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Author Topic: what requirements for a lightsaber switch  (Read 332 times)
chalion
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« on: June 15, 2019, 01:16:23 PM »

I'm researching on how to build a lightsaber to my own specs. I'll most likely use a donor UltraSabers lightsaber (I have many stunts and some with different tier sound boards) and use the internals and a parts hilt, but I want to use a graflex clamp with either a micro switch or a hinge lever micro switch, but am unsure of the minimum voltage/amperage requirements for said switch.

The typical AV switch US uses (and most builders you can buy from) are basically the same with Max Switch Rating: 3A/250VAC. What I want to use is 0.1a/12 VDC. Would this overload and burn out with a Obsidian V4 or diamond controller? I've looked at the specs for both boards but they don't specify the requirements for the switch connection. Any help would be appreciated.
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Rapine
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« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2019, 02:44:09 PM »

A lightsaber switch handles 3amps?!

The 16mm AV switches I'm used to run at 20mA and like 2VDC.

Never seen an AC one.

A resistor is my first thought.

I truly don't intend to sound condescending, but I'm pretty sure each and every saber and saber component is DC.  Also, I've never heard of a board that runs any higher than 8vdc, so I'm not sure how you'd do a 12v one.

Look at the saber armory dot com.  I'll most likely catch a boatload of poodoo for that, but they just might have what you want.
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chalion
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« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2019, 05:00:57 PM »

Now you know why I asked. I'd much rather find out I wrote something idiotic, then make an idiotic mistake with electronics.

I don't know why the 5 sites I went to (not lightsaber vendors) all list the 16mm Anti Vandal Momentary switches at 3A 250VAC. Several of the lightsaber vendors that DO use mini or micro switches didn't list their power requirements either. Which is why I asked my questions.


I guess i'll be getting a multimeter and do some power meter tests on some of my lightsabers to see what levels i'd get.
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atron
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« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2019, 05:37:35 AM »

If you plan it to use it with a sound board you will probably be ok with almost any momentary (non-latching) switch you can find, for Obsidian/Diamond boards i think the switch pin basically just detects if you connect it to the battery minus and for how long, the actual power that feeds the board is through the battery+/- pins > this means no significant current goes through that switch. For switches usually the rating is max current at X voltage - the 3A at 250V AC means you can use it in an AC setup of up to 250V with a current of up to 3A (and you want to have these values larger than your predicted current); switches with led(s) built in (illuminated switches) also have a rating for the led(s), something like 20mA 6V DC(or 12V, or 24V).
Now that being said, you might have some problems with some switches (e.g. very large or very small ones) due to some of their other properties (some of which aren't even listed in the specs) like internal build structure which affects the resistance (the switch acts like a very small resistance) or the way it establishes the physical connection (affecting the de-bounce time) - maybe in other ways (you need to ask an electrical engineer for more details). To be 100% sure you need to ask the manufacturer of the board you are using or you need to actually test it with the board.
But, as I said, you will probably be fine with almost any momentary switch and as a general rule of thumb if you can choose between two switches similar in size/build and price Smiley but with different ratings, choose the one with higher ratings (more V or more A).

If you use it for a stunt or in another similar setup, with a latching / non-momentary switch then you need to take into account the current your setup draws (which in this case will pass through the switch). For example you need at least 6V at 2A to be on the safe side (a LED die usually draws 0.7-1A); but aim as high as you can get away with (cost/size/design wise) for the switch specs (more V or more A).
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chalion
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« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2019, 01:43:45 PM »

atron:

For the sound board set ups, that was my assumption that voltages/amps/overall power output was quite lower than the specs for the switches used.  But it does pay to be overly cautious with electronics, especially since I am using parts from a donor saber instead of getting the parts directly. I would hate to damage them and have to throw it out because of my carelessness.

Last time I had dealt with electronics was back in the early 80's in shop class. Since then, circuitry has gotten much smaller (and cheaper) so I knew there could be differences so I just wanted to be sure before I commited.
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