LED emitter color vs silver emitter with gel filters

[Steepcurve]

I have received two mystery box lightsabers that I love.... except the color.  They both came red.  I am considering sending them in and having the LED emitters changed.  I could change them to specific colors (namely orange and green), or I could change them to silver and use filters.  I can say that filters aren't doing much with red LEDs!  I'm quite sure that is because they are emitting mostly red wavelength light, and therefore, there isn't much else to filter for.

So, my question is this:  How is the intensity of the color in the blade of a dedicated color LED compared to a sliver LED emitter with gel filters (like Lee)?  If you had a choice, would you go silver and use gel filters, or choose the LED emitter color of your dreams?

Thanks!

LTK

[Infinit01]

The colored disk will be a very washed out dimmed color than a solid LED color.  Lee filters gives out a more darker color than the colored disks and some colors are really close to the LEDs however, when compared next to the actual LED, they're pretty dim as well but colors like yellow and orange (I think), looks really good with Lee filters and the AS blade.  Also the LED colors will be pretty bright from emitter to the end versus the filters where you can tell that it tapers off.  Now, the Tri-Cree are vibrant from emitter to tip and brings out the brightness of the color so there's also that option.

Here are examples with the colored disks
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=2346.0


Here's examples with the Lee filters. You can flipped through the pages to find other colors on there

http://saberforum.com/Themes/Dark-f/images/post/xx.gif

You can also order Lee filters below but I recommend ordering both books since they have different variety of colors if you're going this route.

https://shop.leefiltersusa.com/Swatch-Book-Designers-Edition-SWB.htm

I love my AS blade and I play around with the colors but if you want a really dark color, it's best to just order that color. If you order the AS with switching filters around and not being too anal about being exactly like the LED counter parts, then go AS with the filters.  To me, there's a ton of colors from both Lee filter swatch books that are closely matched to US colors but I really wanted the AS blade and not just  to match an exact color either.  

Hope this helps and welcome to the forum.

[scifidude79]

If you had a choice, would you go silver and use gel filters, or choose the LED emitter color of your dreams?

Personally, I'm a fan of just doing single colors per saber. It gives the saber more character, in my opinion. Though, I do have some RGB sabers, and I have a silver saber with a set of those color discs that Ultasabers sells. They're not bad, but they're also not great and I usually just keep the silver color in that saber. (they were cheap)

But, you've got to go with what works for you. If you want the ability to change colors without the expense of an RGB setup, definitely spring for the white LED and gel filters. I understand you can get some really good colors with those.

[chalion]

From US, I have more RGBW led sabers than anything else. Both Emerald and diamond cards. I just like the versatility. Course the option costs alot more, so it limits the number of sabers I can buy. I'm not a fan of color discs, because it's something else I would need to keep track of and i'm not the most dexterous person these days and i'd probably lose some of them.

Diamond card, in my opinion, is the best thing made for sabers, since you have many sound banks and the colors can be customized for each and switched on the fly. Plus, if you solder and like to tinker with your saber, there are extra connections on the board to allow accent lights to be added.

[Edon Bluewolf]

Not sure what models you have but you can save a lot of money by installing quick disconnects yourself if possible.

Otherwise depending on the sabers you got it may cost just as much to send back and do the new LED installs as just buying whole new sabers, especially if they are stunt setups.  Send customer service an email asking for pricing details.  You will have to pay shipping there and back and then I believe it is a $50 per saber labor fee just to open it up, the LED and anything else will be extra on top of that.

Filters are never going to be as good as straight up LED colors of your choosing (except yellow, Adegan Silver with yellow filter in my opinion is a cleaner yellow than the mixed LED version and still very bright).

[Infinit01]

Personally, I'm a fan of just doing single colors per saber. It gives the saber more character, in my opinion. Though, I do have some RGB sabers, and I have a silver saber with a set of those color discs that Ultasabers sells. They're not bad, but they're also not great and I usually just keep the silver color in that saber. (they were cheap)

But, you've got to go with what works for you. If you want the ability to change colors without the expense of an RGB setup, definitely spring for the white LED and gel filters. I understand you can get some really good colors with those.

Agreed, not all of my sabers will need an Emerald or Diamond controller. I do have ones that will be and are those; however, there are sabers that will remain one color while a handful will have QD to swap LEDs out.

From US, I have more RGBW led sabers than anything else. Both Emerald and diamond cards. I just like the versatility. Course the option costs alot more, so it limits the number of sabers I can buy. I'm not a fan of color discs, because it's something else I would need to keep track of and i'm not the most dexterous person these days and i'd probably lose some of them.

Diamond card, in my opinion, is the best thing made for sabers, since you have many sound banks and the colors can be customized for each and switched on the fly. Plus, if you solder and like to tinker with your saber, there are extra connections on the board to allow accent lights to be added.

That may work for you but to me, I have ones that are Emerald and diamonds, while the rest will be single colored and a handful having QDs.  Everyone's different along with their budget.

Not sure what models you have but you can save a lot of money by installing quick disconnects yourself if possible.

Otherwise depending on the sabers you got it may cost just as much to send back and do the new LED installs as just buying whole new sabers, especially if they are stunt setups.  Send customer service an email asking for pricing details.  You will have to pay shipping there and back and then I believe it is a $50 per saber labor fee just to open it up, the LED and anything else will be extra on top of that.

