neocaster
Knight Apprentice
Force Alignment: 4
Posts: 30
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« on: January 16, 2020, 05:11:09 PM » |
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So I wanted to slide the whole assembly out of my hilt and the switch is glued-in. This seems to make it tough (impossible?) to empty my hilt.
Question 1: Is there anything I can do to free this mess from my current hilt electronics? Question 2: If I order a new saber, can I ask them not to glue all of that in, or would I have to buy an empty hilt and piece it together from there?
TIA! -Marc
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Racona Nova
Knight of the Obsidian Order
SaberForum.Com Moderator
Knight Commander
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There is no good or evil....there's only power!
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« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2020, 05:31:39 PM » |
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You have an AV switch? Those are always glued in. You could use a heat gun and carefully (!) heat the glue, unscrew the nut inside and then remove the switch. It's not easy, but possible. Why they do that...no idea.
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Sig by Master Nero Phantasm v3 LE (Obs v3) - AB w/ FoC AS---Manticore (Obs v3) - BR w/ FoC AS (QD)---Archon v2.1 (Obs v3) - RGBW Emerald
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neocaster
Knight Apprentice
Force Alignment: 4
Posts: 30
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« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2020, 06:32:51 PM » |
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You have an AV switch? Those are always glued in. You could use a heat gun and carefully (!) heat the glue, unscrew the nut inside and then remove the switch. It's not easy, but possible. Why they do that...no idea.
I was thinking that, but I have shrink-tube wires in a lot of that and I'm not sure how sensitive they'd be to heat Thinking I might start with a blow drier on high just to see how the glue reacts to just a little heat. If it fares better than what's around it, I'll probably take the leap.
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« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2020, 06:37:08 PM » |
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That sounds like a plan. IF you can, document what you do and post it, there are no doubt many who would be interested in seeing how it goes (like me!)
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Tazflyr
Knight Commander
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Posts: 707
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« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2020, 10:28:18 PM » |
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That sounds like a plan. IF you can, document what you do and post it, there are no doubt many who would be interested in seeing how it goes (like me!)
Yup, a short video would be great! (Even if it doesn't work, a video would be great---some of our greatest lessons can be learned from what DOESN'T work) Thanks!
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Aeon LE v4, Guardian Blue (Mystery Box) Dark Sentinel v5 (Emerald) The Fallen, Bane's Heart Grandmaster, Diamond SI Battle saber, SRD Dark Apprentice LEv4, Red
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When I die, don't let my wife sell my sabers & guitars for what I told her I paid for them, please.
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Ultra
Lord Commander
Administrator
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IN HOC SIGNO VINCES
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« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2020, 10:41:22 PM » |
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Why they do that...no idea.
So vibrations don't knock the nut loose, which will happen with a dueling saber after awhile. It was either that or locktite
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« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2020, 10:43:26 PM » |
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So vibrations don't knock the nut loose, which will happen with a dueling saber after awhile. It was either that or locktite That's what I suspected. :-) Thanks for confirmation!
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signature picture by DarthScrub Master Singer of the Mak'Tor
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Racona Nova
Knight of the Obsidian Order
SaberForum.Com Moderator
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There is no good or evil....there's only power!
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« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2020, 01:12:54 PM » |
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Makes sense...and great that you didn't use locktite Otherwise it would become even more difficult to remove the switch
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Sig by Master Nero Phantasm v3 LE (Obs v3) - AB w/ FoC AS---Manticore (Obs v3) - BR w/ FoC AS (QD)---Archon v2.1 (Obs v3) - RGBW Emerald
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Darth Andeddu
Knight Arbiter
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Posts: 276
DS points please :)
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« Reply #8 on: February 29, 2020, 09:06:59 PM » |
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So I wanted to slide the whole assembly out of my hilt and the switch is glued-in. This seems to make it tough (impossible?) to empty my hilt.
