Icke10
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« on: November 20, 2011, 06:12:51 PM » |
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Hi,
I just installed a 10w led with 4 seperate die in each of my two obsidian board sabers. One had a guardian blue LED while the other had arctic blue before. I'm using the "LED drivers" (not even sure it's called so) which were obstructed. To say the truth the result is not impressive as I hoped for. Would it make sense to change the LED driver (don't know the specs of the existing ones) or just to leave them completely out ? What do you think ?
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Master Artorius Vidnyl
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« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2011, 08:29:34 PM » |
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I'm not sure what you mean by the LED driver? Is there a constant current driver in there or do you mean the resistors?
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Icke10
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« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2011, 10:04:35 PM » |
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I mean the chip which looks like this: http://www.ultrasabers.com/Constant-current-LED-driver-P609.aspxI think it's probably a current LED driver. But as operating with a 3w led before I think it should have not enough ma for the new 10w LED(?)
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Master Artorius Vidnyl
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« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2011, 10:23:55 PM » |
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That link isn't working for me but yes the Constant Current Driver used for a 3w LED will not provide the proper power for a 10w LED. Realize that under-powering an LED is as bad as over-powering it.
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Icke10
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« Reply #4 on: November 20, 2011, 11:01:56 PM » |
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So would you suggest to do. Using a different LED driver (which exactly?) or no driver at all ? I think Ultra saber officials could give me an advice....
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Ultra
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« Reply #5 on: November 21, 2011, 02:37:44 AM » |
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Obstructed? Not sure what you're trying to say there. Provide your wiring diagram and I try to tell you how to improve it.
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Icke10
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« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2011, 02:57:13 AM » |
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I meant the LED driver which was installed when I ordered the saber. To sum things up: I changed nothing on the setup after I got my two sabers apart from the arctic blue and guardian blue LEDs. Both now have a 10w blue (4 seperate die) LED installed. Standard batteries Li-Ion (two 3.7 V in each saber), standard LED-driver they came with. Should I change the existing LED-driver or just run the sabers without any LED drivers to capitalize the 10w full potential ?
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Ultra
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« Reply #7 on: November 21, 2011, 03:05:02 AM » |
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That isn't going to work; a 3watt driver will not power a 10 watt led. This kind of upgrade is going to require you to remove the driver and run the led direct drive with 2 pair of die in series.
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Icke10
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« Reply #8 on: November 21, 2011, 03:32:55 AM » |
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Ok, thanks for the advice. I'll remove the driver. Interestingly the LEDs DO work WITH the driver. But they don't really shine as bright as they could.
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Icke10
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« Reply #9 on: November 21, 2011, 03:52:00 PM » |
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@Ultra: I just got a message from Emory Harris. He explained I necessarily must use a LED driver or proper resistor to make sure not to pull more than 1000mA of current from the obsidian board. Otherwise I will damage the board. As you said I can run the LEDs direct drive I'm undecided. Can you confirm one of these two conflicting statements ?
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Ultra
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« Reply #10 on: November 21, 2011, 06:42:27 PM » |
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Both statements are correct, they are not contradictory. Using a resistor *is* direct drive and you'll always need to do amperage calculations in your builds to find the right one to use. (I went ahead and did the calculations for you in my explanation below with the assumption of a dual li-ion 7.4v setup.)
If you can find a 10watt step-up driver with a 700ma - 1000ma constant current output, then use it with a 3-cell in-series li-ion source and all 4 die in series. That would be the simplest build, but I am assuming you do not have such a device and don't know how to make one or else you wouldn't be posting here.
My suggestion is to run 2 circuits of 2 in-series die with your 7.4v pack. Use a 5watt 6.8ohm resistor in each circuit and you'll stay within safe tolerance of the board while powering the LED at 10 watts.
Keep in mind, this is free advice given in good faith and you should verify my calculations and make sure you have a firm grasp of everything I am saying before you do your build. I am not liable for anything if the unspeakable happens. Of course, nothing you do on your own will be covered under any kind of warranty.
If you aren't following what I am saying, then I would suggest not attempting this until you have a better understanding of circuitry. This is not an insult in any way, it's a standard warning I give to everyone because I honestly have no idea what your level of expertise is.
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Icke10
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« Reply #11 on: November 22, 2011, 01:39:34 AM » |
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Ok, thanks a lot for your help. One last question: Would it make a difference to change the standard speaker to a 2w 8 ohm speaker in addition? Do I have to use a different resistor in that case or should I remain with 5watt 6.8ohm in each circuit ?
Thanks in advance for your advice !
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