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Author Topic: My Initiate V4  (Read 2736 times)
wrongalpha
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« on: May 24, 2017, 02:25:46 PM »

i recently got my initiate in the mail and i ordered it with consular green, my initial pick was going to be fire orange and now that i have my blade i regret not going with my first choice. I was wondering how hard it would be to order the color i want and replace it myself. I work as an IT and i have all the tools i will need. Maybe i can order sentinel yellow and put it in if possible.
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Jediseth
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"If I told you, you wouldn't like it." Han Solo


« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2017, 02:43:51 PM »

The emmiter is not MHS compatible so you can't access the led there,  but you can still do it. Do you have sound or just a stunt? You would have to gut the thing out because the switch is in the way of the led.  Your new led is going to cost you $35 so if it's just a stunt you have to decide if it's worth it.  Oh crap, didn't read the tittle"V4",  yes I think you can do it. Your hardest part will be getting that switch out, but it can be done. Your first step will be sniping the wires with the batteries out and pulling out the speaker/ sound board / battery pack first so you can get to the switch. From there you can see if you can cut the hot glue around the switch with a long skinny knife and pop it out. You can heat up the glue and melt it also, but I haven't tried that, others have. Wiring the led from there should be pretty straight forward.

By the way be sure to go read the rules and acknowledge them before posting. It's at the top in red. And Welcome to the forum!
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Guardian : GB, FOC Red, V4, 11-15                        Reaper: V4, BR, 4-17
Chosen One CE : Emerald, V4, 12-15
Consular: Emerald V4, 1-16
Manticore: BR, FOC Orange, QD, V4, 11-16
Monarch: Emerald, V4, 2016 Autumn Raffle -1st
Arbiter: V4, SD, Silver FOC, QD, 3-17
Archon V2.1, Diamond, 4-17

Dauntless Seven
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« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2017, 04:34:09 PM »

Hi.  Jediseth may be correct but I'm not entirely sure.  I tried to get the LED out via the emitter end from a v4 Initiate and it likely would have if the wires were longer. There is a slight lip/indentation in the saber style at the visible top of the LED, but should be just enough room to come out.  Another alternative to the previous suggestion is to get some red JST quick disconnect clips so that you can use both the green and orange LED's.  If you are going to go through all that work and extra expensive for a stunt saber then I suggest that you purchase a Tri-orange LED.  The Sentinel Yellow can have a greenish hue so request that it be more on the yellow side.

You didn't mention if this was a stunt or a loaded saber or what the switch type is.  More details and even a photo would be helpful.

Here's a Initiate v3 with the JST conversion.  Smiley






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Jediseth
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"If I told you, you wouldn't like it." Han Solo


« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2017, 05:09:10 PM »

Not owning any MHS sabers I just assumed you had to go through the bottom end, I might be wrong. He says in the tittle of the thread it's a V4. Ya if he can pull the led out the top end easy peasy.
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Guardian : GB, FOC Red, V4, 11-15                        Reaper: V4, BR, 4-17
Chosen One CE : Emerald, V4, 12-15
Consular: Emerald V4, 1-16
Manticore: BR, FOC Orange, QD, V4, 11-16
Monarch: Emerald, V4, 2016 Autumn Raffle -1st
Arbiter: V4, SD, Silver FOC, QD, 3-17
Archon V2.1, Diamond, 4-17

Dauntless Seven
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« Reply #4 on: May 24, 2017, 05:42:29 PM »

Not owning any MHS sabers I just assumed you had to go through the bottom end, I might be wrong. He says in the tittle of the thread it's a V4. Ya if he can pull the led out the top end easy peasy.


Now I'm really confused.  All the sabers in your signature are either pommel/emitter or both MHS ( multi-hilt system ) compatible.  Also what specifically are you referring to with v4 ? The most recent style of Aeon/Dominix/Initiate or the v4 Obsidian soundboard ?  Thanks for the clarification so that we are sort of on the same page.  Smiley
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Jediseth
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"If I told you, you wouldn't like it." Han Solo


« Reply #5 on: May 24, 2017, 05:46:27 PM »

Oh crap I'm an idiot I have no idea. Maybe it is a stunt and in that case just buy another saber.
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Guardian : GB, FOC Red, V4, 11-15                        Reaper: V4, BR, 4-17
Chosen One CE : Emerald, V4, 12-15
Consular: Emerald V4, 1-16
Manticore: BR, FOC Orange, QD, V4, 11-16
Monarch: Emerald, V4, 2016 Autumn Raffle -1st
Arbiter: V4, SD, Silver FOC, QD, 3-17
Archon V2.1, Diamond, 4-17

Dauntless Seven
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« Reply #6 on: May 24, 2017, 05:55:21 PM »

Oh crap I'm an idiot I have no idea. Maybe it is a stunt and in that case just buy another saber.


Don't be so hard on yourself and at least you are trying to help out this person.  Wink

I still after years continue to call things wrong... such as the JST connectors... routinely call them JVC like the electronics company that makes sound recording, dvd and tv items.  Smiley
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Jediseth
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"If I told you, you wouldn't like it." Han Solo


« Reply #7 on: May 24, 2017, 05:58:40 PM »

Lol thanks! Maybe this person will clear things up. Or maybe be a one time post and take off, we shall see.
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Guardian : GB, FOC Red, V4, 11-15                        Reaper: V4, BR, 4-17
Chosen One CE : Emerald, V4, 12-15
Consular: Emerald V4, 1-16
Manticore: BR, FOC Orange, QD, V4, 11-16
Monarch: Emerald, V4, 2016 Autumn Raffle -1st
Arbiter: V4, SD, Silver FOC, QD, 3-17
Archon V2.1, Diamond, 4-17

Akheron
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« Reply #8 on: May 25, 2017, 04:47:14 AM »


Your hardest part will be getting that switch out, but it can be done. Your first step will be sniping the wires with the batteries out and pulling out the speaker/ sound board / battery pack first so you can get to the switch. From there you can see if you can cut the hot glue around the switch with a long skinny knife and pop it out. You can heat up the glue and melt it also, but I haven't tried that, others have. Wiring the led from there should be pretty straight forward.

