No contradiction? I'm confused. You wrote "on the wattage, you have a primary color that is equal to a 5W RGB used for a non flash on clash." Deep says a mixed color FOC setup is higher wattage. Are you now agreeing with that? It's higher wattage, you just think no one can see the difference?
What's the 4th die in your FOC description? I understand a 3 die RGB, and you mix all 3 to get white. Is Ultrasabers using a special 4 die LED and what's the 4th die for?
I've seen Deep (& others) post that people's perception of brightness, and color, varies. Maybe he sees no appreciable difference between a lower wattage and a higher wattage, but others might. No one's eyes have a "speed limit" (unless we're talking so bright that we're going to go temporarily blind). I know I can tell the difference between a 75W bulb and a 100W bulb. Can I tell the difference between a 5W saber and a higher Watt saber? In a dark or bright room? Maybe.
I did an entire video on this when people were arguing about battery voltages giving brighter colors and the majority saw no difference.
The 10 Watt LED's have 4 dies: A red, a green, a blue and the 4th is either a white or amber. You can visit LEDEngin's websites to verify this. These LED's are always used in the FOC configurations.
If you have a non FOC, then you either have a single color LED or a 5W RGB (3 die) LED that mixes colors to get the desired effect.
The speed limit comment goes back to my video where I showing that it is the resistor that controls the brightness, not the voltage. Same thing here, the resistor controls the brightness, not the wattage.
Wattage is a rating for a light bulb's power consumption and output. Lumens is a measure of the light's brightness.
Honestly this is an old argument that I thought had long been resolved. My thoughts are "what is the purpose of your question?" Are you just looking for an argument or are you truly wanting more information?
You need to look at what Deep also wrote a little deeper.
(Here is his original post)
1. If 2+ Diodes are connected (for example Arctic Blue, Violet Amethyst, SRD, SY, BH, etc) then mathematically the 10W RGB is brighter. If only one diode is connected then mathematically the Seoul P4 is brighter. By seriously, you need to be looking with some kind of special light absorbing tool to see the difference. They all look great.
(end quote)
Now if you look at it, Deep states that if you are using a combo color, then the 10W would be MATHEMATICALLY brighter but if you are using a single color MATHEMATICALLY the 5W would be brighter.
If you want a 10W LED, then purchase the Flash on Clash. That is the purpose this thread. It is not to debate semantics.
I own 5W single LED, 5W RGB, and 10W Flash on Clash sabers. I never have people coming to me pointing and saying, that saber is brighter. All I hear is that "D*mn, those sabers are bright."
Go to the LED's websites. Look at the lumens, wattages, forward voltages, resistance values, and do the math if you are wanting to find a miniscule difference in brightness. More work that it is worth.
Flash on Clash sabers use a 10W LED Engin RGBW or RGBA LED. Non Flash on Clash Sabers use a 5W Seoul P4 or Rebel Star LED.
This is my final statement on this. I am not here to defend or contradict anyone else on this forum. I am here to help people make a decision that will make them feel good about their saber purchase.
Have a nice day.
