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Author Topic: Guardian Overhaul  (Read 2129 times)
Kouri
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Artisan


« on: August 31, 2017, 06:00:28 PM »

Most of the "overhaul" was electronic, so the hilt doesn't show too many signs of modification.



But I'll still walk through the process.

One of the first things I fixed was the over-sized shroud. It never wobbled, thanks to all the screws holding it in place, but it was definitely off-center at the pommel. A few wraps of tape on either end of the underlying hilt made sure the shroud would sit centered when re-attached:



Next thing I wanted was a discreet switch. Easy to intentionally hit, but difficult to accidentally press, while not standing out since the original prop had no button in that location. Went for a recessed 12mm AV switch and touched up the exposed aluminum to keep everything in that area black:



Pommel was drilled out to support a recharge port. Idea is that, once I've finalized the internals, I won't have to worry about opening this hilt again:



Standard US electronics weren't going to make the most of the LED - even 14500s can't put out enough current, so I wound up designing a chassis that would let me put an 18650 lithium-ion to use. Board space was intentionally left wide to maximize my install options. Channel cut into the speaker mount to allow recharge port wires to run:



After a bit of back and forth, I eventually decided to use up an old NBv2 I had kicking around. Had I known this ahead of time, I would've designed a chassis that specifically fit the board. Instead, some double-stick tape held the board in place after everything was soldered:



And some hot-melt glue kept the wires in place so they wouldn't stress the solder joints when sliding the chassis into place:


All of this led up to the primary focus of this overhaul - the LED. I wanted to experiment with a custom Tri-Cree XT-E Royal Blue. The LED star is capable of handling ~4500mA, but, as wired, probably won't pull too much more than 3000mA. It's still a world of difference brighter than a typical Single-or-Tri-Cree hooked into a 1000mA buckpuck though (house lights on, same as first photo):

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Taegin Roan
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Lord of the Force


« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2017, 07:01:13 PM »

Wow, that is awesome. I love how bright it is. Good to see you back too.

Point to you
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Lady Agana Kath
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« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2017, 07:32:20 PM »

Holy Sith that is awesome! Point
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Edon Bluewolf
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« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2017, 07:52:31 PM »

Great work Kouri!
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tx_tuff
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« Reply #4 on: August 31, 2017, 09:47:26 PM »

You did a great job!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

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RevanReborn
Technomancer of the Graflex Order
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« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2017, 04:39:43 PM »

hey Kouri!! long time no see, how's things? 

Great work on the guardian man, as always Smiley.  Love the pommel port- big fan of those myself.  Not the most convenient for the install lol, but so worth it.
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Kouri
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Artisan


« Reply #6 on: September 05, 2017, 02:40:08 PM »

Thanks guys!

I'd be in more often, but it's not too often I'm working on a US hilt, and I'm not about to step on any toes bringing it other projects.

That said, I've got two more US mods in the works, so I'll hopefully be showing those off in another month or two.

Also working on a video for this one once I dial in the motion parameters.
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scifidude79
8-bit Defender of the Aeon Order
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« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2017, 03:09:15 PM »

DUDE!  That looks fantastic, especially that 12mm low profile button.  It blends in just like you wanted it to.  That 3D printed chassis is really nice too.  Man, I need to get me a 3D printer for doing that kind of thing.  And that blade, super bright.  Awesome stuff as always, Kouri.
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Kouri
Knight Commander
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Artisan


« Reply #8 on: September 19, 2017, 12:46:42 PM »

Finally tuned that swing sensor.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvO3fiBCQrs" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvO3fiBCQrs</a>
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Wahshiya
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« Reply #9 on: September 19, 2017, 05:42:15 PM »

That is some amazing work.  

I have just begun dabbling in saber modifications and I have read through a lot of your posts, very helpful and inspiring.  

