16mm AV switch bezel for UltraSaber hilts

[deevee2]

Does the bezel on TCSS' site work for UltraSaber empty hilts? Or is that for 1" hilts? I got an empty US hilt on the way and have all the parts (including a bezel from TCSS) but am unsure of what will fit since nothing has arrived yet. In case this doesn't fit, does anyone know what we can use?

[Infinit01]

16mm is 16mm so it should fit.  Keep in mind that US just hit glue the AV switch in there since all switch hikes are drilled in the middle of not, pretty close. With that said, threading on the AV and unthreading it is a pain and time consuming.

[deevee2]

Oh I'm not worried about the diameter, I'm talking about the bezels for the buttons. The ones that curve around the hilt so that it doesn't fit oddly.

https://www.ultrasabers.com/Bezel-for-illuminated-switches-P448.aspx

[scifidude79]

Yes, it will fit. Ultrasabers' hilt measurements are based on TCSS MHS V1.

[deevee2]

Yes, it will fit. Ultrasabers' hilt measurements are based on TCSS MHS V1.

Fantastic - just wanted to double check. Thanks!!

[scifidude79]

No problem at all.

[tx_tuff]

If it doesn't fit prefect you put sandpaper smooth side against the hilt while running the piece on the paper. Will give a fit like a glove fit.

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk

[tx_tuff]

16mm is 16mm so it should fit.  Keep in mind that US just hit glue the AV switch in there since all switch hikes are drilled in the middle of not, pretty close. With that said, threading on the AV and unthreading it is a pain and time consuming.

Threading it on may not be easy depending on the hilt but it is doing it right

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[scifidude79]

Excellent suggestion about the sandpaper, TX. I forgot that part.

Threading is a moot point on an Ultrasabers hilt. The holes aren't threaded. They're large enough to put the switch fully in. That's why they're hot glued. When I build sabers, I always wrap a bit of electrical tape around the switch threads and turn it into a press fit. I don't remember who suggested that (JediXIX or Lord Canterbury, most likely) when I was starting out building, but it's great. It makes them less of a pain to remove if you need to, and I have.

Also, make sure you don't directly heat your switches too long when removing them. I've ruined a few latching AV switches that way.

[deevee2]

Excellent suggestion about the sandpaper, TX. I forgot that part.

Threading is a moot point on an Ultrasabers hilt. The holes aren't threaded. They're large enough to put the switch fully in. That's why they're hot glued. When I build sabers, I always wrap a bit of electrical tape around the switch threads and turn it into a press fit. I don't remember who suggested that (JediXIX or Lord Canterbury, most likely) when I was starting out building, but it's great. It makes them less of a pain to remove if you need to, and I have.

Also, make sure you don't directly heat your switches too long when removing them. I've ruined a few latching AV switches that way.

That's a very interesting idea. I wasn't looking forward to using a small poker to tighten the nut. I might try that to see how well it holds.

Thanks for the tips on sanding as well!

[scifidude79]

If you're using a momentary switch, the locking nut may not even fit on with the bezel. The non lit ones are considerably shorter than the latching 16mm switches. I don't know about the ones with the LED inside, I don't use them. However, I have used the locking nuts on 12mm AV switches before and it's a royal pain. Plus, if I ever have to remove those, it's going to be an adventure.

[deevee2]

If you're using a momentary switch, the locking nut may not even fit on with the bezel. The non lit ones are considerably shorter than the latching 16mm switches. I don't know about the ones with the LED inside, I don't use them. However, I have used the locking nuts on 12mm AV switches before and it's a royal pain. Plus, if I ever have to remove those, it's going to be an adventure.

I saw on one video someone used the curved bezel on the inside which made it a lot easier to get a tight fit with the locking nut. But yeah it looks like some of the shorter AV switches won't reach, so might need to hunt around.

[Infinit01]

Threading it on may not be easy depending on the hilt but it is doing it right

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I don't disagree with you at all. It's just how US design the sabers without a removable switch section which makes for a challenge to remove and reinstall the switch when you're threading it is all I'm saying. It does beat trying to clean out the mess of hot glue inside the hilt though

[deevee2]

I don't disagree with you at all. It's just how US design the sabers without a removable switch section which makes for a challenge to remove and reinstall the switch when you're threading it is all I'm saying. It does beat trying to clean out the mess of hot glue inside the hilt though

I'm probably going to do the tape method for first few assemblies while I test things and then do the nut for final install.

[Infinit01]

while I test things and then do the nut for final install.

Buahahahahaha. Don't mind me, I just have a dirty mind