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Author Topic: aviation plug for LED module swapping  (Read 5550 times)
chalion
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« on: July 15, 2018, 12:49:03 PM »

Just a thought after watching some led strip light builds. Has anyone tried using 2/4/6 pin aviation GX16 Metal Chassis Connector Sockets for attaching led modules for quick swapping of colors? I've used JST connectors for a couple saber mods and was designing a pixel blade saber and just had the idea for led module connection.

I've 4 pin plugs on order and can see how I can mod up an led with the plug to make it one system connection so the wiring won't be able to be damaged. Also thinking of changing how the battery pack connects so the long wire in my stunt saber build doesn't break. I've used pvc pipe to hold my 4-AAA packs rigid in my un-modded stunt Initiate v4's, but am unsatisfied with this because the wires still can break when the batteries need replacing.

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Madness
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« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2018, 06:02:00 AM »

No reason that should not work just make sure you keep the resistor on or your LEDs will die faster. Can't wait to see it.
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Death Cyborg
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« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2018, 06:05:05 AM »

That sounds like a cool idea.
Would you need to change the resistance for different colors though ?

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk

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Infinit01
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« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2018, 03:26:21 PM »

I’m intrigued.  Really want to see it in action
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chalion
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« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2018, 05:11:48 PM »

I'm having a tough time trying to figure out how to set the plug/plugs into my hilt. They're smaller than I envisioned so i'm looking for creative ideas on how to do this. Right now, i'm thinking of using 2 plugs, one for power/switch connection, the 2nd for power to the LED. I may have to mock up a pvc hilt from 1 inch pvc - the led fits loosely in this, with 1/2 inch pvc to hold the plugs, end to end, with a minimum of wiring between the 2. I want the plugs rigid in the hilt, so the led and battery will slot into the hilt without excess movement. I may have to also forgo the US batteries in lieu of a 18650 instead.

Here's a couple pics for scale:

  Initiate v4 hilt at the pommel end, with the fat end of the plug sitting in it

  The fat end of the plug sitting on the end of 1/2 inch pvc

Next biggest headache is the power switch; with the switch being mid-hilt, I cannot fit the plugs in. I may have to replace the standard av momentary switch with a micro switch in a flush mount.



If anyone wants to throw suggestions out, i'm all ears. I'll listen to any advice I can get.
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chalion
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« Reply #5 on: July 23, 2018, 01:30:49 AM »

I was going to start playing with soldering the connections today, but Gaia decided not to let me. I just got power @ 8:45pm, but I did some work on the plugs, removing the locking ring and hollowing out the pvc to fit the main ring of the plug. Also going to notch a pvc end cap to fit on the battery pack to make it a chassis so it's plug and play. Same with the LED module, but I may be using a 3/4" pvc cap for that to help gap the emitter side.


I've been noticing that some of the sabers made by US are standardized with the battery/soundcard chamber, so they can accept Chassis of a sort; some are not.

Initiate v4, Aeon v4, Electrum Wind & Azure Reaper have standardization, about 4 1/2" inside the hilt before a ring stop before the switch.



Dorinian, Lost Gray and Manticore do not. They are smooth chambered all the way to the LED module. I don't have examples of other hilts to see if they have the ability to use a chassis.

I would much prefer the stop for a chassis and LED module. Sabers without these would not work with a chassis because it would allow the switch and wiring to be damaged easily. I may make some stops in my other hilts that are lacking them to all my hilts are the same, maybe using pvc and some sort of glue or adhesive.

More thoughts. I may in the future buy blank hilts and saw them apart to make hilt sections for modification. The only way I can think of to make this work is snap locks with 90 degree turns instead of threads that are used for pommels and some emitters.

Sorry if I keep adding a list to the forums, but i'm also using the posts for references to help keep my ideas in check.
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Infinit01
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« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2018, 11:42:24 AM »

Looks good so far, Chalion.  Any updates?
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chalion
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« Reply #7 on: July 23, 2018, 10:15:56 PM »

From what I can see, my first ideas won't work.  For the battery pack I can make work, but the modular LED connection it's much more difficult. The standard home depot pvc won't work. It's not uniform across the entire length and the walls are too thick. It gets stuck in the hilt. I'm thinking of making a 3 part chassis; Battery compartment, switch compartment and led compartment. The switch compartment would be part of the hilt and non-removable. The heat sink on the LED has a center hole, that I may be able to sink a screw into.