Question 1: Is there anything I can do to free this mess from my current hilt electronics? Question 2: If I order a new saber, can I ask them not to glue all of that in, or would I have to buy an empty hilt and piece it together from there?
TIA! -Marc
I got a Mystery Box Sentinel V5 stunt with an AV, and when I pulled the battery pack out and shined a flashlight inside the hilt, I saw what I would consider a.. copious... quantity of dried hot glue around the underside of the switch. Just saying that the heat gun option to soften the glue (when the glue was applied .. generously) .. well, it will take just that much more work to get that switch out
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Spectre, pro build, NEC Igniter 3, NPxl Grand Master, Azure, pro build, GHv3, NPxl Empress (dark), Pro ffie2.2, NPxl Dark Apprentice LE V5, Xenopixel core 30 fonts *woot* Sentinel LE V5, Xenopixel core, 30 fonts
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« Reply #9 on: February 29, 2020, 11:07:41 PM » |
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So vibrations don't knock the nut loose, which will happen with a dueling saber after awhile. It was either that or locktite Some blue loctite seems like a better choice. I've had such great success with that in all kinds of applications.
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Lover of the light side
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Darth Andeddu
Knight Arbiter
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Posts: 276
DS points please :)
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« Reply #10 on: March 01, 2020, 12:44:20 AM » |
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Some blue loctite seems like a better choice.
I've had such great success with that in all kinds of applications.
Agreed though in a production environment I’m thinking US is leaning toward hot glue as a quick way to secure an AV switch in a more or less slip fit hole . When a saber is returned for repairs I’d love to see how THEY remove an AV switch without sweating it out of the hole with heat guns .
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Spectre, pro build, NEC Igniter 3, NPxl Grand Master, Azure, pro build, GHv3, NPxl Empress (dark), Pro ffie2.2, NPxl Dark Apprentice LE V5, Xenopixel core 30 fonts *woot* Sentinel LE V5, Xenopixel core, 30 fonts
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« Reply #11 on: March 02, 2020, 03:02:35 PM » |
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Agreed though in a production environment I’m thinking US is leaning toward hot glue as a quick way to secure an AV switch in a more or less slip fit hole . When a saber is returned for repairs I’d love to see how THEY remove an AV switch without sweating it out of the hole with heat guns .
Just a hunch, but with all the soldering irons they have sitting around, I'd say they apply pressure to the button in the direction you want to go and heat up the hilt in the area around the button until it pops off. If it is low temp glue it'd pop off long before anything else is damaged.
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Lover of the light side
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firehand10k
Knight Commander
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« Reply #12 on: March 02, 2020, 06:52:56 PM » |
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I just use an X-acto knive to cut into the nearer edge of the glue, usually through the emitter end. Then a screwdriver to pry that open and start a released edge. Then I use long knows pliers or hobby forceps to pull and push and peel the glue off. The switch falls out after that.
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Arcinsaw
Knight Officer
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Gray Jedi (Dark/Light points accepted equally)
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« Reply #13 on: March 15, 2020, 08:25:35 PM » |
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A few dabs of isopropyl alcohol around the edges of the glob will loosen it to the point that tweezers or a small screwdriver can just pop it off
Sent from my Redmi Note 7 using Tapatalk
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This is the way.
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Darth Andeddu
Knight Arbiter
Force Alignment: -50
Posts: 276
DS points please :)
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« Reply #14 on: March 15, 2020, 09:22:09 PM » |
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A few dabs of isopropyl alcohol around the edges of the glob will loosen it to the point that tweezers or a small screwdriver can just pop it off
Sent from my Redmi Note 7 using Tapatalk
Ahh the solvent method! Excellent idea!
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Spectre, pro build, NEC Igniter 3, NPxl Grand Master, Azure, pro build, GHv3, NPxl Empress (dark), Pro ffie2.2, NPxl Dark Apprentice LE V5, Xenopixel core 30 fonts *woot* Sentinel LE V5, Xenopixel core, 30 fonts
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