorobulus
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« Reply #22 on: March 26, 2017, 06:43:23 AM »

That makes a lot of sense. In that case I wouldn't touch it either.

Yea that's why I was thinking about one of those kits. When I compare pics of them to mine, they look close, damn close. Then I could have one with up to date electronics and still preserve mine the way it was made to be.
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Dark Mantis-Blazing red-Obsidian V4
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Dark Monarch-Diamond controller

projectno253
Knight Lt. Commander
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Force Alignment: -88
Posts: 487


There is no Peace...only Victory


« Reply #23 on: March 26, 2017, 06:49:46 AM »

Yea that's why I was thinking about one of those kits. When I compare pics of them to mine, they look close, damn close. Then I could have one with up to date electronics and still preserve mine the way it was made to be.

I almost suggested that in my last post. Those replicas are almost 100% identical, other than the most minute of features and hex screws rather than slotted screws. That part is any easy fix though.

I'll need to get a 1" bored blade holder for mine though ($60 Cry ) if I want to duel with it. And for some absurd reason, I very much do want to duel with my Graflex kit.
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Gorobulus
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« Reply #24 on: March 26, 2017, 06:57:43 AM »

I almost suggested that in my last post. Those replicas are almost 100% identical, other than the most minute of features and hex screws rather than slotted screws. That part is any easy fix though.

I'll need to get a 1" bored blade holder for mine though ($60 Cry ) if I want to duel with it. And for some absurd reason, I very much do want to duel with my Graflex kit.

Mine has a 7/8 blade holder. But it came with a special one inch blade that Yoda filed or sanded to 7/8 just equal to the depth of the blade holder. So it looks like a one inch blade even though the part that goes into the saber is 7/8. Needless to say, not a dualing saber lol.
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Dark Mantis-Blazing red-Obsidian V4
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RSX Engineering
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« Reply #25 on: March 30, 2017, 08:15:41 AM »

RGB together will be almost as bright as a single white LED by itself.  It's simple science.  Colored LEDs only shine in the color of their light, so only that light in the visible spectrum is showing.  Of the three, red is the weakest, then blue, with green being the brightest, due to their visibility.  Add it all together and you get white-ish, not pure white.  So, the combined brightness would be similar to a single white LED.  Add in the white LED, and you get about the brightness of two whites.  A Tri-Cree in Adgegan Silver (white) would still be brighter.  I don't know much about the 12w LEDs and how bright they are, but I do believe they are comparable to a Tri-Cree.  (somebody will correct me if I'm wrong on that)

That's correct in principle, but not necessary in details. For the LedEngin RGBW LED, the maximum luminances are:
- Red = 105 lumen
- Green = 170 lumen
- Blue = 43 lumen
- White = 225 lumen
So if you run RGB at full intensity, you'll get some white-ish at 318 lumen, which is 40% more than what you'll get with only the white channel running at full intensity. But the R+G+B white won't be pure white.

In short, how much white you'll get from RGB vs. W depends on the actual LED. For LedEnging, you'll get 40% more from RGB than from W.

Marius.
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projectno253
Knight Lt. Commander
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Force Alignment: -88
Posts: 487


There is no Peace...only Victory


« Reply #26 on: March 30, 2017, 11:21:41 AM »

Mine has a 7/8 blade holder. But it came with a special one inch blade that Yoda filed or sanded to 7/8 just equal to the depth of the blade holder. So it looks like a one inch blade even though the part that goes into the saber is 7/8. Needless to say, not a dualing saber lol.

Yeah, I almost considered that, but then I realized how quickly that would break  Roll Eyes

 
That's correct in principle, but not necessary in details. For the LedEngin RGBW LED, the maximum luminances are:
- Red = 105 lumen
- Green = 170 lumen
- Blue = 43 lumen
- White = 225 lumen
So if you run RGB at full intensity, you'll get some white-ish at 318 lumen, which is 40% more than what you'll get with only the white channel running at full intensity. But the R+G+B white won't be pure white.

In short, how much white you'll get from RGB vs. W depends on the actual LED. For LedEnging, you'll get 40% more from RGB than from W.

Marius.

I'm surprised to see you guys on the forum (supplier/maker of US boards for anyone reading). Thank you for the first hand info.
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