TCSS LED Modules??

[Son_Of_A_Sith]

Iv been searching the forum and can't seem to find anything regarding this question. Has anyone ever tried putting a TCSS LED module in a ultrasaber? I'm just curious if I can order one from TCSS and put it in my manticore with quick disconnects? Any insight would be awesome

[Therion Jinn]

TCSS does use different connectors that US does.
That, and the heat sinks and housings are opposite from one another.
I've had to make adaptations when I've crossed over between manufacturers like this. Did it in my "Kyrathalia's Deathcry" build, for example

[Son_Of_A_Sith]

Thanks Therion Jinn. I did see that the little lip on the TCSS module was on the bottom as oppose to the top like US. I was just curious as I was going to buy a few things from TCSS and thought about getting a LED if it would work. So are the JST connections different?

[Therion Jinn]

Yes, US uses what looks to be the same connectors TCSS calls 2-wire quick connectors, if I'm right

[Son_Of_A_Sith]

So what If I just wanted to make my quick connects a little longer so I don't have to dig them out of my hilt. Can I order those from TCSS and connect them?

[Therion Jinn]

That's what I did on the Shock I installed quick disconnects on

[Son_Of_A_Sith]

Ok awesome thanks for your help!

[Greywolf]

Well, I used the 'Heatsink module for 1" ID tubes' to modify an Initiate V2 and a Liberator V2.

On the Initiate I used the original set screw to 'fix' the heatsink and used the 'top hole' of the Initiate for a new set screw
-> The blade now is only 1" in, but as my son is swinging the saber around without heavy hitting (or dueling) it's OK for now.

On the Liberator I applied a 'non-reversible' method: I used a steel nail and hammer (through the switch hole) to create a little rim which prevents the heatsink from sliding too much into the hilt (or even pushing against the switch). As long as the blade is in, there's no rattling, all is fixed and fine

[Master Nero Attoru]

Well, I used the 'Heatsink module for 1" ID tubes' to modify an Initiate V2 and a Liberator V2.

On the Initiate I used the original set screw to 'fix' the heatsink and used the 'top hole' of the Initiate for a new set screw
-> The blade now is only 1" in, but as my son is swinging the saber around without heavy hitting (or dueling) it's OK for now.

On the Liberator I applied a 'non-reversible' method: I used a steel nail and hammer (through the switch hole) to create a little rim which prevents the heatsink from sliding too much into the hilt (or even pushing against the switch). As long as the blade is in, there's no rattling, all is fixed and fine

Yeah any of the basic 1" modules will be pretty much universal.  It's when you use the MHS stuff with the lip that things get screwy, those aren't typically compatible with the sabers here (the ones with MLS units).

[Obese Wan Kenobese]

Yeah any of the basic 1" modules will be pretty much universal.  It's when you use the MHS stuff with the lip that things get screwy, those aren't typically compatible with the sabers here (the ones with MLS units).

I am having a tough time navigating TCSS's site. I noticed the lip is backward from Ultrasabers, but I didn't find any without the lip until this post saying it. Thankfully, I went back and found it before buying. Thank you for the question. Thank you for the answers. Points!

Perhaps if I slip an O ring on the 1" module, it will fit snug like the US lip. One step closer to a 410nm purple.

[Son_Of_A_Sith]

The modules with the lip are actually thicker(wider) than the regular led units.. I didn't know this until I took the one out of my dark initiate and compared it to the one in my manticore

[Therion Jinn]

I've run into this a couple of times on my custom builds.
For the Deathcry and on my Shock LE, I swapped housings and heatsinks
On the Lance, I put in a washer of the right size to create a better fit