Can’t get flash on clash to work on obs lite

[imgumby001dammit]

Recently I purchased an RGBW led to upgrade my Dark Sentinel for flash on clash. After wiring my setup is all wrong, and flash on clash is not functioning. I wired it up as such; I kept in place the resistor that came with the CG led, I believe it’s 8ohm 3w. It seems high for a green, but I swear that’s what it says. I soldered a lead to the flash on clash pin on the board. All the pos wires are soldered together, with the red and blue neg together going to the black wire that was originally going to the led, and the neg from the green going to the FOC pin on the board. Clearly I’m doing this wrong, but I don’t know where. Is it my resistor? Should each led be on its own? Does FOC get “activated” somehow on the Obs lite board? I don’t think I blew anything up, so I’m pretty sure I can fix whatever’s wrong. Thanks everyone.

[scifidude79]

For starters, I highly doubt you pulled an 8 ohm resistor out of an Ultrasaber. That's massive overkill. Calculating for a Tri CREE XP-E2 in green with a 6V power supply, I'm getting a 2.7 ohm 3W resistor. I believe I've pulled resistors out of Ultrasabers that have been about that. Red requires a higher value than blue or green, and even that wouldn't have an 8 ohm.

So, as I understand it, your wiring is this:

-All 3 LED positives are soldered and then twisted together and soldered to a single wire that goes back to your battery. (or, the red wire that was originally on the Lite setup)

-The red and blue negatives are soldered, then those wires are soldered together and to either the main color post or the main color negative wire that came with the setup.

-The negative for the green is wired and that wire runs back to the FoC post on the board.

If that's the case, the wiring is correct. If any part of that seems wrong, then that could be where the issue lies.

As far as I know, all you have to do is wire that FoC and you'll have it, but I've never fooled with a Lite board before. When I added FoC to an Obsidian V4 setup that didn't have it, that's all there was to it.

[imgumby001dammit]

Does .8 ohm make more sense then? If the be the case, then I probably need a 2.x ohm in-line with the red, no? But, clearly it’s at least possible since I didn’t order it with FOC it may be turned off.

[scifidude79]

.8 ohm would be fine for a 3.7v power supply. I wonder if part of the number got rubbed of. It may have been 1.8 or 2.8 ohm at some point. I know I've pulled some resistors out of Ultrasabers where the numbers are unreadable.

As I said, I don't know enough about the Lite board.

[Infinit01]

For starters, I highly doubt you pulled an 8 ohm resistor out of an Ultrasaber. That's massive overkill. Calculating for a Tri CREE XP-E2 in green with a 6V power supply, I'm getting a 2.7 ohm 3W resistor. I believe I've pulled resistors out of Ultrasabers that have been about that. Red requires a higher value than blue or green, and even that wouldn't have an 8 ohm.

So, as I understand it, your wiring is this:

-All 3 LED positives are soldered and then twisted together and soldered to a single wire that goes back to your battery. (or, the red wire that was originally on the Lite setup)

-The red and blue negatives are soldered, then those wires are soldered together and to either the main color post or the main color negative wire that came with the setup.

-The negative for the green is wired and that wire runs back to the FoC post on the board.

If that's the case, the wiring is correct. If any part of that seems wrong, then that could be where the issue lies.

As far as I know, all you have to do is wire that FoC and you'll have it, but I've never fooled with a Lite board before. When I added FoC to an Obsidian V4 setup that didn't have it, that's all there was to it.

You are correct and the Obsidian Lite is just like the premium boards. You just wire the needs LED to that pin and wire that LED to a negative and it’ll work.

Gumby, did you tested your RGBW LED before install? I typically test all of mine before anything

[imgumby001dammit]

Here’s the rub, by blade color is blue, like real blue. I can’t see red in it at all. And yes, I checked every led before soldering. I made a sweet test setup with my last battery conversion. So, I guess I need to disassemble it all and go over it with a fine tooth comb. Bummer.

[Infinit01]

Here’s the rub, by blade color is blue, like real blue. I can’t see red in it at all. And yes, I checked every led before soldering. I made a sweet test setup with my last battery conversion. So, I guess I need to disassemble it all and go over it with a fine tooth comb. Bummer.

Check your soldering points where all positives meet, also the negative ones as well.  Try stripping the wires and resoldering them back

[imgumby001dammit]

Apparently, my colors aren’t mixed, and FOC doesn’t work because I blew the red, AND the green led’s. I’m guessing my forward voltage was too high for the red on the regular board side, and the additional voltage from the FOC pin added the kill shot to the green. So, how to prevent that with the next led? Additional 1 ohm on each individual pos wire? What’s done is done, I just don’t want to do it again.

[Infinit01]

Apparently, my colors aren’t mixed, and FOC doesn’t work because I blew the red, AND the green led’s. I’m guessing my forward voltage was too high for the red on the regular board side, and the additional voltage from the FOC pin added the kill shot to the green. So, how to prevent that with the next led? Additional 1 ohm on each individual pos wire? What’s done is done, I just don’t want to do it again.

Honestly, each LED should have it's own resistor.  So if the positives are being shared, use the resistor on the negative wires but don't solder them together. Separately, wire each negative to the battery

[imgumby001dammit]

Thx bub.

[Infinit01]

Thx bub.

You're welcome, brother.  It's all about cause and effect, you live and you learn as you go.  Keep up the good work and great questions, man!  Also, if you need help figuring out what each LED color needs as far as resistors go, let me know.

[imgumby001dammit]

As far as I know, red needs around 2.2 - 2.8 ohm. Blue and green - around 1- 1.5. I’m not sure about white. I don’t know when I’ll use white, but ya.

[scifidude79]

White is probably going to require the least amount of resistance. Those can be run at higher voltage than most colors.

[Infinit01]

White is probably going to require the least amount of resistance. Those can be run at higher voltage than most colors.

Agreed

[imgumby001dammit]

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