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Author Topic: Question About Converting My Saber  (Read 1223 times)
Hightower85
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Posts: 32


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« on: March 23, 2017, 04:34:23 PM »

Hi all,

I am wanting to learn and convert both my Crimson Scorpion (V4 board) and Prophecy V3 but I am not sure what parts I need to do so.

I have attached an image of my current cart on TCSS as an example.

Please can you guys advise me on what I need and how to go about doing the conversions.

Thankyou all in advance!

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Peace is a lie, there is only passion.
Through passion, I gain strength.
Through strength, I gain power.
Through power, I gain victory.
Through victory, my chains are broken.
The Force shall free me.
---------------------------------------------
Sabers I currently own:-
Malice:- Tri-Cree Blazing Red, Obsidian V4 Soundboard
Plus more but not allowed to say..

MdWolfen
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Posts: 71



« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2017, 06:32:01 PM »

A few things. You will need to buy/make a chassis for the battery and the NB3 board and speaker for the Prophecy(assuming it's a stunt). In your Scorpion, you want to change out the Obsidian v4 board too, or just the led? IMO I would keep the Obsidian board and the Li-ion batteries and just change the led board if you want a different light color if that's what you are going for. Also, that led module that you have listed in your TCSS cart will not work for either saber. It's too small. The ID's of those two sabers are roughly 1.25". You can change the led to the Tri-Cree with that lens that you have listed and use the modules that are already in the hilts. You will want a proper resistor on each of the three leds on the Tri-Cree. Remember when figuring out the resistors that you need, the Obsidian board with the two Li-Ion batteries is 7.4 volts and  the NB3 board with the one Li-Ion battery is 3.7 volts. The NB3 only uses one 3.7v battery where as the Obsidian needs two for the 7.4v. As for the switches, your Scorpion has a momentary switch. To change it, use a hair dryer (or heat gun on low setting) on the switch to soften the glue holding the switch. Then carefully pry the switch out. Same for the Prophecy. However, if the Prophecy is a stunt, then you probably have a guarded latching switch. those are a tad smaller than the momentary switches. You will have to drill out the hole to make it bigger for the momentary switch. You will have to re-glue the new switches in place. Will will also need a resistor on the switches if you are going to use illuminated ones. Post what ever other questions you have. Myself or someone else will help.  
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They can hear a cloud pass overhead, the rhythm of your blood. 
They can track you by yesterday's shadow.
They can tear the scream from your throat.
There is no defense.


Guardian(Weathered & Shattered) - Custom Orange Tri-Cree(36") w/Green FoC - Obsidian v4   -   Mine
Scorpion - Sentinel Yellow(36") w/FO FoC - Obsidian v4   -   Mine
Korbanth Graflex 2.0 Kit   -   Building ESB Version  -  Mine
Dark Sentinel v4 - Violet Amethyst(32") w/SRD FoC - Obsidian v4   -   Wife's
Dominix LE v4 Grab Bag - Blazing Red(36") - Stunt

Rapine
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« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2017, 06:48:11 PM »

Yes indeed.

Your Prophecy would require a normal LED unit.

Your Scorpion would require an MLS unit, I believe.

You should have both in the sabers already.

YES!  Output wattage is very important.  Hooking up an NBV3 to a 7.4 watt set-up, would most likely fry the board.  You'd want a dummy cell...

Instead of adding a resistor to each die, they could be done in series - for a 7.4v set-up...

Like MdWolfen said, if you require any further assistance, or have more questions, don't hesitate to ask. Smiley

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Jediseth
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« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2017, 09:41:48 PM »

I have seen a couple builds with that sound board and they use the  5 watt resistor. Just wire it to the led using either the negative or positive wire.
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Hightower85
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Force Alignment: -19
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DARKSIDE POINTS ONLY...


« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2017, 09:16:25 AM »

A few things. You will need to buy/make a chassis for the battery and the NB3 board and speaker for the Prophecy(assuming it's a stunt). In your Scorpion, you want to change out the Obsidian v4 board too, or just the led? IMO I would keep the Obsidian board and the Li-ion batteries and just change the led board if you want a different light color if that's what you are going for. Also, that led module that you have listed in your TCSS cart will not work for either saber. It's too small. The ID's of those two sabers are roughly 1.25". You can change the led to the Tri-Cree with that lens that you have listed and use the modules that are already in the hilts. You will want a proper resistor on each of the three leds on the Tri-Cree. Remember when figuring out the resistors that you need, the Obsidian board with the two Li-Ion batteries is 7.4 volts and  the NB3 board with the one Li-Ion battery is 3.7 volts. The NB3 only uses one 3.7v battery where as the Obsidian needs two for the 7.4v. As for the switches, your Scorpion has a momentary switch. To change it, use a hair dryer (or heat gun on low setting) on the switch to soften the glue holding the switch. Then carefully pry the switch out. Same for the Prophecy. However, if the Prophecy is a stunt, then you probably have a guarded latching switch. those are a tad smaller than the momentary switches. You will have to drill out the hole to make it bigger for the momentary switch. You will have to re-glue the new switches in place. Will will also need a resistor on the switches if you are going to use illuminated ones. Post what ever other questions you have. Myself or someone else will help.  

