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Author Topic: Flash on Clash option  (Read 293994 times)
Deep
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« Reply #90 on: October 18, 2012, 09:17:17 PM »

According to the list, VA with BH FoC would be possible, but BH with VA FoC is not possible. That seems a bit strange to me considering that all the other color/FoC combinations are symmetric (meaning that if color A with color B FoC is possible, then also color B with color A FoC is possible).

Is this a mistake in the list?

Not a mistake.  The resistor configuration makes the reverse impossible.  SRD can flash AB but AB can not flash SRD (even though I think it say's it can in the list).

VA can flash BH but BH can't flash VA  Sad
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Emory "Deep" Harris
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Noriko
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« Reply #91 on: October 18, 2012, 09:26:42 PM »

 Sad

Well, thanks for the answer, Deep.
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Arctic Blue Shock LE
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Mentor501
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« Reply #92 on: October 21, 2012, 03:31:44 PM »

Mentor,

I do believe the only 10W star base attached LED is the LEDEngin.  We are talking 5 W difference so it will not be like a 40W vs 60W lightbulb.  Those you can see a noticeable difference.  I am sure that if you use a luminometer, the 10W will be brighter.  As to how the naked sees it, not so much.  Of course, I am writing based on the eyesight of a 38 year old male.  Females see light differences more clearly than males and age does affect light views as well. 

Often times, the brand of LED they choose in the 5W range depends on which company provides more lumens.  Seoul P4 has the brightest red but the deeper blue of Guardian Blue has to come from a Rebel Star.  I have owned Seoul P4 Blue and it looks nothing like my Guardian Blue.  Of course, price factors as well if the lumen difference is not significant.

On the subject of 10W vs 5W, they are not using all 4 dies on the LEDEngin so you are not getting a full 10W of power going through that thing.  Therefore, you have another factor of why you will not be getting a huge difference (or noticeable with my eyes) in the brightness. 

We do have a smith on here that has experimented with 10W single color LEDEngin and he has talked about the difficulty getting the power cells and resistance just right so that he got a full 10W of power going.  Often times, he just wires them in parallel rather than series and uses lower voltage to prevent heat buildup. 

Sorry about going off a technical tangent but in the end, you are getting brightness whether you purchase the single die Green or the Green + FOC. 

Blue


I didn't expect it to be brighter than a 5W at all, actually I thought of the opposite because of the reasons you mentioned and indeed: I got my sword and ... well it's bright alright but still too dim for my eyes. With the blade attached it looks more like a very unevenly painted stick under normal lightning conditions while blinding you in total darkness of course.

My problem is that I love the foc effect, in my opinion it's totally worth it but it gives green-color-users like myself a real headache since if you buy via US you don't get the chance for a RGGB LED which would be really appreciated by me though I don't know if the 7.4V are even enough for GG+FoC.

What about the arctic blue option? That should be B+G and the white (or Red) as FoC but is that full power on both and serial wiring or // wiring with or without a resistor in between (for G and B of course)?

I'm currently wondering if I should buy a Rebel Star green MLS unit for best brightness in green or an Arctic Blue MLS unit with white foc for comparable or even better brightness and my beloved foc effect.
Maybe I will end up with both but I want to decide on one thing first.

Sadly I didn't find any shop offering the 5w LedEngine LED which is kinda weird since anyone seems to be in agreement that they are the brightest of the single die options.
« Last Edit: October 21, 2012, 04:10:43 PM by Mentor501 » Logged

Vex
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« Reply #93 on: October 22, 2012, 12:04:17 AM »

I don't know if it's possible, but the new forum color Emerald Green is made with an RGB led I believe . It might be possible to have that FoC. Just a thought.
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Mooose
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« Reply #94 on: November 03, 2012, 08:05:18 AM »

Hi everyone. I'm new to the forum and about to make my first purchase from ultrasabers. I'm based in the Uk and want to make sure I get everything right. I'd be grateful for some advice please guys. I'm ordering the Guardian hilt with the guardian blue blade. Questions:

1) what colour for flash on clash with the guardian blue (personally would like violet but don't know if it's possible)?
2) what battery configuration do I need (buck puck or resistor) difference?

I'm going to opt for a blue av switch also.

Thanks so much
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Mooose
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« Reply #95 on: November 03, 2012, 08:43:38 AM »

On checking the table on p.1, it seems banes heart is the foc option to go for
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Vex
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« Reply #96 on: November 03, 2012, 11:32:17 AM »

BuckPuck is much better than the resistor. For Flash the Violet Ambethyst is not available with Gaurdian Blue. You can find a chart by selecting a saber with sound on the Ultra Sabers site, then scroll to the bottom.  Silver Flash looks great with all of the colors, yellow, red, green, orange, Pyrestone (red/orange) are the available flash colors for Gaurdian blue.
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Mooose
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« Reply #97 on: November 03, 2012, 01:18:53 PM »

Thank you Vex, but am I right in saying that BH is also available for Guardian blue?
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Big Boss
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« Reply #98 on: November 03, 2012, 04:08:54 PM »

Thank you Vex, but am I right in saying that BH is also available for Guardian blue?