Is the brightness simply due to the high current LED?  What do you use for optics?  I have not been happy with most of the optics have tried in my saber tinkering thus far.  I do not get anything close to that full and bright of a blade.
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Current Ultra Sabers arsenal:
Emperor's Hand - Menace emitter, Emerald controller and v4 Obsidian SB
Archon 3.1 - Diamond controller
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Dark War Glaive - RGB w/ v4 SB
Raven - BR w/ v4 SB
"Revanite Sentinel" (customized Dark Sentinel V4) - Red - stunt
"Revanite Sentinel Reforged" (customized Dark Sentinel V4 LE) - Obsidian V3 SB - Purple w/ QDs
Plus lots more stunt and project sabers
Next up: Scorpion, Malice, Flamberge V2

BatMike90
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Dark (Knight) Side Points.


« Reply #10 on: September 19, 2017, 05:49:12 PM »

Wow. That is really cool. Wish I had the confidence to start and finish a project like this.
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Arsenel:
RGBW DIAMOND: Archon v3.1 / Dominicide / Graflex SE /  Guardian
V4 SOUND : Dark Prophecy v3 (x2) / Emperor's Hand
STUNT: Aeon v4 / Bellicose / Dark Apprentice v4 (x2) / Dark Prophecy v3 (x2) / Phantom Initiate V4 / Prophecy v3 / Renegade LE / Scorpion (x2)
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Kouri
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Force Alignment: 328
Posts: 579


Artisan


« Reply #11 on: September 20, 2017, 12:35:32 PM »

Is the brightness simply due to the high current LED?  What do you use for optics?  I have not been happy with most of the optics have tried in my saber tinkering thus far.  I do not get anything close to that full and bright of a blade.

Not much to improve with optics. Whether single or tri, a narrow spot lens (8-10° for a single, 16-18° for a tri) is your best bet to lighting up a blade.

A big part of it is properly driving the LED. Even the US Tri-Crees are actually rated at ~3000mA, and would be a lot brighter if given the proper power.

Then it's improving blade diffusion. There's not much to be done about the brightness hit of a heavy grade blade, but diffusing the surface helps to at least even it out.

Last bit is camera tricks, which anyone who owns a saber is familiar with. I've got a pretty solid blue on this blade, but it's still not (and won't ever be) that movie-white-core look in-person.
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TheDutchman
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« Reply #12 on: September 20, 2017, 12:56:57 PM »

Wow. That is really cool. Wish I had the confidence to start and finish a project like this.
Heh I feel you Mike  Grin Tongue

Not much to improve with optics. Whether single or tri, a narrow spot lens (8-10° for a single, 16-18° for a tri) is your best bet to lighting up a blade.

A big part of it is properly driving the LED. Even the US Tri-Crees are actually rated at ~3000mA, and would be a lot brighter if given the proper power.

Then it's improving blade diffusion. There's not much to be done about the brightness hit of a heavy grade blade, but diffusing the surface helps to at least even it out.

Last bit is camera tricks, which anyone who owns a saber is familiar with. I've got a pretty solid blue on this blade, but it's still not (and won't ever be) that movie-white-core look in-person.
Kouri, you are an incredible artisan^^  Regardless of the disparity between RL and movies, you've done a terrific job!

Heh with your second sentence there I couldn't help but think of Tim Taylor exclaiming "MORE POWER!"  Wink
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My sabers:Zearic's Aldrnari, Archon v3 (modded w/ activation box) w/Obsidian, AS; Zearic's shoto, Apprentice v4 w/Obsidian, AS; Graflex SE w/Obsidian, GB; Archon v3 (modded w/ activation box) w/Obsidian, CG; Dark Sentinel v4 w/Obsidian, BR; Sentinel LE v4 w/Obsidian, GB; Initiate v5 w/Obsidian, AS; Sentinel LE v4 stunt, EG; Aeon LE v4 stunt, FO; Dominix v4 stunt, BR; Aeon v3 stunt, SY

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