Thanks for replying bro.

I am going to keep the V4 board for a future stunt saber.

My main, and probably, only concern is knowing exactly knowing what parts to purchase as I dont want them to go BOOM after conversion!

Could you advise me on what to purchase. The chassis is not a problem as I have heard I can get files to 3D print one (seeing as I have a 3D printer, this makes sense).
Logged

Peace is a lie, there is only passion.
Through passion, I gain strength.
Through strength, I gain power.
Through power, I gain victory.
Through victory, my chains are broken.
The Force shall free me.
---------------------------------------------
Sabers I currently own:-
Malice:- Tri-Cree Blazing Red, Obsidian V4 Soundboard
Plus more but not allowed to say..

MdWolfen
Knight Lance Corporal
*

Force Alignment: 26
Posts: 71



« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2017, 07:15:07 PM »


My main, and probably, only concern is knowing exactly knowing what parts to purchase as I dont want them to go BOOM after conversion!



This is what I would get...

-NB3 (Unless you want to color change the LED then you'll need to go to a Prizm or higher board. Remember that the NB3 is only 3.7 volts. You can download the instructions for the NB3 on Plector's web site and go through it before buying anything)
-LED Star Board (Tri-Cree or Tri-Rebel. If you just want one color, get two of the LED die that color and the other die your FoC color. If you want a mixed color like Purple for example, you'll need a Red and a Blue for the Purple and a a color for the FoC. Remember that with a NB3 the LED color mixes with the the main color during the FoC event. TCSS and LEDSupply sell custom 3-up Tri-Cree's. LEDSupply has the custom 3-up Tri-Rebels. If you are concerned about brightness when choosing a color combo, check the Lumen rating on the LED die. The proper resistors will be needed on each die. Also, you can use the stock US LED modules that are already in your hilts)
-LED Lens (Use a thin glue to hold the lens to the LED star as there will be a little space between the lens and the top of the module with the stock US LED modules)
-18650 3.7v Li-Ion protected battery (You could go with an 18500[AA size]. The 18650 will have more mAh, but it is bigger)
-Li-Ion 3.7v Charger (Plug in if using a recharge port, base if not)
-Recharge Port (If wanted)
-Speaker 28mm (Premium or bass. It's personal preference. I like the bass speaker if a lot of deep and dark fonts are used)
-Chassis (Build or buy. Needs to accommodate the sound board, speaker, battery and recharge port if used)
-16mm Momentary Switch (Illuminated or not. Needs the proper resistor if illuminated. Remember if it's replacing a smaller guarded switch the the hole will have to be drilled out. The new switch will have to be glued in place. Use a strong hot glue.)
-Resistors (The proper one for every LED die in the hilt. Use http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz to find out what ohm/watt resistors you need)
-26/28 AWG stranded wire (Stranded and flexible. Not stiff wire. Multiple colors help with organization)
-Heat Shrink Tubing (Use on all wire to wire and wire to resistor connections. Do not cover the resistors with heat shrink tubing due to the heat emitted)

I think that's mostly everything. Anymore questions, post and someone will help.  Smiley
Logged

They can hear a cloud pass overhead, the rhythm of your blood. 
They can track you by yesterday's shadow.
They can tear the scream from your throat.
There is no defense.


Guardian(Weathered & Shattered) - Custom Orange Tri-Cree(36") w/Green FoC - Obsidian v4   -   Mine
Scorpion - Sentinel Yellow(36") w/FO FoC - Obsidian v4   -   Mine
Korbanth Graflex 2.0 Kit   -   Building ESB Version  -  Mine
Dark Sentinel v4 - Violet Amethyst(32") w/SRD FoC - Obsidian v4   -   Wife's
Dominix LE v4 Grab Bag - Blazing Red(36") - Stunt

scifidude79
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Force Alignment: 2106
Posts: 6326



« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2017, 02:45:44 PM »

Instead of a chassis, you could alternately use the 18650 battery holder/speaker mount combo.  It's designed to fit nicely inside MHS parts.  That's what I used for my sound upgrade on my Aeon LE V4.
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Rapine
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SaberForum.Com Moderator
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Posts: 7792


Always scanning the horizon...


« Reply #7 on: March 26, 2017, 02:58:38 PM »

Indeed!

And SFD did a spectacular job.  In fact, I'd like to do that set-up one day. Smiley
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"The thing that always drives me hazy, is wondering whether it's them or me who's crazy." ~ A. Einstein

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