I recently had to take the AV switch out of my V4 Initiate, and it actually wasn't very hard. I melted the glue reasonably quickly using a regular hair dryer, and then the switch lifted right out. No need to mess with the battery pack wiring. The LED is sort of free-floating in there, you can push it out through the switch hole. You could maybe push it out through the battery opening if you have something long and slim enough to get in there.

If I understand correctly, guarded switches can be pulled out without even melting glue.

I don't know if there is enough slack in the wires to pull the LED fully out, but I imagine the worst case scenario is that you might have to make some extra snips.

The operation will probably be easier if you don't have sound, a recharge port, or an illuminated AV switch, but I don't think it would be any problem for someone with the skills and tools.
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Ultrasabers what I own:

Dark Initiate LE V4 - Diamond
Dark Apprentice LE V4 - Diamond
Bellicose - Emerald, ObsidianV4
Apprentice V4 - Tri-Guardian Blue, ObsidianV4
Crimson Scorpion - Blazing Red, Silver FoC, ObsidianV4 <- Raffle Prize Smiley

Isola815
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« Reply #9 on: May 25, 2017, 07:37:13 AM »

JS and D7 pretty much covered it (points) but just in case you want it in one post


Same process if you have stunt, sound, diamond, or whatever:

The LED will come out the top if you shake it hard enough. Then you just put a flat screwdriver down there and pry the hot glue off the back of the AV switch, (just use a rag and a flat screwdriver if it's a guarded switch and pry it up from outside the saber) or use a long blade and cut the glue, then pry it off (the glue) with a flat screwdriver. The switch will come out, then just pull the bits of glue out. It's so much easier this way than cleaning up all the glue after you melt it off.

Find the right hex wrench for the led unit and unscrew the outside from the inside. Snip the switch wires, then slide everything out the battery pack end.

Much easier to change the led unit outside the saber than try and stuff about through the neck. Obviously remove the cover from the new unit before slotting it all through.

Tie some string to the switch wires, push the string through the saber and use some pliers or a hook to pull it through the switch hole. As you feed everything back in from the battery pack end, pull more string through the hole until the wires come through. Pull the LED out the top and put the lens and casing back on. Don't push the LED back in yet.

Strip your switch wires and solder them back on to the switch (doesn't matter what side they go to) and use some heat shrink over the new soldered joints. Press fit your guarded switch, or push your guarded switch in and tape it down with the bezel in place. Tape it down HARD. SUPER HARD. Or you will get a rattle from your bezel.

Get your hot glue gun (make sure it's totally warmed up), jam it down the neck as far as you can, or so you can at least see where you're gluing. Squeeze the glue very slowly so it leaves the tip at a snails' pace it will keep the glue hotter if you go slower and will keep it less viscous. Keep globbing glue down on to the section of hilt where the switch comes through try and get an even covering to go from both sides. If your glue is hot enough and you hold the saber on the right angle the glue will also cover the battery pack side of the switch as it runs down the sides. Put some glue on the top (led side) of the switch as well so you have a fairly even circle of glue.

IMPORTANT:
Let that glue cool and dry for a long time before you take that tape off or you run the risk of the very center of the glue still being wet, the switch moving, and your bezel developing a rattle. I usually just leave for a few hours because I'm pretty patient.

When the glue is dry, take the tape off, and push your led back in. Put your batteries back in, put your pommel on, and enjoy your new color.




Or, just buy a second saber and get orange this time  Cool

Also this:

By the way be sure to go read the rules and acknowledge them before posting. It's at the top in red. And Welcome to the forum!
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wrongalpha
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« Reply #10 on: June 08, 2017, 01:04:43 PM »

sorry ive been on vacation. my initiate V4 is a stunt saber and ive fixed the issue of the batteries being free floating, i just added a little more velcro around the battery pack so that it doesnt move around inside but i can also take the battery pack out pretty easy if need be
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Draigas
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« Reply #11 on: June 15, 2017, 08:44:26 AM »

I am in th same boat, I have an Initiate v4 with Li-On batteries and no sound.  Ordered one blue, which I love, and one green, which I hate so much that I can't even express my dislike, I don't even want to turn it on.  😞

I'm torn between trying to pry it out and replace with a red led, or buying a new one.  So far I haven't been able to get the led housing to budge in the hilt, but I have not tried to remove the hot glue.
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Dauntless Seven
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« Reply #12 on: June 15, 2017, 03:34:00 PM »

I am in the same boat, I have an Initiate v4 with Li-On batteries and no sound.  Ordered one blue, which I love, and one green, which I hate so much that I can't even express my dislike, I don't even want to turn it on.  😞

I'm torn between trying to pry it out and replace with a red led, or buying a new one.  So far I haven't been able to get the led housing to budge in the hilt, but I have not tried to remove the hot glue.


Hi.  The CG really is a nice bright strong color but I'm also not much of a big fan of green blades.  It will make a good spare for a friend or for practicing.  Here's my suggestion.  Get yourself a sample book of Lee or Rosecolux theatrical gel filters.  Putting a yellow filter over the green LED will give you an awesome toxic shade.  Using a blue filter will give you more of deeper cyan shade.  You could also get the plastic color discs with your next order which may change the hue to something you like more.  The gel filters will be better since the green is so vivid.  Smiley
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