Filters are never going to be as good as straight up LED colors of your choosing (except yellow, Adegan Silver with yellow filter in my opinion is a cleaner yellow than the mixed LED version and still very bright).

This.

[DarthBoneTD]

I personally like AS blades with gel filters. The key is to find the right transparency with the color your looking for. Most filters over 30% transparency will be washed out by the LED, and most under 10% will just be to dark. There is almost a perfect (not always exact) color match to most colors US offers, it just takes some playing around. Besides the aforementioned LEE filters also try to get your hands on a Roscolux swatch book, they can be bought from Amazon.

And as Edon said if you don't want to do filter's, installing QD's is the next best option, then order the color LED you prefer.

[Steepcurve]

Thanks everyone, for your input. 

A quick disconnect sounds good, but I'm not sure I have the right kind of hilts for that.  My sabers in pictured in the link below.  All of them are mystery box, and we added the wheel and  different pommels to the two with sound. 

The gold and silver one (which I believe is an Apprentice) has basic sound, and it's red but I would prefer green.  The black one (which i think is a Dark Standard) has premium sound, and a red blade.  I would prefer orange - but I'm wondering if silver would be best, with filters.

The picture with the two sabers in it are  two soundless sabers  (so if moving leds around isn't a big deal, I have at least one blue emitter).

https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-P3t82H

So, this is what we have to work with.  Would the quick disconnect option work with either Apprentice or the Dark Standard?  Is it necessary that the emitter end screw off the hilt?

I'm also trying to understand how the switch fits into the scenario.  Wouldn't it have to come out in order to slide the LED out if it slides out the bottom of the saber?  I'm willing to try altering them myself, but I want to make sure its a doable thing.  Youtube videos weren't much help, as there seemed to be so much diversity.  So, with my scenario, with the switch type that I have, how hard do you think it would be to manage the LED changes myself, and possibly install a quick connect?

I tried to post the pictures here directly, but could not find a way to make the forum read them from their location.  Is there a trick to that?

[For Tyeth]

Hi Steepcurve,

I'll send you a PM with instructions on how to post pictures (so we don't hog the thread!)

[scifidude79]

Those hilts definitely don't take quick disconnects (JST connectors) very well. I tried once in a Sentinel V4 to add them. That's about the same size as your biggest saber there, the Dominix LE V4. The connectors didn't do well, they got "piled up" around the switch and made it hard to get the rest of the electronics in. I finally wound up removing them and straight soldering the wires together. The other sabers you have are the Aeon V2, Apprentice LE V4 and Dark Standard Issue, and they all have less internal space than that Dominix LE V4 does. With those type of hilts, a different color changing option, such as a RGB setup with the different switches (not available on all hilts) or an Emerald board are your best bet. And, of course, white LEDs and filters.

Mostly, your MHS hilts with removable emitters do well with the QDs. That's because, not only is the emitter removable, but the main body is a straight tube with 1.25" inner diameter all the way down. I did QDs in my Consular, and they work great. That's why Ultrasabers usually only offers them in hilts with removable emitters.

[Infinit01]

Those hilts definitely don't take quick disconnects (JST connectors) very well. I tried once in a Sentinel V4 to add them. That's about the same size as your biggest saber there, the Dominix LE V4. The connectors didn't do well, they got "piled up" around the switch and made it hard to get the rest of the electronics in. I finally wound up removing them and straight soldering the wires together. The other sabers you have are the Aeon V2, Apprentice LE V4 and Dark Standard Issue, and they all have less internal space than that Dominix LE V4 does. With those type of hilts, a different color changing option, such as a RGB setup with the different switches (not available on all hilts) or an Emerald board are your best bet. And, of course, white LEDs and filters.

Mostly, your MHS hilts with removable emitters do well with the QDs. That's because, not only is the emitter removable, but the main body is a straight tube with 1.25" inner diameter all the way down. I did QDs in my Consular, and they work great. That's why Ultrasabers usually only offers them in hilts with removable emitters.

This.  Rule of thumb is removable emitter equals being able to replace the LED with QDs and those without, normally can't.

[tx_tuff]

I have put a QD in a Sentinel without any issues, agree it is not as easy but it can be done.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

[scifidude79]

I have put a QD in a Sentinel without any issues, agree it is not as easy but it can be done.

Ah, OK. What are your internals like? I think I'd have been OK, but I put one of those ginormous 18650s in mine, along with a chassis and soundboard, etc. That left little "wiggle" room. I was trying to have the whole sound setup removable, so there were QDs for everything around where all of that was, and it just didn't work. But, I still don't think I'd even want to do them on a stunt. Just my opinion.

[chalion]

You've located the problem with QD and custom internals. Lack of room, especially with the long runs of cables.  A modular hilt system would make it easy. 1 long tube like US sabers makes it much tougher to mod. I've been trying, off and on, for about 3 months to make a system to remove those long cables but so far no luck. Tempted to cut up my empty hilts to make life easier, just the will is just not there.

[scifidude79]

You've located the problem with QD and custom internals. Lack of room, especially with the long runs of cables.  A modular hilt system would make it easy. 1 long tube like US sabers makes it much tougher to mod. I've been trying, off and on, for about 3 months to make a system to remove those long cables but so far no luck. Tempted to cut up my empty hilts to make life easier, just the will is just not there.

You're telling me. I can't even fit an 18650, board and speaker using MHS holders into my Prophecy V3. It's too long of a setup for the electronics chamber.