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Author Topic: Best hilt for contact sword?  (Read 4583 times)
UberDave
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« on: July 29, 2018, 01:30:59 PM »

I want to get a lightsaber for flow.  I'd like to try doing some contact moves, but I dont really know what the best hilt for that is. I can tell from the pictures which ones would be bad because of physical design, but I cant tell which hilts are best weight/balance wise.  I think you would ideally want the balance point of the blade to be closer to the middle of the hilt, but maybe someone with contact experience has some other advice.  Anyone know what the hilt might be best for me?
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AstraVlad
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« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2018, 11:30:05 AM »

Hello!

What does it mean "contact moves"? I do not do flow, only duels, so this term is totally unknown to me and I'm curious to know more.
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Greywolf
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« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2018, 01:58:58 PM »

Our forum is full of examples for contact work Wink :

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=34459.0

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=33125.0

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=32124.0

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=37740.0
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AstraVlad
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« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2018, 09:17:20 AM »

Thanks! I never thought it is a special term for that stuff.
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Samhain138
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« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2018, 06:02:55 PM »

I use a v4 Dominix or aeon and a Flamberge pommel personally for the few contact moves I do.  Enso uses a modified v2 Dominix staff with like rubber tubing on the end as a contact staff.  I’m not sure what DC has been using, but he was using some v3 initiates covered in grip tape.


I’m able to angel roll the v4 dom with the Flamberge pommel pretty reliably.  I can fishtail it too, but my move set isn’t that diverse when it comes to contact spinning.  That said, it still doesn’t behave anything like my fire sword.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE7JJNmGF34" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE7JJNmGF34</a>
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UberDave
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« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2018, 07:38:46 PM »

That looks great!  I'm probably not going to do anything to much crazier then the stuff you're doing so that's great.  I was thinking that the best hilts would have been a dominix/aeon, or maybe a sentinel or liberator.  I never even thought about the pommels though  I'm actually new to this whole saber thing so I'm still figuring out how it all goes together.
   So the pommels can just be screwed on to the bottom of any light saber?  If that one is still not ideal with that flamberge pommel, would it be possible to just screw any weighted thing onto the bottom of the sword?  Maybe I could MacGyver something a little heavier together to get the weight just right.
  It would be really cool if ultrasaber developed one specifically for this.
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Samhain138
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« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2018, 01:02:05 PM »

If we’re talking a stunt setup you could probably stick a roll  of quarters inside but you shouldn’t have to.  V2 sabers will not be able to use different pommels, but all the rest should be interchangeable, and many pommels can be bought seperately.  It’s just my opinion that that’s a good setup for the task at hand, I have done contact moves with  variety of sabers but that one is very reliable.  Anything with more weight toward the pommel should do the trick though.
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UberDave
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« Reply #7 on: July 31, 2018, 05:49:41 AM »

Thanks for the advice.  I assume you use a mid grade blade to keep the weight down?  What size blade would you recommend?
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Samhain138
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« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2018, 09:55:13 AM »

Yeah midgrade works well,  I started with a 32 and moved to a 36.
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UberDave
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« Reply #9 on: August 02, 2018, 05:38:39 AM »

So I got my ultrasaber package today.  I got 4 grab bags blades which ended up with an aeon v4, dominix v4, aeon v2 le, and a dark apprentice.  I really like the aeon v2 the most, but I know the pommel on that one isn't MHS compatible.  So my question is, how hard would it be to do something like an angel roll with a basic Aeon V2?  Is it impossible?  If it's not I'll just stick with the dominix v4, it's just that I dont like the color it came in.
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Samhain138
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« Reply #10 on: August 02, 2018, 07:16:02 AM »

I'm pretty sure I've done it with a v2 before.  It just takes getting a feel for it.  Try the down the arm behind the back catch a few times before you commit to the full roll.  All the stuff I said before was just a suggestion on a saber I know will perform contact moves reliably.  You can do them with just about anything if you're willing to keep at it.
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UberDave
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« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2018, 09:16:34 PM »

So I've been spinning with my new sentinel V4 with a dark war glaive pommel.  I stuffed pommel full of quarters to move the balance point down to the bottom of the first choke point.  It feels pretty good.  But now after dropping it a few times I'm wondering what the durability is like on this thing.  Should I be worried about dropping it a lot?
  It is only a stunt saber and I have created a little foam pocket to keep the battery pack from moving around too much inside. But what about the LED?  How worried should I be about that breaking on drops?  I know people complain that ultrasabers doesnt uses chassis, but is that more of a worry for sabers with sound or is that also a concern for stunt sabers.
  The reason I ask this is there is a prototype saber made just for contact I can get for a reasonable price.  They say it has a chassis for internals, but i dont know if that means just for the battery or for the LED as well. I already have this Ultrasaber and I love the color and everything about the looks, but I also dont want to break it.  Do you think the stunt sabers are durable enough for repeated drops as is, or should I invest in something built for contact spinning?
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Samhain138
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« Reply #12 on: August 10, 2018, 09:46:40 PM »

Well we can’t really discuss other products here other than US Sabers.  Drops will certainly break the battery packs.  Connections can even pop loose from that sort of thing too.  I’d advise caution, I practiced with one I broke and then moved on to hilts with goodies inside.
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UberDave
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« Reply #13 on: August 10, 2018, 09:59:53 PM »

Battery packs can be changed pretty easily and inexpensively though cant they?  I have tried to pad the battery pack best o could though.  The LED is what I'm worried about breaking because those are expensive.  Is that something I should worry about?
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Samhain138
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« Reply #14 on: August 10, 2018, 10:09:20 PM »

Battery packs can be changed pretty easily and inexpensively though cant they?  I have tried to pad the battery pack best o could though.  The LED is what I'm worried about breaking because those are expensive.  Is that something I should worry about?

Never had an led break.  I believe they use a plastic lense though I'm not certain.  The battery packs are pretty cheap and easy to repair.
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