Nope, if you check the chart again on page 1. Only red, green, orange, silver, preystone or yellow can be foc colors for G Blue
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Mooose
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« Reply #99 on: November 03, 2012, 04:56:09 PM »

I was reading the chart the wrong way around  Roll Eyes Thanks so much!
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Mooose
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« Reply #100 on: November 03, 2012, 05:09:25 PM »

I think its going to have to be red  Grin
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OrigamiGuru
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« Reply #101 on: November 10, 2012, 07:19:41 AM »

Does anybody know what FOC colors are available with DVA? I'm thinking DVA with a GB or AB FOC would be pretty killer, and I'd like to know what colors are available before I order.
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Master Bluespike74
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« Reply #102 on: November 10, 2012, 01:02:22 PM »

Does anybody know what FOC colors are available with DVA? I'm thinking DVA with a GB or AB FOC would be pretty killer, and I'd like to know what colors are available before I order.

It is the same ones available for Violet Amethyst. 
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Guided by the Aing Tii Monks

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haldir
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« Reply #103 on: November 12, 2012, 07:41:16 PM »

can anyone clarify for me what LED's are used for which colors?

are any of the colors actually brighter with FOC?

i see some people talking about FOC using different LEDs than the single colors, some people are saying that the FOC uses a 10W LED but that not all 10W get used?

I have one saber with FOC (srd with silver flash) and it does seem brighter than any of  my other sabers but is that just because SRD is a brighter color? or is it because it has FOC and is therefore a higher watt LED?

im curious because if the colors are indeed brighter with the FOC then i would be more likely to get  FOC on future sabers
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Master Bluespike74
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« Reply #104 on: November 12, 2012, 08:12:39 PM »

can anyone clarify for me what LED's are used for which colors?

are any of the colors actually brighter with FOC?

i see some people talking about FOC using different LEDs than the single colors, some people are saying that the FOC uses a 10W LED but that not all 10W get used?

I have one saber with FOC (srd with silver flash) and it does seem brighter than any of  my other sabers but is that just because SRD is a brighter color? or is it because it has FOC and is therefore a higher watt LED?

im curious because if the colors are indeed brighter with the FOC then i would be more likely to get  FOC on future sabers

I believe that BR, CG, and AS use 5W Seoul P4's; FO, GB, SRD, AB, and VA use Rebel Stars with the last three being a combination of 2 colors from an RGB model. 

All colors are brighter but not significantly brighter with Flash on Clash models as they use a 10W LED Engin. 

The non FOC sabers use the 5W LED's as they are either a single die or contain three dies on the RGB models.  The Flash on Clash sabers have 4 dies with a combined rating of 10W.  Since most of the sabers require 2-3 dies to make the primary color plus flash on clash, you will not be using the full 10W of power. 

The brightness comes from two factors:  the lumens a specific color produces and the number of dies used in the mixing of the colors.  For your example of SRD with AS FOC:  You have blue and green (the highest lumens of all colored LED's) mixed to produce the SRD.  The you have AS that comes from a white.  If you have 10W spread over 4 dies, that is 5W per side.  So on the wattage, you have a primary color that is equal to a 5W RGB used for a non flash on clash.  Most of what you are seeing is an optical illusion.  People see certain colors better than others.  You obviously are like most of the population in that the colors of Blue and Green are the brightest in your eyes. 

I have both non FOC and FOC sabers.  My Guardian Blue non vs my Guardian Blue FOC are no different in brightness.  In the end though, it all amounts to what you personally see.  One of the administrators, Deep, has a wonderful thread about blade types and what colors look best.  He reminds everyone that those are his opinions as he is basing his decisions on what he personally sees best.  Deep feel that Blazing Red should not be in UEHG blades while Zren Tobas has made a video with Blazing Red in an UEHG and he says it looks great to him. 

I say do the following:  if you have access to an FOC and non FOC saber of the same color, compare them.  If you think the color looks brighter in the FOC configuration, then I would recommend purchasing future sabers with that option. 

If you do not have access, then shoot me a PM.  I'll do a video of my Guardian Blue with Silver Flash on Clash using a 10W LED Engin LED in Heavy Grade Blade against my Guardian Blue saber with the 5W Rebel Star LED so that you can decide based on the video. 

I hope this long explanation gives you better information or helps move you toward a more informed decision.

Blue
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