It's 6 sided, so i'm wondering if there's some kind of pin that is made to fit that. The end in the pic stays much cooler than the LED end, so epoxy should be ok. Tri-cree LED Modules would be a bigger problem since there's 6 wires pigtailed into 2. Makes using the plug I have tougher.

As I noted in my post yesterday, some hilts have an inner ridge, which I can use as a stop. Several others I have this is missing, so everything can fall out of the hilt.  This non-standardization makes using a chassis harder.
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Infinit01
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« Reply #8 on: July 23, 2018, 10:42:35 PM »

From what I can see, my first ideas won't work.  For the battery pack I can make work, but the modular LED connection it's much more difficult. The standard home depot pvc won't work. It's not uniform across the entire length and the walls are too thick. It gets stuck in the hilt. I'm thinking of making a 3 part chassis; Battery compartment, switch compartment and led compartment. The switch compartment would be part of the hilt and non-removable. The heat sink on the LED has a center hole, that I may be able to sink a screw into.



It's 6 sided, so i'm wondering if there's some kind of pin that is made to fit that. The end in the pic stays much cooler than the LED end, so epoxy should be ok. Tri-cree LED Modules would be a bigger problem since there's 6 wires pigtailed into 2. Makes using the plug I have tougher.

As I noted in my post yesterday, some hilts have an inner ridge, which I can use as a stop. Several others I have this is missing, so everything can fall out of the hilt.  This non-standardization makes using a chassis harder.

Geez, talk about challenges that you’re experiencing.  I salute you since it doesn’t seem like an easy project to partake given that it is all learning as well. 
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chalion
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« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2018, 12:34:01 AM »

Rather learn what I need with modding my Initiate v4 & Aeon v4 empty hilts this way, instead of, say, my Dorinian or Manticore  with their diamond controllers.

To make  my chassis work, I needed to buy new tools. I should have them by the weekend, which gives me time to brainstorm other options I want to look into, say,  sectioning my existing hilts. Not sure what the threading used for MHS emitters/pommels by Ultra sabers though. May also change the switch type from AV/guarded switches to SPST, micro switch, or maybe a servo switch. I was looking into magnetic switches, but those are too fragile to use in my estimation.

I may also alter a AV switch to make it push in, 1/4 turn lockable instead of hot gluing or threading the switch hole. Both of those options negate the chassis I am thinking of, since with a chassis you can't get inside the hilt afterwords.
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chalion
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« Reply #10 on: July 29, 2018, 12:26:26 AM »

Of course this attempt didn't work. The PVC fell apart. This project is getting to be real annoying. Going to put it aside for now and do more research for new ideas, maybe use nylon screw and stand-offs to help gap and hold parts firm together.  Was watching a TCSS you tube video about their chassis builds but most of the parts they use are out of stock most of the time. I really want to use the aviation 4 pin plugs though, since I detest the loose wires inside an aluminum tube.

I'll revisit this maybe next weekend.
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Infinit01
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« Reply #11 on: July 29, 2018, 03:15:43 PM »

You did give it a go ahead though, Chalion. I have much respect for that and you’re still not giving up.  Have a point for your efforts and thinking outside the box
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chalion
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« Reply #12 on: July 30, 2018, 12:39:31 AM »

I'm getting an idea why saber makers do what they do. Saber internals like how US does it is understandable now. It must radically lower the cost of the saber and there's a sort of standardization in this.

I figure I could have purchased a couple Diamond sabers with what i've spent on this experiment already...............or a 3d printer, of the cheaper kind.
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Infinit01
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« Reply #13 on: July 30, 2018, 12:51:31 PM »

Wow, I didn't realize it was that costly
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chalion
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« Reply #14 on: August 01, 2018, 04:39:39 PM »

I almost wish I could go a few years back in time.....................when I was working in a machine shop with CNC machines, HAAS Pattern maker, standing drill press and a lathe. Making a chassis from polypropylene, acrylic and garolite would have been childs' play. But this is now and I no longer have that access, so i've been experimenting with different materials; pvc, plastic pre-cut discs, nylon standoffs etc.

The aviation plugs will work, but cutting, drilling, etc with non-powered hand tools is quite the experience.

I have to remember to get some gorilla-glue and epoxy.


I watched an interesting video on Ytube showing an AV (non-illuminated) switch that is not soldered in. Instead the switch can be removed and changed out. I so want to attempt this, but i'll play with that in pvc to see how viable it is.
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