Complete DIY (empty hilt)

[D4RTH N1H1LU5]

So I am considering buying an empty show saber hilt from the other guys, and would like to make it a complete show saber with ultrasaber components. However, I have no idea what to buy and where to start. Additionally, the hilt itself from the other guys is fairly thin, any suggestions for fortification? One more thing, on this hilt, there is a detachable greebly, where a covertec recharge port can be installed, but i would like to add a covertec wheel instead and the hole for the greebly is not screw size.

Any help is much appreciated, thank you!

[Rapine]

Inner diameter will be your largest concern.  That and length.   Check specs before laying out funds is all....


If you don't intend to add or hook-up a recharge port, then you could just glue it on.  Krazy glue, or epoxy, or something...

Also, I'm moving this thread to the "Customization" section.  You'll most likely get a lot more input there, D4RTH N1H1LU5.

[imgumby001dammit]

You’ll probably be better off buying a US hilt body and getting MHS compatibles from TCSS. That way you can build something unique to you, but it will all fit together and work properly. Once you have built a couple and feel like you can adequately modify and wire you could go more outside the box with a more random hilt choice and parts combo. Just a suggestion.

[Infinit01]

If you don't know where to even start, I wouldn't suggest buying parts and try assembling them together as they can appear to be pretty intimidating.  I would recommend buying either a grab bag or a mystery box so you can at least have a stunt saber to work and learn from.  Once you get something like a stunt saber, you can learn how to take it apart and put it back together before tackling something like adding sound to the saber or tackling a Frankensaber build.

I can tell you now that your biggest hurdle would be the different parts between UltraSabers and the other guys.  Prime example, other than the guarded swtich, UltraSabers' AV switches are 16mm in size while the other guys typically use 12mm.  Also, LED housing and heat sinks may be company specific so you have to pay attention to what they use.  Of course, you can always retro parts if you know about to make certain parts work. 

If you don't mind trying it out yourself then these are the typical parts:\

Emitter
LED
LED houstin
LED heatsink
main body
AV or guarded switch
Pommel
wires
battery pack/chassis
electronics other than a stunt set up (Just LED hilt and battery) so things like soundboard if any, resistors or Buck Puck, batteries like Lit-Ion and what sizes?  UltraSaber's premium soundboard, Emerald and Diamond sabers require 7.4 volts so the dual 14500 Lithium Ion batteries are a must.  The other guys use a single 18650 that outputs 3.7 volts which will work with their electronics without issue but won't power up any UltraSaber's higher end soundboard or LED drivers.

Then there's the blade: are you going for thick polycarbonate blade for dueling? Or are you going for the midgrade thick blade for better color, spinning, or show?  UltraSabers also have the UltraEdge and the regular blades as well

Resistors and BuckPuck: different colored LEDs need different resistors, otherwise, the life of the LED will be rather short since the LED itself can't handle that amount of current all at once. 

These are the few things that you need to know when putting a lightsaber together from scratch.  I may have missed some things but I'm sure that my fellow saber family will add to my list.

[Therion Jinn]

Another thing to consider, as mentioned above is the inside diameter
While a good number of emitters are designed for 1" blades, most of US electronics need around 1/25" in the hilt to allow enough room.
Add to that what's been said about using the other guys with Ultrasabers.
US and TCSS both use a standard called MHS, and their stuff can be used fairly well together.
The same cannot be said for US and some of the other guys

[Infinit01]

Another thing to consider, as mentioned above is the inside diameter
While a good number of emitters are designed for 1" blades, most of US electronics need around 1/25" in the hilt to allow enough room.
Add to that what's been said about using the other guys with Ultrasabers.
US and TCSS both use a standard called MHS, and their stuff can be used fairly well together.
The same cannot be said for US and some of the other guys

Therion is correct, The Premium soundboards may have issues fitting into the inner diameter of some of the other guys because of that.  Quite a bit of us who's done our own customization know what would fit and what wouldn't but that's due to our experiences with putting one together or tearing one down and rebuilding it.

[jray1993]

So guys I am wanting to add sound to my Dark liberator v3 saber. Would the obsidian 4 fit inside the body since it is concave?

[Edon Bluewolf]

If you can order it from the website with V4 sound, then yes it should fit.  Just checked the website as a mock order, and yes, therefore ipso facto a V4 will fit into a Dark Libby V3 because they start with an empty hilt and install V4 sound boards into it too...

[TR-77477]

I agree with whats been said already. I have modified many of my sabers externally but I am still new to the electronics. I would recommend getting a mystery box, You have the chance to get one with sound, and for 75$. This way you can practice removing the electronics and sound (if you get one) and playing with it. This way when you make a mistake, which you evidently will it wont kill your wallet. I am planning to do this exact thing soon. If it all ends in tears i will only be down 75$ and not close to 200+ for a fried board etc...

[MandaloriansPride]

I totally agree with everyone else. Start out with a Mystery Box or Grab Bag and modifying/dissecting those to start out. Between that and all of the tutorials on Youtube is how I started installing.