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Author Topic: aviation plug for LED module swapping  (Read 389 times)
chalion
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« Reply #15 on: August 08, 2018, 05:43:59 PM »

3rd chassis design failed. The construction worked, but there's not enough space between the switch and led module to work, at least with my abilities.

I wanted to make a slide in battery holder(no wires), a switch coupler section, then a led module plug in, but the mod-up I tried just doesn't work, especially with the av or guarded switches used by the typical saber builders. I would have to grind off some of the threads on the switch to make it push in, turn 45 to lock in, and not solder the wires to the switch. Major headache there.

I experimented with a chassis system from the other known shops, that were made to work with UltraSabers. They do work, but there's still loose bundles of wires to play with all of them, so they all have the tendency to break when moved a lot (to say, remove to recharge or change batteries).  Quite annoying. But the only way I can see my project going any further is to design and build my own unique saber hilts. Not going to happen.

Going to end this as a failure, on my part. Just can't think past the problems I see here.
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chalion
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Force Alignment: 22
Posts: 121


« Reply #16 on: August 13, 2018, 03:36:43 PM »

Ordered several sets of 18650 button style batteries and holders. I'm able to move forward with the battery chassis as in a stunt saber there is ample room. Tempted to put in a recharge port, as several saber crafters have innovative ideas on how to mount them in their chassis, but i'll take this in steps instead of one big bite.

Variations in how US hilts are made make the rest of my modular chassis design not feasible. The internal diameters between the Aeon v4 & Initiate v4 are not the same in the switch area to the LED module. To the eye, they look the same, but using a micrometer the difference is about .3mm. This is not much of an issue when using wires to connect the battery - switch - led module, but a pre-sized chassis that works in one hilt will not work in another.

Aeon v4 has 3-3/4" battery compartment. Initiate v4 has the same, both 1-1/4" diameter. The top of both sabers, where the blade goes in, both have the same depth, about 4-1/2" from the flush top of the emitters, but the Aeon stops just at the switch (a small ridge there), whereas the Initiate v4 stops beyond the switch hole. This means there's more room in the Aeon v4 (since it's a longer hilt) 5" from the emitter to the bottom of the switch hole vs 4-1/4" for the Initiate v4. Note: the Aeon v4 neck(switch area) is where it narrows down, a couple of hairs more than the Initiate does.

Going forward, if I reconsider making a modular chassis to run thru-out a hilt, I would have to use the Aeon v4. Even with the reduced diameter in the switch area, the overall length of the hilt would allow more room for the plugs I want to use.



P.S.

Yes, I keep coming back to this. I really want to see this thru, but I keep hitting problems. As of now i'm considering contracting out my hilts to a machine shop to have them mill the switch areas of both to uniform dimensions. Maybe chop them each into 3 parts and thread them. But this takes the work out of my hands.
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chalion
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Force Alignment: 22
Posts: 121


« Reply #17 on: August 14, 2018, 01:49:10 PM »

Got the batteries, but ordered the wrong holders. oops. Wasn't going to play with solder till the weekend anyway, but makes it harder to plan out the frame.
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Infinit01
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Gray within the light


« Reply #18 on: August 14, 2018, 01:57:26 PM »

Keep us updated, Chalion.  Have another point for your consistency and passion to get this done.
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chalion
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Force Alignment: 22
Posts: 121


« Reply #19 on: August 15, 2018, 02:52:25 PM »

Got the battery holders. They're actually smaller than the one I had on hand, plus the plastic is more flexible, so it's easier to cut/drill/melt. Added bonus, it has a screw hole for a mount in the center, plus 2 tab slots if I had a clip in surface mount. The gauge wire used is about 30, which is thinner than even US sabers uses, so i'll probably have to replace them, maybe with some 12 gauge.



 In the lower right pic, I was able to move the + wire to the left and make a hole to push the - wire on the right. Trying to decide on if I want to cut down a pvc housing to fit around the top and make a hole to slot in the 4 pin connector, or figure out a harness/frame to go around the battery holder. Maybe even some wall mount shelf mounts with a hole to fit the end of the plug. Sounds like I need another trip to the hardware store...........
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chalion
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Force Alignment: 22
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« Reply #20 on: August 18, 2018, 07:43:36 PM »

Trying different glues/epoxy on the battery packs to see what holds the best with pvc, acrylic discs, plastic discs and nylon stand offs. JB weld epoxy for plastic seems to be holding well, but gave me a migraine even when well ventilated. Had to put off soldering the wires since the glue testing started making me ill. Ordered 20 gauge wire because the 4 pin plug wouldn't work with the heavier wire I had wanted to use with the battery holders.

Also the battery packs for the AAA's and AA's have what look like vent holes in the ends, where the springs are mounted. May try to thread the holes so I can use machine screws to hold 1.25 inch plastic discs on the end, for stunt sabers, if the glue doesn't hold up to my satisfaction.
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Infinit01
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Force Alignment: 297
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Gray within the light


« Reply #21 on: August 18, 2018, 08:06:30 PM »

Thanks for the update, chalion. Are these US battery holders or just some third party generics?  Are you going to do any mods to make sure that the batteries donít pop out when contacted or dropped?  Thatís the issue I have with my sound sabers and a workout around was wrap the batteries in electrical tape but thatís just temporary since they do heat up
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chalion
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Force Alignment: 22
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« Reply #22 on: Yesterday at 07:53:28 PM »

I do have many 4-AAA & 2-AA battery holders that are 3rd party. Right now, it's just the 18650 battery holders i'm trying out. I created a mock-up to dry fit in my Aeon v4 & initiate v4 hilt (shown below). Fits well in both hilts.



I'll probably need to change the design though, since there's no way to idiot proof it yet. I probably will use standoff posts and screws to anchor the lower disc to the holder and make it so the battery is secured AND make it so the chassis can't be installed wrong.

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Infinit01
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Gray within the light


« Reply #23 on: Yesterday at 08:28:20 PM »

The mock up looks good there, chalion. Canít wait to see the prototype working
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