Mystery Box Customization - Ongoing Build

[Zyn]

So my most recent mystery box was an Aeon V4 stunt in FO, making it my second blade in such color. Overall, I was pretty underwhelmed with it, but after some thought, I decided to try my hand at some customization. After a quick trip to both the hardware and craft stores, I came home with some O-rings and a couple of tubes of Rub N Buff (thank you God Emperor Adam Savage for turning me on to this stuff).

Now, I noticed several scratches on the hilt (whether it was me or not, I have no clue), but they honestly work out well as it gives the Rub N Buff a great area to adhere to. Using some gold leaf RnB, I applied it to some of the scratched areas, and I think it gives it a nice worn, beat-up look. I also picked up some silver RnB, and added both colors to the O-rings. Pictures below show the results.

Now, I've thought about combining this hilt with my first mystery box (Dark Sentinel stunt in GB) to make a saber staff. However, I'd really like to keep the color consistent. Should I switch the Aeon color to GB? Or should I change both to something more exotic like VA or SD?

And one last question, when I switch out the LEDs on an Aeon or Dark Sentinel, do I need the regular LED module? Or the MLS one from US?



After adding O-rings


After adding Rub N Buff

Note: I apologize for the cruddy image. Poor lighting + phone camera = yuck. Additional images will be better.

[scifidude79]

And one last question, when I switch out the LEDs on an Aeon or Dark Sentinel, do I need the regular LED module? Or the MLS one from US?

You need the standard LED module with the flat sides:

https://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/led%20module.htm

To answer your first question, I wouldn't advise doing a mixed color unless you plan to upgrade to Li-Ion batteries and a buck puck.  Without the puck, your VA will turn red as your batteries drain and I believe SRD turns green.  This is a problem with one LED drawing less power than the other, so the lower battery output makes it possible for that LED to run brighter while the other fades.  The buck puck keeps the power levels consistent on both LEDs.  You can, of course, do a mixed color with the standard AAA setup and a resistor, UltraSabers sells them that way.  But, that will happen.

[Zyn]

You need the standard LED module with the flat sides:

https://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/led%20module.htm

To answer your first question, I wouldn't advise doing a mixed color unless you plan to upgrade to Li-Ion batteries and a buck puck.  Without the puck, your VA will turn red as your batteries drain and I believe SRD turns green.  This is a problem with one LED drawing less power than the other, so the lower battery output makes it possible for that LED to run brighter while the other fades.  The buck puck keeps the power levels consistent on both LEDs.  You can, of course, do a mixed color with the standard AAA setup and a resistor, UltraSabers sells them that way.  But, that will happen.

Guardian Blue it is then!

Thanks for the info.

[scifidude79]

Guardian Blue it is then!

Thanks for the info.

No problem.  Also, I forgot to mention that messing around with the electronics voids your warranty.  Just FYI.

[Zyn]

No problem.  Also, I forgot to mention that messing around with the electronics voids your warranty.  Just FYI.

For a blade I wasn't that happy with in the first place, it's all good.

[Karmack]

Sometimes a little paint can make the old Aeon pop...  (the Aeon is in the middle)
Also have an Archon pommel, which works very nicely with this hilt.  :-)

[Zyn]

Sometimes a little paint can make the old Aeon pop...  (the Aeon is in the middle)
Also have an Archon pommel, which works very nicely with this hilt.  :-)

what kind of paint did you put on there? I can't imagine anything short of automotive paint (complete with media blasting, baking, and clear coat) sticks to bare aluminum well

[Karmack]

Its actually Testors "Model Master" paint.  Gunmetal is the color.  The Acrylic version.  Just lay it on thick with a good brush.  :-)

It does chip a bit after a while, but it actually adds to the weathered look and since you're putting it into grooves and recesses it holds very well.  It is good to wipe the hilt off with an alcohol wipe and let it air-dry before you paint it though to get any oil and grime from handling off the hilt.

[scifidude79]

For a blade I wasn't that happy with in the first place, it's all good.

Heh, I figured you weren't too worried about it and you sound like you know what you're doing anyway.  I just like to remind people of that.  I've bought Grab Bags in the past with the specific purpose of tearing them apart, customizing and rebuilding them, so I know where you're coming from.

Sometimes a little paint can make the old Aeon pop...  (the Aeon is in the middle)
Also have an Archon pommel, which works very nicely with this hilt.  :-)

That's hot.  I really wish UltraSabers offered an anodizing option on the lower end sabers that was silver with black accents.  But, alas, it's up to us to do that ourselves.

[Jediseth]

 That Aeon paint job does look good Karmack. Point for the share for sure.

[Therion Jinn]

Very nicely done there

[Zyn]

Small update on the Aeon/Dark Sentinel staff build:

a dark adjustable coupler has been ordered, as well as a new GB LED module to change the Aeon from FO. I may continue some weathering on both hilts while I wait for the parts to arrive.

Note: I'm still kicking around the idea of replacing the Sentinel GB with FO (ripped from my Reaper) so that I have a uniform blade color. Who knows, maybe I will still do it.

[Zyn]

I'm still waiting for my coupler and other misc parts to ship, but while I do, I've been reading Drahcir's customization thread, and I've got to say, it's given me some good ideas.

Last night, I took a couple of Dremel bits to my Dark Sentinel in an attempt to weather it a bit, and so far, I like what I see. Who knew a simple sanding disc and a wire wheel could get you so far?

I didn't think to grab pictures while I was working, but I will try to post them tonight when I get back to the work bench.

[Zyn]

The coupler is here, and after joining the Dark Sentinel and Aeon (without changing colors), it is awesome! I did some spins in the yard with 36" blades, and I have to say, this thing is monstrously long, but not nearly as heavy as I was expecting. The length certainly limits indoor use, but I can imagine that in a duel, the length alone will make it quite intimidating.

I will certainly be keeping this as a staff (making it a Sentinel's Aeon, perhaps?), and while I continue to weather the hilts (and now the coupler), I'm still weighing on which one to switch. So far, I'm leaning toward FO on both instead of GB...

OP's note: I know, I suck at taking pictures, but seeing as I do most of my work at night, I'm drained by the time I finish for the day, and bed is on my mind more than pictures. I promise I will come through soon.

[Zyn]

Progress update time:

So after finally getting myself a new soldering iron, I went a little nuts testing my skills last night, but I have to say, this was easier than I thought it would be. I've never been into electronics repair, so I had to do some research before I started, but it turned out well despite my lack of skill.

Ripped the FO module out of my Reaper and replaced it with AB (looks awesome!), and replaced the GB in my Dark Sentinel with the FO from the Reaper before combining it with the FO Aeon into one kickass staff. Pictures below.

Note: I also went a little nuts taking my dremel tool to the Dark Sentinel hilt, but I didn't get close-up photos of what I actually did. New ones coming soon.

Reaper:


Dark Sentinel/Aeon Staff:


Now to gather up my courage to wire in FoC on my Obsidian Board to give my Emperor's Hand a sweet upgrade...