Wiring Diagram Help

[Kal-El_Kenobi1138]

Hey fellow knights,

I'm wiring a stunt saber but need help with the wiring diagram. I've searched all over here and other forums, but nothing. The parts I'm using consist of 4AAA batter pack, 4 pin buck puck, green light latching AV switch, proper resistor, and a white rebel LED. The only thing I've found is the pictures in this thread http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=19237.0 but for lack of better words I am electronics stupid and need more direct information with pictures of the switch pins and colors of what wires go where. Is there anyone out there who can help with this?

[Infinit01]

Here you go, try this:




Mods, if I'm not suppose to post this, let me know and I'll take it down.  Want to make sure that I'm follow forum rules. 

[Rapine]

Excellent Infinit.
+1

You COULD wire your switch before the puck, but be sure to use that resistor...Dynaohm?

[Infinit01]

Thanks, Rapine.  -1 back

[Kal-El_Kenobi1138]

Excellent Infinit.
+1

You COULD wire your switch before the puck, but be sure to use that resistor...Dynaohm?

If I wire it this way, will the buck puck as a resistor for the switch as well?

[scifidude79]

If I wire it this way, will the buck puck as a resistor for the switch as well?

No. All the switch does is open and close the circuit. No matter how much current is running through it, the switch behaves the same way.

[Rapine]

Correct.  The switch LED runs at a much lower voltage than your main LED would, so you have to add the resistor anyway.

I've historically always added the puck straight to the main LED though is all - after the switch.

[scifidude79]

Ultrasabers usually puts their resistors on the negative wires, I do that sometimes too. It doesn't really matter where on the circuit it is. For the puck, it makes sense to have it between the battery and switch, as that part of the hilt will have more space. In fact, I'd probably tape it to the battery holder to ensure it's not banging around inside by itself.

[Infinit01]

Ultrasabers usually puts their resistors on the negative wires, I do that sometimes too. It doesn't really matter where on the circuit it is. For the puck, it makes sense to have it between the battery and switch, as that part of the hilt will have more space. In fact, I'd probably tape it to the battery holder to ensure it's not banging around inside by itself.

What SFD said. That’s normally where I wore mine and place it at

[Rapine]

Indeed.  Me as well. 

I've never actually done a stunt - always used a board, so there's actually a pad for a switch leg on it.  That's why I saw it that way. 


Kal-El_Kenobi1138, you mentioned installing an illuminated switch.  Those are three pronged ones?  That diagram doesn't show that part.  You got it?

[Infinit01]

Indeed.  Me as well. 

I've never actually done a stunt - always used a board, so there's actually a pad for a switch leg on it.  That's why I saw it that way. 


Kal-El_Kenobi1138, you mentioned installing an illuminated switch.  Those are three pronged ones?  That diagram doesn't show that part.  You got it?

In my experience, an illuminated switch will have four prongs since the LED will have a positive and a negative dedicated to the LED. I’d hook one to a resistor and then it’s dedicated terminal while the other goes directly to its terminal.

[Rapine]

I've done many four pronged ones, but wasn't sure if the latching/illuminated were the same, or if they had a common/shared prong.

At any rate, you'll need to determine which leads/prongs are which.

I use an old battery pack, with normal alkaline AAs...and a resistor...to test them.  Then, as Infinit said, the two dedicated switch ones get wired as per that diagram, and the LED ones get resistored properly, and attached to your main LED power (pos and neg respectively).

[Infinit01]

I've done many four pronged ones, but wasn't sure if the latching/illuminated were the same, or if they had a common/shared prong.

At any rate, you'll need to determine which leads/prongs are which.

I use an old battery pack, with normal alkaline AAs...and a resistor...to test them.  Then, as Infinit said, the two dedicated switch ones get wired as per that diagram, and the LED ones get resistored properly, and attached to your main LED power (pos and neg respectively).

You’re correct, Rapine. I’ve seen an AV LED switch that had a shared negative before. It’s not as common but they do exist. The ones I’ve ever order have been four prong which makes for extra wiring in my opinion.

You’re smart to use an old battery pack for testing. I’ve order one myself for that purpose. Point incoming for bhttp://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz?VS=3.7;VF=3;ID=20eing so informative.

Kal_el, let us know if you have more questions. Depending on the LED color of the AV switch, a specific resistor will need to be used.  You’ll need to know the supplies voltage, find it’s forward voltage and current (mA), it runs on.

Here’s an example of a blue illuminated switch from TCSS with a forward voltage of 3.0V and runs at 20mA..

Let’s say my battery pack is 3.7 volts, I’ll plug it all into an LED calculator and get the following results:

39 ohm resistor with 1/8 w

You can see the results here
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz?VS=3.7;VF=3;ID=20

Typically from my experience, the following colors use 3.0 V and 20 mA:

Blue
Green
Purple
White

The following use 2.0 V at 20 mA:

Red
Orange
Yellow

Just make sure when you buy an AV illuminated switch, look for specs on forward voltage and current

[Rapine]

He mentioned a green one - and already having the right resistor (?)

If you use a variable ohm resistor (dynaohm), there's no worries. 

That's what I've always used for switches.   

[Kal-El_Kenobi1138]

This is what I'm talking about when getting confused because all of this just made it more so. I need a picture and probably one that has this https://www.ultrasabers.com/GetImage.ashx?maintainAspectRatio=true&Path=~%2fAssets%2fProductImages%2flayout.jpg in it so that I can wire it.