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Author Topic: Upgrading standard LED to Tri-Cree LED...?  (Read 150 times)
Karmack
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« on: February 13, 2018, 10:12:24 AM »

Hey guys!  this may be a dumb question, but I wanted to toss this out before I bought anything...

I have a stunt saber (Dominix V4) with a standard red LED in it.  I am of a mind to get a Tri-Cree silver LED, equipped with quick disconnects, and appropriate parts to add the QDs to the existing LED and lead as well.

So, a couple of questions:

First, has anyone had any issues replacing a standard LED with a Tri Cree?  I am thinking it should be essentially a 1-for-1 swap, but I don't know if the Tri Cree requires three power leads?  Or do they share the same lead and split inside the LED module?

Second, what is the labor like to add QD hardware?  And does anyone know what the actual connector is called / size, etc? 

Third, can I even add the QD hardware for an LED in an Aeon/Dominix?  I don't know if the hilt uses the MLS module or the normal module...

Thanks!
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« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2018, 10:23:44 AM »

Hey Karmack,

The Aeon/Dominix do indeed use a standard LED module, and not an MLS (fixed, non-MHS emitters).

As for the lead wires, they could indeed converge at the connector, and go into one, but I BELIEVE it would require a different resistor.

If it's going to a puck though, you'd be good.

Just getting easy access to that LED module would be tricky.
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Karmack
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« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2018, 10:57:13 AM »

Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of...

This is a stunt, no sound or anything, so no buckpuck.  :-/    I may just purchase the Tri-Cree and see what happens.  If I get three wires,  well...  I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. :-)

The LED module shouldn't be to much of a hassle as long as there's enough lead wire, I think I can just tap it out the front, and work from there.  Same way I've done repairs on the battery packs just on the other end.  :-)
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tx_tuff
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« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2018, 02:59:07 PM »

When you order a Tri Cree crib US with a QD the LED wire come pre-wired in the LED module with heat sink. It will also come with the other end of the QD wiring to add to the wires coming from the battery.

Depending on the color and the battery wattage will depend on what resistors you need. They can be added to the positive side or negative side wires. Here is a calculator to figure out which resistor https://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-led-series-resistor

The US website does not post the voltage of the LEDs. Go to TCSS Tri Cree parts section http://www.ultrasabers.com/Tri-Cree-XP-E2-C138.aspx look at the come you want and it has an the info you need for LED voltage and mA. You will need this info for the calculator.

All of this may sound confusing but it is pretty simple once you figure it out (using the calculator). You can get resistors at TCSS or Amazon etc..

Good luck and search any of this on YouTube if you need help.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

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hazard502
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« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2018, 08:55:59 PM »

I've added QD's to every emitter style - fixed like the Dominix and ones with MHS emitters.

A key to doing it for the non-MHS hilts is making sure the battery pack is in all the way giving you enough slack in the wires for the LED to slide out the top. 

After that it's the art of cram fu trying to slide it all back in there lol.
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Karmack
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« Reply #5 on: February 14, 2018, 07:23:35 AM »

Thanks guys!  tx_tuff, GREATLY appreciate the information about the different resistors.  This level of customization is fairly new to me and I've only done direct 1-1 swaps before.  The fact that the resistors would change didn't quite click until I read your post.  :-)

Points guys!  Thanks!
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tx_tuff
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« Reply #6 on: February 14, 2018, 03:54:12 PM »

Your welcome. Pretty new to all of this myself but have been researching like crazy LOL

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

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