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Author Topic: Programming Flash on Clash  (Read 1710 times)
jazzman23
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« on: June 19, 2018, 12:52:35 AM »

Okay, I need a little help here and I hope one of you bright, good-looking people can assist!

I’ve got an arctic blue bladed graflex with lite sound that I’ll be swapping with a premium board. Correct me if I’m wrong, but since Arctic blue is created with a silver and blue diode, shouldn’t I be able to rewire it to guardian blue and have the silver diode become my flash on clash? I’m pretty good at wiring, but I’m not sure of the limitations of the Obsidian V3 board. Thanks in advance!!
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Racona Nova
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« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2018, 05:10:59 PM »

Arctic Blue is made from Blue and Green (with a resistor on Green). And you can indeed rewire the whole thing to Guardian Blue with Silver FoC, You can even use the existing wires, but you need to remove the resistor first (cut the wire with the resistor in between the cutting points) and then extend the wire by using another piece of wire.

Obsidian V3 and V4 are absolutely able to handle that modification. No restrictions or limitations.

Does it have a BuckPuck or a Resistor setup (this resistor is not the one I mentioned above)? If it's Resistor, I recommend changing it to a BuckPuck when you upgrade to Premium Obsidian sound. Also, you need to change your battery setup to a 2x 14500 Li-Ion setup when adding Premium sound. LITE uses 4x AAA batteries which don't provide enough power for Premium sound.
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Phantasm v3 LE (Obs v3) - AB w/ FoC AS---Manticore (Obs v3) - BR w/ FoC AS (QD)---Archon v2.1 (Obs v3) - RGBW Emerald

jazzman23
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Force Alignment: 28
Posts: 36



« Reply #2 on: June 21, 2018, 09:37:24 PM »

Arctic Blue is made from Blue and Green (with a resistor on Green). And you can indeed rewire the whole thing to Guardian Blue with Silver FoC, You can even use the existing wires, but you need to remove the resistor first (cut the wire with the resistor in between the cutting points) and then extend the wire by using another piece of wire.

Obsidian V3 and V4 are absolutely able to handle that modification. No restrictions or limitations.

Does it have a BuckPuck or a Resistor setup (this resistor is not the one I mentioned above)? If it's Resistor, I recommend changing it to a BuckPuck when you upgrade to Premium Obsidian sound. Also, you need to change your battery setup to a 2x 14500 Li-Ion setup when adding Premium sound. LITE uses 4x AAA batteries which don't provide enough power for Premium sound.

The Obsidian premium V3 module I have is from a mystery saber and is powered by a resister setup with two 14500 Li-ion batteries. I just have to remove the guts of both sabers, swap out the battery pack and soundcard, then locate the appropriate wires and splice them together, right?  Thank you so much for responding!
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Racona Nova
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Posts: 4771


There is no good or evil....there's only power!


« Reply #3 on: June 22, 2018, 07:33:45 PM »

That should work. As I said, you might want to change the main resistor to a 1000mA BuckPuck as well. It provides better current control and battery behaviour. Also, you don't have any colour fading when you use a BuckPuck. Resistors tend to change the colour once the batteries are critically low. BuckPucks regulate the power so that the colour is maintained until the saber shuts down.

However, you probably need to resistor the red a bit since it's only 700mA max. current where all other dies (G, B, W) can run with a max of 1000mA.
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Sig by Master Nero
Phantasm v3 LE (Obs v3) - AB w/ FoC AS---Manticore (Obs v3) - BR w/ FoC AS (QD)---Archon v2.1 (Obs v3) - RGBW Emerald

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