Color change switch with Obsidian V3 sound and FOC question

[JdiKnhtJMH]

So, I'm making a custom lightsaber, and since I'm going to all that trouble, I want it to have color options. Not full RGB, but I want to switch between red and blue. I figured out that I can use a rocker or button to shift an input wire between two output wires, what's called a Single Pull Double Throw switch. I've ordered an LED wired for VA so it'll have wires going to both blue and red, which I will cut and then connect to the terminals on the switch or possibly just use with two quick disconnects if I cant do the switch option. Here's my edited wiring diagram with the SPDT in place. Just looking for input and to see if I'm on the right track. The FOC is programmed to be silver, so I want to make sure that'll work and that there wont be too much voltage/amperage running and whatnot, just looking for some feedback and ideas here. Credit to Ultrasabers for the diagram, the only changes I made are by the LED as yo ucan see so its not a major modification.

[RSX Engineering]

So, I'm making a custom lightsaber, and since I'm going to all that trouble, I want it to have color options. Not full RGB, but I want to switch between red and blue. I figured out that I can use a rocker or button to shift an input wire between two output wires, what's called a Single Pull Double Throw switch. I've ordered an LED wired for VA so it'll have wires going to both blue and red, which I will cut and then connect to the terminals on the switch or possibly just use with two quick disconnects if I cant do the switch option. Here's my edited wiring diagram with the SPDT in place. Just looking for input and to see if I'm on the right track. The FOC is programmed to be silver, so I want to make sure that'll work and that there wont be too much voltage/amperage running and whatnot, just looking for some feedback and ideas here. Credit to Ultrasabers for the diagram, the only changes I made are by the LED as yo ucan see so its not a major modification.

You're on the right track, but the actual wiring depends on the type of LED you're going to use:
- if it's a common anode type then you need to connect the common anode (+) to the "VIN" pin and each cathode (-) to the "LED" pin through the switch
- if it's a common cathode type then you need to connect the common cathode (-)  to the "LED" pin and each anode (+) to the "VIN" pin through the switch

Also please keep in mind that Obsidian does not regulate the LED current, so you'll need a resistor or a buckpuck in series with the LED. Details on resistor calculation here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8lnjnV_xxP5NktRNXlNUDZwNUk/view?usp=sharing

Marius.

[JdiKnhtJMH]

Hey thanks for your reply, so glad to get some advice from someone in the know! How can I tell between LEDs? I ordered it as a VA so it should be an RGB LED. Its going to come with wires attached and stuff because I basically ordered a scorpion with v3 sound, but not assembled,. so I'm sure they'll test it and have it ready to go into the saber after I finish my work, it should come with whatever resistors it needs. I'll be sure to have the resistor before the switch on the battery side, not on the LED side. I think that should sort it out.

So you think it'll work ok? I'm going to get pics and post them once the saber arrives, I'm good with electronics but this is something new and I havent seen anything like it done before.

[JediXIX]

Hey JdiKnhtJMH, I've had a little experience with this sort of thing  

I find it easiest to use a BuckPuck, because all LED's are covered . . . if you want any advice, I'm happy to help . . .  


This was my latest using a rotary switch http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=33651

And this one I combined the colour changing with Obsidian V4 http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=27654
I even did a wiring diagram for that one, if that helps . . .

[JdiKnhtJMH]

Wow you do some incredible work there! I wish I'd have thought to get a buckpuck on this but oh well, I think the resistor will do alright. I've often thought about getting a switch like that for my manticore because I'd love to make that an RGB saber but it just doesn't have the space for the regular RGB button setup, thats part of why I wanted to try this new button thing. The rotary switch is brilliant though. How come you didn't cut the black switch piece in half to reduce the size of the assembly though. Would such a thing work with silver FoC?

[JediXIX]

If you're doing the switch to just change between blue & red, resistors will work perfect, just depends on how you set it up . . . there is an easy way, using the existing US wiring . . .

White FoC is absolutely doable, I've done it in testing, but not installed in a hilt . . . yet, lol . . . I ran the RGB diodes with switch from a BuckPuck, and had the white positive on it's own with a resistor, and the white negative back to the FoC pin on the board . . .


Yep, I did cut down the rotary switch shaft . . . It still needs a bit of length because the main switch part doesn't fit inside the inner pommel diameter, I'm still working on my next one, and I've taken more pics of the progress to share on that thread, some time in the future . . .

[JdiKnhtJMH]

If you're doing the switch to just change between blue & red, resistors will work perfect, just depends on how you set it up . . . there is an easy way, using the existing US wiring . . .

White FoC is absolutely doable, I've done it in testing, but not installed in a hilt . . . yet, lol . . . I ran the RGB diodes with switch from a BuckPuck, and had the white positive on it's own with a resistor, and the white negative back to the FoC pin on the board . . .

Yep, I did cut down the rotary switch shaft . . . It still needs a bit of length because the main switch part doesn't fit inside the inner pommel diameter, I'm still working on my next one, and I've taken more pics of the progress to share on that thread, some time in the future . . .

Basically what I want to do here is just put a switch in and attach the wires to it, then turn the saber on with minimum alterations. My hope is that I'll only really have to mess with two wires, the red and blue leads. Is there something else I need to look at perhaps? The saber as ordered  is configured as VA with silver FOC, and I've explained to Ultrasabers what I want to do, just not sure of the exact terms and such.

Hey out of curiousity, how small is your color change device? Could it possibly fit in a Manticore with sound?

[JediXIX]

You'll probably need to run some separate positive wires from your switch to the LED module for red, blue, and white FoC because US usually have a single positive from the Obsidian setup and split it at the module . . . you may also need to resistor the white separately . . . If you take a pic of the wiring when you get it, I can give you some help with what you'll need to do . . .

Have you decided on your red / blue switch ? . . . and where you want it ? . . .

The small dip switches can fit just behind the speaker if you move the Obsidian board a little . . . a bit like this ;


Also, I've used a small toggle switch as a mute feature on a few Obsidian v3 sabers (just a switch on the speaker negative or positive wire), and mounted that just behind the speaker also . . . you could use one of these to switch between red & blue . . .  could look something like this ;



I have idea's in my head of using a rotary switch with a sound saber, and done some tests, maybe one day